What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

PuyallupJon · Jan 3, 2021

5465 said: ↑

Painted wheels satin black from scratched gloss black last night, re-sanded rings a few mins ago, tires go on today.
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what did you sand the rings with and do you then paint the rings with a clear coat or something to seal them up?

Ensemble88 · Jan 3, 2021

CmdrTrekk said: ↑

Sure thing! So I added on the switch because I wanted to be able to turn them off while normal driving in the city (or the summer where it's light until 9:30pm) and then on manually to use as a rock light or camping light. That added some complexity that is optional, but I think for the TW folks it's pretty useful. Here's a story in pictures.

So in MESO's instructions he uses a smaller trim tool to remove the door panel that's too flexible. If you have this one, use it, it's more rigid. You can run the tool right up against the pins and leverage them off the door much easier. It feels more natural and less like you're going to break something. Highly recommend this one. Be careful with the door handle and lock rods. I bent mine and had to bend it back. The trick with the GIANT ASS window switch plug in the inside middle is that it has a locking collar you have to squeeze from the inside and pull back. There's a lock mechanism inside of it I've never seen before, so when you go to plug it back in, watch how that lock works when the collar moves. You want the collar locked all the way open otherwise it won't plug back in.

I didn't have a helper, so a backpack and bungee cord worked great for keeping the side mirror on... You don't REALLY need it because it doesn't just fall out, but just in case. I thought about opening the window but later realized the window sinks all the way down to the speaker so it would be in the way. Be super super careful with those nuts inside those three holes that hold the mirror on. They really want to fall off into the door. I stuck wads of masking tape under mine and I've seen other people fashion toilet paper rolls into catchers. Look at the bolt on there because it tapers and the threading stops. So it's meant to let you lean the socket down to catch the bolt and pull it off carefully.

In the step where MESO talks about running the cord up through the door, cutting open the plastic and grabbing the cord to attach to the mirror, that's all totally unnecessary. Just unbolt your speaker, which weighs a few ounces, and you have full free access to the inside of the door. You can really easily push it up through the plastic and the right channel without cutting anything and maintaining the integrity of your waterproofing material.

MESO tells you to unplug these from the inside so you can manipulate the boot but doesn't explicitly say to just pull them all the way out into the hinge. I think it was implied though. It certainly makes it way easier because the boot needs to be straight and easy to manipulate if you're going to have a chance in hell of getting the thick new cord through it. DEFINITELY wrap the plug and cord in electrical tape like he suggests or it would've snagged and broken for sure. This is by far the hardest part and the instructions recommend patience and other tips that work.

The passenger side is easier because it has fewer wires in the boot so that took half the time. But still pull the plugs all the way out through the hole in the body. It's taken a few days for my cuticles to recover and there's still a cut on my finger but that's just how it goes.

If you're doing a console button (there are almost no instructions for the button) then take off the big chubby AC vent trim piece and the AC switch panel. Unplug everything and put it aside. You should have plenty of access now from the below-steering wheel cover to here. Say hello to any wiring from previous projects and if you're like me, you can untangle some of the rat's nest you might've created from previous wiring. You don't need to take anything else off. If you're doing the left side, then your life will be 100x easier (but MESO's custom pocket buttons panel were sold out).

You MUST ground your wires to metal, not plastic. There are two bolts on either side where all the OEM stuff is grounded. You can access this one through the ignition hole with a big ass extender, or in my case I had a huge power drill flexible extender. The MESO ground has an eyelet on it that just barely fits on this bolt but it fits enough. It'll bend and warp the thing but it's fine. You can screw it on with pliers and a drill until its flush with the washer. Then bolt this back into the other ground wires (that are in my case permanently affixed to that spot so they never moved).

Assorted pieces and parts.

This is what it looks like completed and reassembled.

THESE LITTLE FUCKERS. These are the final clips that hold the interior side mirror moulding cover in place. MESO even mentioned to be careful not to lose these. The trick is to be mean to them. If you put that part back on carefully, it'll push them inside the door. And they fall into a small fold in the steel (I lost 2) and they do not sink to the bottom of the door. You have to pop them in quickly. I ended up going to the dealership and buying 4 more for $18. It was soooo stupid.

Myself and others have had trouble with some sides not working during the test phase (which you should 100% do before reassembly). My driver's side didn't work. And we all had the same issue, that the male side of the plug didn't quite fit right, which made a bad connection to the little pins. Luckily, the pins are pretty rigid and you can flex them a little with the pick tool. BUT what's worth noting, is I ended up switching the driver's side light to the passenger side (on a whim to test it) and they both suddenly worked. I DO NOT KNOW WHY that worked. But once all the wiring and shit is done, the light housing can be picked out of the mirror without taking anything else apart (which I learned on my second try). So if you have an issue, you don't have to start over. You just need to sit under the mirror, pick out the housing and unscrew/unplug the light and mess with it. That'll save you some labor.

OH! And you need a 2mm allen wrench to screw in the lights, which is not in the instructions, so make sure you have one.

The last thing I'll add is that in my truck the dome light harness plug and airbag plug were mounted together on a joint body mount piece that made them perfectly fitted that MESO didn't talk about. I had to remove the bottom half from that mount first before having a chance of getting the new harness in there. It was a total pain in the ass because there's a weird clip holding it in. Detach it from the body first and then use your pick tool to try to slide it off so that it'll flex out like this. This hot mess will fit in your A-pillar but barely.

That's what I learned, hope it helps!
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There's also a switch meso is selling now that allows you to turn them on/off from inside the cab. I just picked that up and will be installing soon. I'm planning on using them as built in ditch lights

s7726 · Jan 3, 2021

CmdrTrekk said: ↑

The trick with the GIANT ASS window switch plug in the inside middle is that it has a locking collar you have to squeeze from the inside and pull back. There's a lock mechanism inside of it I've never seen before, so when you go to plug it back in, watch how that lock works when the collar moves. You want the collar locked all the way open otherwise it won't plug back in.
Click to expand...

Pull the window control portion out of the door before you remove the panel. It just pops off with your trim removal tool. Easy easier to get at that connector.

CmdrTrekk said: ↑

THESE LITTLE FUCKERS
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I've found with all these little clips you want to make sure to put them on the part, rather than leaving them in the spot they click into.
If they get stuck in the door when you remove the panel, pull them out and put them back on the panel. Then when you put the panel back, line them up and give the whole panel a good whack with your palm. Also don't do it when it's freezing cold, a little warmth makes everything a little more pliable.

MyDogsTruck · Jan 3, 2021

CmdrTrekk said: ↑

Those clips are available one at a time at the dealership for $4 (or less, our dealership mark up seems high) per piece. Instead of getting the pack of 30 online for $10 and never using 29 of them.

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Thank you! I’m headed to the dealer tomorrow anyway so I’ll grab some and cancel my order.

oostroma · Jan 3, 2021

s7726 said: ↑

Pull the window control portion out of the door before you remove the panel. It just pops off with your trim removal tool. Easy easier to get at that connector

I've found with all these little clips you want to make sure to put them on the part, rather than leaving them in the spot they click into.
If they get stuck in the door when you remove the panel, pull them out and put them back on the panel. Then when you put the panel back, line them up and give the whole panel a good whack with your palm. Also don't do it when it's freezing cold, a little warmth makes everything a little more pliable.
Click to expand...

I also covered the 3x holes with black tape and then cut a slot in the tape. It help prevent the clips from falling inward.

Grainger · Jan 3, 2021

DawgLover said: ↑

I’m glad you said this because as someone who is 6’3” I sometimes wonder if I should have gone with a Tundra. But also, as someone who is extremely frugal the Taco just makes sense. We use my wife’s Highlander if we need more interior room.
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Are you me?

Grainger · Jan 3, 2021

Just installed the MESO taillight stage 1 kit.
Easy easy easy.

For those that don't know, it changes your red turn signal into an amber signal in the same slot as the reverse and converts all rear lights to LEDs.
Left is stock, right is MESO

Rosshoss · Jan 3, 2021

Painted my climate rings black

Faustc1 · Jan 3, 2021

I was wondering if i have to go to another tacoma thread to sell my trd pro manual shift knob. Thoughts?

Foster Imposter · Jan 3, 2021

Faustc1 said: ↑

I was wondering if i have to go to another tacoma thread to sell my trd pro manual shift knob. Thoughts?
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I would say YES.
Go to for sale thread.

Faustc1 · Jan 3, 2021

Foster Imposter said: ↑

I would say YES.
Go to for sale thread.
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Thanks

HTOWN4X4 · Jan 3, 2021

Installed the eagle klaws on the passenger side floor mat.

scottstrong89 · Jan 3, 2021

I didn’t like the TRD red with the black truck. Nothing a little plasti dip couldn’t fix.

Puppypunter · Jan 3, 2021

rpowell25 said: ↑

Replaced the rubber bumps with hydro's

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Forgive the stupid question, but what is the point? Do these help carry more weight? Sorry, new to being a "truck guy". Used to dropping sports cars, not lifting trucks And what is the advantage to the ones you went with?

oostroma · Jan 3, 2021

Puppypunter said: ↑

Forgive the stupid question, but what is the point? Do these help carry more weight? Sorry, new to being a "truck guy". Used to dropping sports cars, not lifting trucks And what is the advantage to the ones you went with?
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I'm glad someone asked the question. I don't even know what they are?

CmdrTrekk · Jan 3, 2021

oostroma said: ↑

Your better of just buying a bag of clips on Amazon because if you mod once you will mod several more times later requiring the removal of the door panel countless times.
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Eh, yah, but I like to support the local shop. I bought more than I needed and now I know I don't have to use Amazon or wait for shipping. But I get your meaning because you're totally right.

CmdrTrekk · Jan 3, 2021

oostroma said: ↑

I also covered the 3x holes with black tape and then cut a slot in the tape. It help prevent the clips from falling inward.
Click to expand...

These are both great suggestions.

s7726 · Jan 3, 2021

oostroma said: ↑

I'm glad someone asked the question. I don't even know what they are?
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They absorb impact like a rubber bump stop, but way better. Makes it much smoother. They are valved to be progressive.

RyanDCLB · Jan 3, 2021

Puppypunter said: ↑

Forgive the stupid question, but what is the point? Do these help carry more weight? Sorry, new to being a "truck guy". Used to dropping sports cars, not lifting trucks And what is the advantage to the ones you went with?
Click to expand...

You can read up on those particular bump stops here: https://www.iconvehicledynamics.com...essories-05-up-tacoma-rear-hyd-bump-stop-kit/

Absorbs additional impact energy over the OEM rubber bump stop and returns the axle in a more controlled manner

Locked install video is here:

daltondrose · Jan 3, 2021

Greatdane01 said: ↑

Happy New Years! I installed Dobinsons struts and shocks this past week. Today I went to Toyota for an alignment. Is it possible to get the steering wheel straight at 12oclock or am I asking too much? The steering wheel is about 5% to the left. The new struts set things off but I was hoping for perfection. Maybe I need UCAs to accomplish this?

Click to expand...

I’d take that shit back

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