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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Apr 26, 2021 at 7:58 PM
    Dan8906

    Dan8906 Well-Known Member

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    So I replaced the wire from the alternator to the fuse box with 2 gauge, should I have run that directly to the battery? And not run anything back to the fuse box?
     
  2. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:08 PM
    Uphillshunter

    Uphillshunter El Taco Diablo

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    I ran 2 guage direct from alt to battery and left the leg from battery to fuse block alone.
     
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  3. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:23 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    I mean...yeah. the stock alt fuse in there is 80amps haha

    So I'd do alt to battery and battery to fuse box. You can split the fuse box to pull the really small wire that usually runs to the battery. 4ga will fit in the spot where it usually comes from the alt to run from the battery.
     
    Digiratus likes this.
  4. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:23 PM
    Dan8906

    Dan8906 Well-Known Member

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    Interesting, maybe I should pull the wire from the fuse box and move it to the battery then
     
  5. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:25 PM
    drr

    drr Primary Prognosticator

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    You should be running 2 ga. or 1/0 directly from the alternator to the battery, then from the battery to the fuse box with 4 ga. or so. You can pull out the alternator fuse from the fuse box while you're in there, it's not needed.
     
  6. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:25 PM
    Dan8906

    Dan8906 Well-Known Member

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    My alt fuse is 120amps
     
  7. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:27 PM
    Dan8906

    Dan8906 Well-Known Member

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    Gotcha!
     
  8. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:27 PM
    Uphillshunter

    Uphillshunter El Taco Diablo

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    The main thing you're trying to accomplish is getting juice from alt to battery... increasing wire guage, etc, to the fuse box doesn't do anything to actually help with that. The fuse box is downstream from what you're trying to do.

    And as @Blackdawg pretty much said, the main fuse is going to be a limiting factor on that side anyway.
     
  9. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:32 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    in the stock fuse box? You must have swapped it out I take it?
     
  10. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:34 PM
    Dan8906

    Dan8906 Well-Known Member

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    Nope. Came like that. I was surprised to honestly. Says 120 on the lid as well
     
  11. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:35 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    interesting. wonder if you had a higher output alt as well.

    Either way. run the alt to the battery.
     
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  12. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:38 PM
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    I know its a really short run, but a fuse or a circuit breaker is there to protect the wire. I run a 150 amp CB between the alt and the battery.
     
    Area51Runner likes this.
  13. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:42 PM
    betterbuckleup

    betterbuckleup Well-Known Member

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    FWIW the reading from my scangauge is significantly less than the USB voltmeter that I replaced one of the 12v outlets with that I have wired direct to the battery.
     
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  14. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:49 PM
    Uphillshunter

    Uphillshunter El Taco Diablo

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    @Dan8906... FWIW I am also measuring direct. (not through scan/ultra guage)
     
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  15. Apr 26, 2021 at 8:54 PM
    Rldanie

    Rldanie Punisher78

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    That’s awesome!
     
  16. Apr 26, 2021 at 9:20 PM
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

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    OK, so this is the first I've heard of the CS144's party trick. Can you tell me more about it? I got the (well, have on order) the 105A since it seems like an easier plug/play...am I being short sighted? I mean, in reality, I don't have any trouble with my OEM alt, so maybe I'm overthinking things in the first place.
     
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  17. Apr 26, 2021 at 9:20 PM
    Potter1ton coma

    Potter1ton coma Well-Known Member

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    665B2129-5922-4713-8E84-EBDD0081194B.jpg
     
  18. Apr 26, 2021 at 9:54 PM
    Digiratus

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    Somewhere, it has been a while, there was a chart that plotted the power output (amperage) for the cs144 and the OEM alts as the alt rpms increased. The important range of rpms was ~800-2000 as I recall. The stock alts lagged by quite bit in that range.

    I don't think the denso 105 was not part of thst comparison.
     
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  19. Apr 26, 2021 at 10:17 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    yeah i guess that thread on ExpoP is dead. Odd.

    happy reading: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...trail-rig-and-bs.159436/page-141#post-6283584

    Although the real nice one from expoP is dead which is a shame.

    Also of note, you can get two different pulley sizes, a 51mm and a 52mm, the 52 naturally puts out more.

    Not sure how you've missed this in our other discussions. It's why Mike and I have one.


    That said, considering how much you're driving, the 105 is probably fine. The CS144's party trick really comes in handy during winching if anything.

    But, it is cheaper, easily replaced at literally any parts store pretty much, and puts out more total amps and much higher at idle....so...yeah.

    All you need is a spacer which is easily found at a hardware store.


    I mean...it makes sense, look at the size difference:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    install with spacer here.


    Oh you also can just buy a plug n play pig tail to convert it right to the toyota harness for like 12 bucks or something instead of hacking together something like what I did. That wasn't an option back in the day haha
     
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  20. Apr 26, 2021 at 10:31 PM
    turbodb

    turbodb AdventureTaco

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    Thanks both. I should probably clarify - I knew of the CS144 and the fact that lots of folks (including you guys) run it. I also knew that it's reasonably easy to install and just needs that spacer. What I didn't know about was the low-RPM, higher-output "party trick," which might have been enough for me to overlook the size difference (my engine bay is already too full) compared to the 105A. Anyway, I'll take a read through those posts you linked from Franks thread. :thumbsup:
     
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