What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Goddamn this is a word for word post of my experience doing the same thing. Needed to get new lines from Toyota.

 

That’s crazy, when did you change yours? And what year truck? I’m almost 100% positive these were original from 2003 so 19 years for the Union to corrode together.

 

Oh these look even better in person!

 

2001 with the AC rebuilt in 2018... so 17 years and I needed to replace a line again via warranty because it sprung a leak between the drier and condenser.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-01-build-thread.290011/page-69#post-18861594

 

After 21 years, she finally got a polish and wax.




All the sun fading has led to a really pretty sunburst effect that came out after the wax. Kinda reminds me of that classic Les Paul finish.

 

The plan is to make a fiberglass mold to kill the gaps and allow the rack to sit flat & flush.. The roof rack flexes way too much as it gets tightened down (as it sits with the gaps) so I don’t have many pics..

The most weight it’s carried in the past with the weaker rivets & gaps were 8 gallons of liquid & some aluminum poles..

Once the gaps are solved I’m confident this thing will hold what I throw up there…

 

What are the specs on these...they do look nice.

 

Got my new co’s mounted and swapped my 700# coils I had on a pair of Donahoes Have some concerns about body fatigue, so not sure about the resi mounting, but I tried just about every configuration and ended up following what Betterbuckleup did, not many other options. May need to reinforce that area rear resi mounts I used a ruffstuff bracket and tucked it in the frame rail swingout finalized after a first effort leading to the latch hitting the tire.

 

Looking good.

Yeah, I can confirm that I had some tearing of the sheet metal on the part where the fender apron meets the core support. The resi def adds a bunch of extra weight in that spot.

Although, my core support is a mix of bolted on and welded on since it was replaced so that maybe a factor as far as where mine started to crack.

 

17x9 -38mm BS

 

I replaced my core support as well about 10 years ago, truck has seen a lot of abuse

 

Got the leaking steering rack removed last night in about 3 hours. Any advice for how to remove the lower part of the rag joint from the old rack? I removed the 12mm nut, but it's stuck on there good. Have already doused it in PB blaster, and may give it the torch treatment tonight. Wasn't sure if there was a good technique for removing it.

 

We bolted a slide hammer to it, that thing puts up a fight

 

An air hammer should zip it right off.

 

+1 to air hammer, it's how I have always needed to do it.

 

Thanks fellas, looks like I'm going to be paying a visit to Harbor Freight tonight to pick up an air hammer.

 

That's a lot of leverage acting on that sheet metal when bouncing around. I mounted mine to the front crossmember behind the skid. Not the best for air flow but keeps it out of the way and it's solid.

 

Agreed, I don’t trust it at all, passenger side even worseI think my solution may be getting some heavy stock aluminum bar I can bend to the angle I need and bolt it to the frame below the body. My frame is reinforced in the front after fixing a bent frame rail, so could probably just tap a hole.

Any pictures you can share of your setup?

I looked in that area, figured I’d have to fab a mount for it to get it away from the power steering lines.

The biggest concern is keeping the hose as tight as possible to the IFS framing, I tested with the steering maxed out at full stuff and full droop, not a lot of room

Full stuffFull droop is not as big a concern

 

I "tried" putting the resi above the UCA and was strongly suggested to move it ( @Digiratus and @drr ).



@drr actually came over and we strong armed the resi into a better place-ish.

Edit: Lake City Way in the house!