What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Wonder if someone mixed Dexcool in with it, heard that it can form gel and solid chunks and prevent the system from cooling. Could explain how the PO overheated it

 

I would probably put a flat washer under that lock washer that had some surface area on it to help prevent stress cracking. Just my 2 cents..

 

Finally think I have it nailed down to where vibration is coming from! I started hearing a clunk of my last trip and discovered play in the driver hub. Crazy thing is, the temp of that spindle is 2* cooler than the passenger with a new bearing back in the spring. Attempted to fix it today but was shut down before I began...

Also found my water pump for the intercooler quit pumping. Thought I just had an air pocket since I had some small leaks.

 

If those studs break off, you can just through bolt it with a nut on the backside. On the exhaust side that is. Not ideal, but that's what I did. Those studs are a pita on that EGR tube. Wish I could delete it....

 

It's on the intake side, I'm hoping spending a few days backing the nut on/off with some lube might help it. Worst case just replace the hardware I guess

 

I did the same thing a couple on weeks ago using an old Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar. I ended up buying a 3/4" breaker bar that was 3 feet long from HF for $90. It did the job. My 1 3/8" socket (too cheap to buy a 35mm) was already a 3/4" drive.

 

Another reason (in my mind) I like Manual hubs. Imagine if this were a broken CV axle on the trail.

I just drove off the Dusy/Ershim trail with 2 broken CV axles, drove all the way home, and drove to work 2 days... they are still broken

 

But what the hell are ya'll doing to your CV axle nuts for this to even happen? My electric impact rated at 250lb zips off my CV nut with no issues.

 

The torque for that is high, but not THAT high. Not exactly sure, can't remember, but it's around 230 (I think)

I'm thinking maybe some sort of corrosion or something is causing that to stick. Or maybe bad wheel bearing overheated it and caused something to expand... totally guessing here.

 

ADD CV axle nut torque is 174 ft/lbs, impact usually removes it no problem but it gets the torque wrench for tightening.

 

You don't tighten it until it loosens and then back a quarter turn plus a tack weld?

 

Actually to be honest, my 250 ft/lb torque wrench broke so I use the 150 and then give it one ugga dugga. Hasn't blown up yet lol.

 

Maybe I was thinking 230 for my wife's Silverado.

 

I drove home on a broken cv/ADD

ain't even a thing

 

Depends on how broke it is

 

In the cup on the diff side if I mumber right.

I still don't think it would be a big deal though, with the tools all of you pack around.

 

Changing the CVs wouldn't have been a big deal for us on this. But considering the first one broke at about mile 29 of the 33 mile trail, and the other one broke with a mile to go (on the gatekeeper, going down and out of the trail) I just decided it's easier to do it in the driveway instead of the parking lot.

For @Reh5108 (in the situation we're talking about) though... it would have been a big deal though. Considering he is having a pretty hard time even getting the axle nut off.

 

impact is the way

 

Gotcha. Ya I haven't had too many issues with the intake side. That pipe is a pita to get on and off though. Not a lot of room between it and the firewall

 

This is the exact reason I went with manual hubs!