What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Love this shot! Just the right amount of background blur and I swear it looks like one of those mini rc/models.

 

Prob drives like one too

 

Thanks man! I can definitely see the RC car resemblance.

We're going to find out in February once she's a little more dialed and broken in.

 

I've seen Toyota logos like the one cbechtold has, but for some reason the Toyota logo has always made me think of a smiley face. I couldn't find anything like that on google, so I tried to make one on google sheets... it's not the best drawing app

 

35s just complete the 1st gen look, little Tonka Truck/RC action without looking goofy

 

Yeah. It's a nice mix. It's gonna look extra goofy if I stick to putting 37s on it once my 35s wear out.

 

Did you tub enough to clear 37s with the LT?

 

Nope

 

I think you'd be fine at the fire wall. Well maybe, I think mine would be since I tubed before I had Lt. It's the fenders and everything else that's above and in front that'll suck.

 

If the LT kits move the tire forward an inch like the aftermarket Solo arms did then yeah I think I'd be able to clear, but I dunno, I think even with LT I'd need a shitload of BS like Frank has to get a 37 in there and then it would look a bit goofy.

 

Franks wheels are only 3.75. not that crazy.

But yes Matt has said it does push it forward. You can clearly see it in Cory's photos too. He couldn't remember how far forward but it does add castor that way.

But yeah I'm not saying it's be easy either way haha

 

Update!

New clutch is like butter. I'm amazed at how smooth and light the clutch is compared to one with broken fingers.

Just did a commute with it and it pulls up hills again. Got a little chatter at the end in low speed light to light of the drive but I'm guessing this might go away after it being broken in more. We are at like 24miles so far.

That plug and wires that broke off seem to work in conjunction with the transfer case, another wire in the rear of it and a silonoid (that kept actuating the solenoid on my drive) lots of clicking and 4wd light going on and off mostly.

Stoked to have done it right (unlike the last time)

Luk flywheel from marlincrawler (didn't know it was luk or I would have just picked one up local)
Lce pro clutch kit (yes it has factory bearing and throw out)
And a fully rebuilt trans by a local shop m.i.t.

 

Glad to hear it, I was amazed at the carnage from your old clutch. Happy it didn't damage the bell housing or anything important when the fingers broke off.

 

My power steering pump has gotten pretty loud on startup as the weather has gotten below freezing. It sounds like either the pump itself or the bearing is making a lot of noise. Once it warms up it quiets down. I replaced the steering rack and cleaned the reservoir screen earlier this year, so I don't think it's likely that the filter screen is clogged. I'm planning to do the timing belt in the next month or two, was thinking it might be worth replacing the P/S pump bearing while everything is apart. Are there any guides or videos for the P/S pump rebuild? Any other pulley bearings worth replacing while I'm doing the timing belt job?

 

Oh... it did...


And we found a finger lodged in what I think is the hole above the fork. I'll post a photo of it when I get home. It looks like a real finger now.

I have a spare everything (lost my last truck and salvaged what I could) so that trans went in for the rebuild. This one will need a new bell housing for sure

Little worried about the chatter but I've never done a performance clutch before and saw that could be normal foe when it mates. But I'll just drive it and see what happens...

For now that wire needs to be capped. I think the circuit is completing (forgot to cover the wires) and triggering the silonoid to activate. If not I'll pull the back one off and see if that's a temp fix for now.

 

If it has ceramic pucks on the new clutch then a little chatter is normal, have to really get your mind out of slipping those, they eat the flywheel and pressure plate almost as much as they do their pucks. You'll get the hang of using it binary pretty quick though, the one on my 300zx was brutal during break in but the break in with a ceramic clutch is as much you getting used to it as it is actually breaking in.

 

I opted out of the dual composite, but I love how these don't say if it has ceramic or not.
Ok. No slipping. Got it!
The last one slipped on its own without my help haha

https://www.lceperformance.com/Pro-Clutch-Kit-5VZ-1995-2004-10-p/1053030.htm

I'll have to drive it more and see if it's doing that while I'm inadvertently slipping. I think the last time was when it was engaged and I tried giving it Throttle.


300zx tt? That was the first car that got me into mechanics. My neighbors, but still fun, we have room for days in our bay by comparison to that engine haha. Love those things

 

I test fitted one of my dad's 37s, I'd need to redo some of my tub job, and rebuild the inner fenders, and take a wee bit more out of my front fenders.

Matt's kit moved my wheels forward 3/4" compared to stock when I measured. Pretty sweet and I love it.

 

It's a normal Organic clutch, best thing you can do to break those in is get stuck in stop and go traffic haha. Sets em real nice in a low load environment.

I cut the back out for 37s but yeah I'm pretty sure the front wouldn't clear without moving my wheel forward at least 1"

 

Yeah, 37s would be tough to fit without moving the wheel forward a good amount or a body lift. I feel like with some better backspacing for the wheels it'll fit even better since these SCS F5s have some gnarly backspacing.