What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Which style is best for my ‘98? They both have halogen bulbs. The bottom set is like what’s on my sons ‘02, but I don’t know if they are less bright. Right now my 25 year old lights are faded and are like driving with candles lighting my way.

 

I have set of the lower style and I like how they look and they perform fine with a headlight wiring harness and a set of 100w osram bulbs

 

Hey @crashnburn80, care to jump in here? You're probably going to be tagged a bunch more since I feel like I've called on you multiple times in the last few weeks.

 

Got a question.

My tacoma is a 99, 4cyl, 5spd, 4wd. Locking hubs and manual, j shift t case.

Will a t case from a 99 or 2000, can't remember the year exactly. But that truck was a 4cyl, automatic transmission, manual shift t case.

Can I use the t case from the automatic truck, on my 5spd truck? The reason for this, I believe the rear output bearing is going bad in my current case. I think it would be easier to swap the cases, than tear apart my current case. Especially since I have the other case just sitting in my shop taking up space.

 

I don't believe so. The spline count and shaft length is going to be different. I could be wrong but that is what I've taken away from previous threads. If you notice, in @turbodb's identification article, he has a visual reference of both the manual and AT cases.



Replacing the bearing isn't difficult. You'll need access to a shop press of course but breaking it down to replace that bearing is really straight forward.

What makes you think the bearing is on its way out?

 

It has a little play at the flange and of course a vibration.

 

Check the flange locknut (87 ftlbs), make sure it hasn't come loose.

 

Spline count is the same and I believe you can interchange the input shafts.

 

Still going to have to break down the case.

 

No, I'm saying they can both work on either trans.

From what I've read, no one really understands why the lengths are different or that hole exists.

 

That's cool, thx for pointing it out. He didn't want to tear into it which is why I mentioned breaking it down. All good.

My money is on the flange locknut. Not sure how it could come loose but if it did, it'd account for any play and vibration. Those bearings are bullet proof.

@easleycrawler, if you do tear into the case be very careful with the shift keys. PITA to put back into place if they pop out.

 

Thanks I'll check that.

 

Appreciate it. Yeah I've heard about the dreaded shift keys. I'll check the nut and see if that's it. Also I checked it again at lunch, the seal needs replacing and there is just a small amount of play in the cv joint in the driveshaft, which could be my vibration as well. What size is the flange nut, 30mm?

 

Here are some pics from when I gutted my case. Like I said, PITA those shifting keys lol.





Note those hair pulling POS shifting keys circled in red lol



There are 2 large snap rings that hold the planetary assembly in place. Once removed, you can swap the input shaft.



There is a snap ring that keeps the shaft in place. Once you have the cover back on, flange slides on and then the lock nut of course.



I could go on and on with pictures so if you need any specific, let me know. Getting the shift rods and then the forks to line up in place is a pita, the horse pill and 2 springs can be a little picky with placement.

 

I don't remember the size to be honest.

 

Great info, definitely appreciate it.

 

If it is the bearing, this is the one. Part# is below. Like I said though, bullet proof lol.

 

Awesome. Thanks. Hopefully it's the nut, or the driveshaft cv joint.

 

The horse pill is easy. It goes in the garbage, so you can run twin sticks