What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Fun times were had

 

Got lucky getting my 2000, they discontinued it the following year.

Are you getting the ARP bolts for the turbo? Or just keeping the boost low?

ARP bolts might be on my list of to do items this year depending on what the new supercharger TVS1320 ends up costing, looks like there will be plenty of headroom for more boost on that unit.

 

If you're talking about ARP head bolts then no I'm not going to bother, they're not a concern you really need to have unless you also build the bottom end of the engine too. The 5VZ is very reliable at stock power numbers but it isn't all that strong. You'll bend rods before you lift heads on it. Somewhere around the 13psi range is my stopping point, but I'll stop earlier if I hit my power goal. I'll be using my timing to keep the power from hitting too hard down low to save my rods. 350whp is all I'm asking for which gets pretty close to the 400hp at the crank zone where these engines are about at their stock bottom end power limit. I would absolutely put in the ARP head bolts if I was going to fully build a 5VZ for power though, but honestly IMHO stronger parts for this engine are way overpriced and it isn't worth the extra expense. I could blow up and replace three of them before hitting the cost to mildly build one myself.

I think you'll benefit from the TVS charger just because of less parasitic loss and it is likely way more volumetrically efficient. I'd bet you'll find that it makes the same power you're used to at a lower pressure and you can probably turn it up to your current pressure and make more power than you have so far. This is true of turbochargers setups typically as well, they'll make more power at the same boost pressure vs a supercharger.

 

Ok, good to know, I would like to get close to the 325hp mark but more importantly the higher torque number is what I want.
I’ve seen other turbo setups and 325hp seems to be the safe spot before special clutches are needed and probably more general wear comes into play with the added power above that number. At my current power level let say 280hp 305 torque the stock components can handle this without any issues and I want to stay in that safe window (daily driver) if possible.
As you said the parasite loss and improved volumetric efficiency of a 180 rotor twist compared to the current 60 degree will be a lot.
Can you explain this graph from the Eaton website on the output of the tvs1320? I know it is rated at 20k but we will never see those numbers on the 3.4.
I don’t understand this graph.
Is the 68 percent number the most efficient air flow at 12,000rpms?
Pressure ratio axis? What is this meaning?
KW meaning? Power to run the supercharger? 1 KW=1.3 hp,
Meaning at 12,000rpms it’s using 26hp to run the supercharger which seems like a small amount?

 

It's kinda like a turbo compressor map, I'm not a fan of that graph you posted cause the units are in BAR, kilowatt, and kg/hr. Very non american units haha. The vertical axis is the output pressure from the supercharger. 1 bar is atmosphere 14.5psi, that's why it is at the bottom, if that graph was in US units it would just be 0psi. That graph is telling you the supercharger is at its most efficient (around 68% efficient) generating 9.43psi of boost spinning around 12k rpm, efficiency stays on pretty decent climbing from there actually, this SC is a lot less wasteful than the old design.

 

thanks
Using 20KW = 26hp to run the supercharger at 12k? 1kw=1.3hp?
Old supercharger is like 60hp I thought I saw someone post somewhere?

is that right?

 

Yeah at 12k it looks like it would be using 15-16kw (20-21.75hp) to turn it, you can see where it becomes less and less efficient to spin it faster by the parasitic losses incurred. After about 14k it becomes worthless for making power since you're using so much to spin it. But still like I said earlier it's pretty efficient at 9.5psi and the original supercharger was more at home around 6 so that's a pretty big improvement. Whether that's a $3800 improvement or not is up to you.

 

nice!
Thanks for the info,
(can’t turbo in my location because of emissions)

I’m wanting to upgrade simply because the rebuilds are getting ridiculous and months for the rebuilds to be done, my last rebuild was 2100.00 and people are waiting 3 months for the work to be done depending where u go.My 1st complete rebuild from Eaton was 700.00 years ago.

The rotor pack bearings and rotor seals and rotor timing are the issues the normal guy like me can’t do. You need special tools and a special jig.
And the case parts for the 1st gen are not available anymore, you can’t get a nose snout anywhere if needed and I’ve replaced mine twice from wear. The TVS should go much further between rebuilds then 100k, magnuson told me 200k or more for the TVS.
So it’s a good time to upgrade while my current supercharger is running perfectly and has great value DEPENDING on tvs price of course,
Hopefully it’s a 2000.00 difference at the end of the day

 

So should I expect $2100 for all new bearings and rotor pack rebuild. Is that what you had done?

 

I needed new rotors 500.00 , but the rebuilds know they can charge a premium and do so because of demand

 

You can thank other more popular supercharged vehicles for the markup too, goons blowing up hellcat and LSA superchargers clog up the pipelines for rebuilds

 

I got the pig mated. My new to me engine and my mature transmission or together for hopefully a long and happy relationship.

 

The gaskets on the top of the gas tank, maybe the fuel pump depending on the age/mileage of the one you have in there. Worth checking the condition of the hoses in the evap system, some of those can be replaced with generic fuel line which is pretty cheap.

 

Installed a 12 inch sub into my 1st gen.

 

I second this. I would replace any seals and lines while you are there. Most of them are pretty cheap from Toyota. I don't have the evap under the bed on my truck, but I did these 3 on my tank when I had my bed off:

 

Ok, so I converted it over to USA numbers so that I can understand more with a 6 pound boost window and a 10 pound boost window and rounded the numbers.
“IF” I did it correctly it makes a lot more sense,
Looks like it only needs 10-15hp to run the supercharger in the 6 pound boost area which is huge win!

 

Although not completely satisfied with the '00 Tacoma (are we ever?), I need to start throwing money at my next project. Different Forum and I hope they are as helpful as you Tacoma folks...

 

Yanked the canopy off. Bikini season is here! Mounted up some Kbvoodoo bed bars that I’ve had for a while.

 

Started the day by putting a hole in my radiator.




Good excused to get the shorter one i guess.

Then swapped up the UCA bushings and checked over the front suspension.



Now starting to clean the front end up a bit.



Have a new grille and corner lights coming too.


Question - these are LED projectors and a want to use the factory wiring. Does anyone know an easy wire to wire them in?

 

Anyone have experience with Bishko manuals? They're advertised as OEM-authorized reprints. Are they true copies of the OE shop manuals? Any drawbacks to them over an OE manual?

I know there are PDFs floating around, but sometimes paper is nice and the Bishko reprints are comparable in price to a used shop copy on ebay, without the oil stains.