What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

What is this switch for, to prevent theft?

Perhaps interrupting power to the starter rather than the ignition would be better?

 

My tacoma has been in the shop for over a month with break issues, just got it back with bonus exhaust problems.
I’m told it has an exhaust leak, and I have no idea how to go about finding it and fixing it. Looking for tips… it has its original TRD cat-back exhaust, which I think is showing its age.

 

On a cold start you can spray the various joints with soapy water from a spray bottle and if it bubbles you have a leak there. If you try to do it hot the stuff just steams right off

 

That makes sense. Thanks!

 

The switch I put in interrupts power to the fuel pump. I cut into it where it runs under the carpet and goes out of a grommet under the driver's seat. I just ran my wire up to a switch that's up inside the frame of the seat. So far it works pretty well, I'll flip it if I park in a sketchy area or if I have to park and then leave some distance from the truck. I didn't put it on the starter because I didn't want to mess with a relay or have obvious wires under the dash and if my switch fails it's not that hard to get to my splice and hotwire the fuel pump if need be

 

Pulled the front axle out to move it forward and inspect some stuff.

 

Hovering your hand over the joints works as well, you will feel it puffing out.

 

Out with the old dried up worn out Coopers, went with 265/75-16 Yokohama M/T G003. This was also in preparation for the Tundra brake upgrade. Vision 84 D window steel wheels, 16X8 with -12 offset. I will be running a one inch spacer to clear the upcoming calipers, everything should fit fine. I did have to trim the back of the fenders and bend over the pinch weld. It barely rubs at full lock, I can live with that.

 

Also, the original Arizona frame.

 

Wasn’t done today, but finished about a week ago with ARB bumper install and OME rear spring and front coil over install. About a 3 “ lift overall

 

So I am still on deployment status, *thought I would be done by now) and I ordered my OVRLND camper.
It is due to be installed this month, so I have had my son working to get it ready. This is its current state.


It hasn't looked like this in years. It also makes it rough walking through all of this with my family from across the pond.

 

Stay safe.

 

Stuff a shop vac in the tail pipe with the hose connected to the blow side and get some soapy water to spray around seams.

 

Got my trans cooler all done. Fabbed up the bracket last night and this morning got it mounted to the truck and all the plumbing done this morning. About ready to put the front back together

 

I installed some Stoptech brake lines. After installing I noticed that the lines rub on my coilovers (Camburg/Sway-a-Way 2.5) at full lock. There are wear marks on the rubber lines I removed that make me think this is a problem with the coilovers and not the brake lines.

Has anyone else seen this problem? @Speedytech7 I think you have the same coilovers.

I'm wondering if I should flip the banjo fitting 180 degrees so the line angles toward the caliper instead of away. I'm worried that this might put the line too close to the wheel. The rubber lines had the line angled away from the caliper. They had an indexing tab, so I'm sure they were installed correctly.

 

I have the same lines too haha. They don't have an alignment Tang like the factory ones so I chose to just angle them backwards so that the curve of the line fitting didn't smack the coil over.

 

Used it as Santa's Sleigh for some Christmas Shopping!

 

how much of a difference did all of it make for how quiet it is inside the cab? You're on 35's as well right?

 

I've done this a few times now. If you remove the OE sound deadening the new deadener will make more of a difference in the floor and dash areas. The OE hard material and weak adhesive make more noise than they deaden at this point...

 

Hard to say, it's been so long since I've done it and I've gone through different exhaust setups and tires in that time. I'm on 35s yes. I can say the most noise actually doesn't come from the floor or ceiling as much as it does from behind the dash/firewall (wheel wells included ofc), and door & window seals. The window seals are especially difficult to fix since Toyota left a huge margin of error. Realistically the glass should be thickened.
Heck, the carpet came a little long so I flipped the excess up so it's sort of enclosed underneath the glove box and it made a noticeable difference too. (Too bad you can't do that where the pedals are on the drivers side). I have insulation all over inside my dash board, as well as a 1/2" layer of it under the fabric I put on, double seals on the rear window, and I'm in the process of making thicker door panels out of fabric and 3/4" MDF (one is done). Ceiling has acoustic foam glued in. Rear cab wall is butyl-treated and almost all plastic is upholstered. Everything helps a little bit, but I would throw most of my focus to the open areas in the front.

Oh, and carpeting my bed and adding a tonneau cover even helped noise from the rear