What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I've heard this statement before about extending CV boot life, but I'm not sure I really buy it for a couple reasons:

1. A lot of folks run CVs for the life of their truck and never have to replace a boot. I ran mine for 17 years and only had to replace the boots when I added a lift... which gets to #2

2. Over time, rubber (the CV boots) form a memory through their "normal" range of motion. This is why a lot of folks tear boots when they install their first 3" lift. By not having the CVs rotate all the time, you're limiting that "normal" range of motion, which could cause premature fatigue when the boots actually do rotate.

And of course, there are caveats with #2 - how often do you lock the hubs (more often would mean more "normal movement"), what about all the oil in there that should (theoretically) keep the boots more supple, etc.​

Now, I'm not saying that ADD is better than manual hubs, and conceptually I really like the idea of non-spinning CVs when not in 4wd (fewer moving parts, less wear and tear, less friction, etc.).

I'm not even saying that ADD boots will last longer than manual; only that we shouldn't necessarily equate non-rotation with longer boot life.

This is what I really like about manual hubs. I wish I could do 2Lo (and locker) sometimes. Not for any real functional reason, just for fun.

 

You can if you have a J shift tcase. Just need to put a twin stick shifter in it. Bam. 2lo.

 

Oh, is that all? Not that hard really, I guess now that I've looked at it. Hardest part is dropping the t-case it looks like. Cool.

I suppose I could get full-time 2Lo by "just" installing 5.29s.

 

My van is manual hubs and 2lo is handy, never thought I would need it but turns out in a vehicle of that size and weight it's useful. And I only usually use it because I'm too lazy to get out and lock the hubs

 

Well then you'd need 35s. And Long travel. And a supercharger.

 

All very good points. I don't think the idea (manual hubs) is all that appealing because I like never having to get out and lock the hubs (I'd surely forget to do so until I absolutely needed them). I was mostly just quoting what I've heard others say about manual hubs and their purported benefits

 

FIFY

I almost wrote all that myself, but I knew you'd have a good time with it, so I left it for you.

 

When my ADD actuator quit working I didn't realize it at first, I thought my dash light was malfunctioning because the transfer case was still engaging in low. I don't remember trying the locker but the gray wire mod might fix that if it was an issue

 

Or there's more to it than just dropping the case. You have to open the case and take the giant "pill" out. (Detent).



Then you get to take a cutting wheel to the shifter rail.



Fun times


But, it's really not that hard. And totally worth it in my opinion.

 

You still get out to air down, right?

I'm in and out of the truck so much on the trail anyway, it never bothered me.

Now that I'm LT with Tundra axles I'm not running manual hubs... and I hate it.

 

I honestly haven't ever aired down because where I go hunting up here in Northern AZ (which accounts for virtually all of my offroading) is more mild crawling and some higher speed sand wash stuff. I also use the truck quite a bit in snow and ice, and then I really dislike getting out of the truck then.

 

Air down is always the first thing I do. The ride is way more comfy.

For snow, ice, and sand it's way better traction too.

 

Everyone beat me to it, lol.

My reasons were:
*less moving parts/simplicity.
*gives the driver more options
*better 4wd shift 'feel'

The boot wear, mileage gain(not), and 'durability' issues all seem negligible tbh. The original boots on the 235k CVs I pulled look pristine

But I like mechanical things, and I feel like this removes several layers of potential trouble shooting in the field should electronics, actuators, or wiring decide to show their age.

but I also think @turbodb had a solid 2nd point about the boots settling into one position and how that might effect lifespan.

At the end of the day its a Toyota, not sure theres any wrong answers, just personal choice

 

Let's not forget to mention the 6mm in diameter shaft size between the two and when the shaft breaks in the hub, the hub is toast too and good luck finding rebuild parts for them. None were available 10 years ago when I needed them.

A body in motion stays in motion, keep those CVs moving!

 

You mean these parts?

https://209yota1.com/products/manual-locking-hub-aisin-tacoma-1995-2001/


The CV shaft may be 6mm smaller. But the vast majority of CV fails are in the joint.

Levers and dials are more predictable and reliable than electrical and vacuum tubes.

Also, the manual intermediate shaft is stronger than the ADD stub shaft. I'd rather trail swap a CV than pull the diff


This is the "Less filling" "Tastes great" debate.

 

maybe we should let the hub debate rest and talk about something we can all agree on like the best oil type, weight, and change intervals?

 

That's too controversial. If you want to maintain a cohesive flow here we need to talk about ball joints and how OEM is the only proper choice.

 

No the brass bushing/bearing