What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

If you wreck that bushing, chances are you wrecked the hub body anyway.

I smoked that bushing on they way home from a trip once. The one time I had to lock that hub to get home lol.

The body was damaged to the point where I tried to re-use it by using the bushing out of a spare hub assembly. After I dressed the body where the bushing overheated it... It smoked the bushing agian.

They probably don't sell that bushing anymore because there is no point. You're better off replacing the whole assembly.

 

5/30 Mobil1 High Mileage.

If you use anything else, you suck.



I'm kidding... but you really should use 5/30 Mobil1 High Mileage.

 

best argument I've heard for an oil yet, I'm sold!

 

25 year old rubber, finally got the motor mounts replaced. Did the transmission mount a while back. Made a noticeable difference but I think the engine actually moves more when you shift gears now, though its smooth and no more "clunk" when it happens or off the line from a stop.

Jacked up on the oil pan, no issues. Found it far easier to just take the mount off from the block bracket. It raised my engine probably an entire inch if not more after replacing.

 

I am guessing that Quinn tool came in handy for most of the job.

 

My most used tool in the box

 

Was having problems with the Exedy flywheel I just installed, so swapped it for a Luk. Fun doing that again....



Then tosses on a new set of J59s.

 

What's that Quinn tool for?

 

Modelo time
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPKrf1Xid_g

 

I extended my rear diff vent up near the fuel fill door using union #

$10 90404-51026 Intake Air Control Valve Union

90404-51026 and some silicone hose. Threaded the existing rear diff vent valve onto the end of the hose and attached the other end to the union which was threaded into the rear diff.

Also sprayed CorBan 35 on areas of the frame that needed corrosion protection touch up.

Mike

 

Gotcha

I was racking my mind to figure what use that could possibly have during a motor mount job lol. How could I have overlooked something so essential?

 

Is the starter bendix messed up?

 

No. Everyone, including Exedy, blamed it on the starter.

I pulled the starter and tested it and everything worked well.

The problem didn't happen with the OEM flywheel I originally removed, or the Luk flywheel I just installed. 100% the problem was the shit Exedy flywheel. 10/10 do not recommend.

 

Yes, the locking portion of the hub was destroyed. Are you saying when you buy a new hub it comes with bushings?

And here we are spending more money than just replacing an axle.

 

I'm not sure if we are talking about the same thing.

I think you are talking about the bronze liner (I called it a bushing, but I misspoke it's actually an embedded bronze liner with dimples in it to hold grease). It's at the back of the manual hub body, that's between the splined cog and the hub body. The splined cog being what is held in by the C clip.

That isn't a serviceable part. I tried to polish it back out after I smoked it. It just over heated again. I replaced that side with a spare hub body and smoked it again. (Not even sure what even caused that. It was just before I changed over to Tundra axles and had to go with ADD hubs)


As for the locking portion. The "splined cog" if that is what you are talking about... I believe Longfield and Nitro make those, as a replacement, in Chromoly. I know they make them for Toyota Truck manual hubs. But a set of those cogs will cost you the same as one entire hub body.

 

Its been a minute since I've looked a a manual hub but id my memory serves me right. There are tw of them. One on each side of the needle bearing that rotates around the axle when in the free position.

 

There is no needle bearing inside the manual hub.

This is the exploded hub



The "cog" next to the hub body and/or the one in the upper right is what I think you are referring to, that blew up when you sheared a CV.

The part next to the hub looks similar to this one.



These are LongField Chromoly (solid axle truck, still not sure they make these for Tacoma, just an example of the inner hub gear). The machined surface just passes through a bronze sleeve in the hub body it's self. That bronze sleeve has dimples to retain grease. The machined surface turning inside that bronze sleeve is the only "bearing" you have, inside the hub body, when freewheeling.

The groove at the bottom of the machined surface on the above "cog" (for lack of a better word). is retained by the C clamp shown below.

 

If you have the manual trans and the hybrid shifter it's a matter of unplugging one plug:

Cynicalriders "J0hnny5 is ALIVE!" 01 build thread.

With that and the grey wire mod I can do 2 low locked anytime.

 

Swapped out the Kings for bilsteins back there?

Or you just run the manual hub intermediate tube with ADD axles and spindle and let them both spin all the time