What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

They were required to run solos LBJ to spherical bearing conversion that's probably why

 

Which failure point?

This issue isn't a failure point. The problem is the double shear on the TC LBJ is at too much of an angle to mate up with the spindle.

I would either have to bevel the bottom of the spindle... more than I'd feel comfortable. Or cut part of the double shear bracket on the TC LBJ and re-weld it.

 

Not that I'm jealous of you for having to go to Firestone, but they wouldn't let me buy lifetime alignment simply because I was lifted.

 

The base of the double shear is much straighter with Solo... shown here.




The orange on these TC LBJs would have to be cut out.





I would also need to drill out the bolt holes on the TC LBJs that are closest to the wheel to 1/2 (that's what Solo uses) and drill out the holes farther from the wheel on the spindles to 12mm because that's what I've modified my TC LBJs to run.

 

Fuck it.

I guess now it'll be all Solo Motorsports.

At least, now I'll have a set of spare 1 inch uni balls and trail spare steering links.

 

Just cut that shit off and weld up a new dual shear bracket.

 

Water under the bridge now.

Like I said, I'd also have to drill out the spindles to 12mm.

This way, they just bolt right up together. And I have spare links and uni balls. It is what it is at this point.

By the time I hit the trail it'll be
New rack
New pump
New cooler
New links
New LBJs
New spindles
New CVs

That should be good for a season or 2 of wheeling

 

I guess I'll keep moving while I wait on the LBJs.

 

The failure point I was referring to was the 4 bolt mounting method of the LBJ but I was looking at the XLT kit.

*EDIT* but looks like that kit is a nut and bolt setup, I would have way more confidence in that. It's hard to tell is that how the fabbed spindles would have mounted the LBJ's either way?

 

The LT spindles and the XLT spindles are WAY different. The lower ball joint mounts totally different. I believe it puts the uniball in the end of the lower control arm.

I debated just going with the XLT kit when I did the long travel but that's a huge chunk of money to throw down all at once... but... I'm pretty much at that same amount now. (Albiet spread out over 3 years).

XLT kit = $9045
RCV axles = $2295
Total = $11,340

LT kit = $3705
Fabbed spindles = $1950
LBJ/Steering conversion = $1690
RCV axles = $2295
Total = $9640

 

I don't know of any way to get rid of the crap 4 bolt design. Except the XLT kit with the double shear uniball.

XLT Kit comes with RCV axles for 9045. So I guess now we know whats cheaper haha

 

Ya, you're right. Pretty much the same thing only you have to to it all at once with the XLT.

And those numbers don't even include coilovers, hydrobumps, etc.

The cost all at once, and the added 2 inch overall of width were the 2 things that caused me to stick with the LT instead of the XLT.

Either way though... shit's hella expensive.


PS... the fully fabbed spindles do improve the 4 bolt issue somewhat by making two of the bolts 1/2 instead of 10mm, the other two bolts become 3/8 and the bolt goes through to a nut instead of 10mm.
At least the bolts get bigger.

 

I’ve been getting a burning plastic smell ever since I swapped in a new timing belt/water pump and serpentine belts. I have barely been driving the truck because it is salt season here. Anyone ever experienced this before? Truck seems to act perfectly normal no issues but the smell is strange and I can’t seem to locate it.

 

Yeah that's what I was referring to last night how it is a bolt and nut setup vs threaded into the spindle. I definitely have more faith in a clamping design like that bolt wise.

 

Bigger bolts definitely is nicer.


Yeah xlt is super wide. Not gonna be fun if you hit trails regularly. LT is wide enough.

 

Ya, even LT may be a problem on Dusy/Ershim trail (our favorite trail). It was tight with stock width.

 

Belts might be over tensioned

Ignition wires, anything unclipped and melting?

I'd also check the plastic cover (engine facing side) for any marks, perhaps its rubbing on something.

 

I tried Firestone for the same reason. But my location had people that didn't know how to adjust the SPC ball joints on the UPC so I went to a local offroad shop.

 

When I changed the timing belt on my new to me 5ZV-FE, one of the crankshaft guide washers was on backwards. The washers are coned outward to help guide the timing belt. Put on backwards, the washer digs into the side of the belt. Maybe you are smelling the timing belt "wear in".

 

Fuck I hope that isn't it haha. About 95% sure I got that right but could be it...