What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Truck bed can probably mount a 150KVA transformer

 

imagine being able to run everything on your truck with only 20ga wire

 

I added keyless entry for less than $20.

 

how did you bleed the brakes?

 

You’re supposed to bleed them?

Used the one person bottle bleeding method no issues ever though I do go through more fluid than probably necessary.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n1NvtUwfRJc&pp=ygUYYmxlZWQgYnJha2VzIGJ5IHlvdXJzZWxm

 

Hey Guy's... Used a Gatorade bottle after watching that one a while back and it's still sitting on my parts shelf

 

What’d you install? Or was it just a key fob that worked with your security system?

 

It's just remote keyless entry. My security system is the manual transmission .

My door lock on the driver's side sticks every now and then. Usually spraying a little graphite powder fixes it, but now that I've got the remote, I'll no longer have to walk around to the passenger side to unlock the door the next time the lock gets stuck.

 

I had a similar problem with my door lock. I took the core to a locksmith who told me that the problem is actually the keys wearing down over time, to the point that they don't fully engage the wafers in the lock. He "fixed" the problem by removing the wafers corresponding to the most work ridges on the key.

I say "fixed" in quotes because obviously this makes the lock less secure/easier to pick, but I view locks as "theft deterrent", not "theft prevention" and I highly doubt the missing wafers will be the make-or-break factor in my truck getting messed with.

Anyway, do what you want with that info. I think you can get a new key from a Toyota dealer cut to the original spec based on your VIN. If so, that might fix your sticking lock problems.

 

I think you're correct that my key is worn down, but the weird thing is that it works fine in the ignition and in the passenger door lock.

 

It was exactly like that with my truck too--I was going in through the passenger door.

I see what you're getting at though. I guess it's a combination of both the key and the lock wearing down, which still makes sense if you think about how a lock works. If the tall teeth on the lock get shorter, or if the corresponding wafers get shorter, the wafers won't line up to allow the lock to turn.

 

I got a pretty good local locksmith. I should get him to look at it. Seems like if pin tumblers are worn, they can be replaced. Of course, it's less of an issue now.

 

I did this today.

Added a wind deflector to my camper, I had this laying around and decided to use it.


Also noticed that my bed and cab were moving differently. Crawled under my bed and found one bolt missing, and another one loose. Tried to tighten it, and the captured nut broke off the channel plate.
So out came my house battery, and drilled a hole through the bed. I had to torch off the old bolt and installed a new one. This was not a fun project.

 

I think the key gets more worn than the lock. About 10 years ago my key was worn enough that it started not working well. First place I noticed it was the fuel door. Had to jiggle it and hold your tongue right to get it open. I just got my spare key, that is not worn at all, and had a copy made. Worked great. I’m going to have to do it again because I’m back to wiggling it on the fuel door. If you don’t have a pristine key to make a copy from, I’m told you can get a one from the dealership if you show them proof you own the truck and give them your vin number.

 

Removed my Leer topper and bed liner for the first inspection and cleaning since I’ve owned her. Fortunately no damage found and everything cleaned up nice, was wanting a spray on liner but just don’t have the money right now so had to change plans. Feels great to get that weight off the rear, drives like a truck now!

 

Can anyone lend me a hand to figure out how big of a wheel spacer i would need? Running these 3rd gen Tacoma wheels with 33x12.5 MTs. They’re 7.5” wide and 18 or 25mm offset (I’ve found conflicting info). Already have a 1” spacer and I run the frame horrible and I’m barely clearing the UCA. I’ve also realized my camber is off. The tires are sitting with the top out ever so slightly, so to get it correct I know the tires will be hitting the UCA. I keep going back and forth between a 1.5” and 2”. BORA has an option for 1.75” but the price for a full set is steep not knowing if it would work 100%. Trying not to have the tires super far out of the fender well. I’ve already been down that road with my other truck.

 

Don't go over 2 inch spacers. I've never run more than 1.25. And only use reputable spacers.

You really ought to consider getting aftermarket wheels. Stock Toyota wheels have trash offset. They're really no good for 33s.

People do it. I don't understand why. The only Toyota wheels that have ever actually looked good are the 4 Runner TRD pro wheels. (And they aren't very good for 33s either).

 

Newer gen tacoma wheels are inset about 1'' more than OEM 1st gen wheels. So your 1'' spacer gets you back to close to stock offset. That said with a 12.5'' wide tire, stock offset is not enough.

You'll probably want 1.5'' spacers. I ran those for years on 33x12.5r15s without issue. Helps to get ET thread lugs to hold the spacers on especially the fronts as the studs are short. use a torque wrench. Never had one ever come loose. I wouldn't go bigger than 1.5'' though.

 

I’m finding that out about stocks and 33s. Wheel and tire set up was already on the truck when I purchased it. Just making do with what I have for now while I tend to other more pressing matters on the truck.

Thank you blackdawg! This is the insight I’ve been trying to get.

 

yeah you might be better off just getting different wheels. But can try the spacers first. They are cheaper after all. I ran 33x12.5r15s with 4'' Back spacing but they were on 8'' wheels. Since yours are 7" they might not be offset enough even with the spacers.