What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

That looks like a lot of fun.

 

I do. It seems rather simplified. Now mind you, I've never done anything like this so my ignorance my be making it seem more difficult than it really is.

This is what I have:

 

The OEM joints will last an easy 100K mile. All LBJ boots will seep grease. It means nothing with OEM. Aftermarket joints with zerks are cheapo metal on metal construction and NEED to be greased. The OEM type "polished ball/PTFE liner" needs no additional lube. What seeps out is just "extra".

Catastrophic failure of a ball joint could easily kill.

If you haven't, read this entire thread. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/274297-lower-ball-joints.html
Additionally I have seen more endorsements from reputable sources about the Raybestos "Pro Grade" line recomended by "KenLyns", not the cheaper line they offer. I officially now say OEM then the Raybestos Pro Grade and skip Moog/555.
As a follow up, more and more Moog/555 problems are cropping up and I will be editing the links in this post accordingly.

Take a look at post #41 here. http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/1st-gen-tacomas/266989-ball-joints-3.html

 

Time for LT

 

Yeah I read those threads last night. Thanks for all the info.

 

I did the same thing, never installed them. They used about the cheapest rod ends made. They have been taking up space on the shelf for 12 years

I would be happy to talk you through it over PM and or phone if we can arrange a mutually acceptable time.
I didn't see it mentioned, maybe I missed it, you will need a torque wrench and the shock must be removed. It really is a pretty straight forward procedure and I would recommend, buy/borrow/rent a puller as opposed to a hammer or pickle fork.

 

Yeah, I think it's about time to buy a torque wrench. I can't justify a snap-on one, which I know are best, but I was thinking a Husky or Craftsman for $80-100 ish.

And yeah, the youtube video I watched of a guy doing it on a pre-95 Toyota pick up, used the puller. Seemed more efficient to use.

Thanks for the offer... I might Skype you when it comes to it so you can walk me through it

 

Yeah, Moog is the best for lbj's. I simply go through boots rather quickly. OEM were no different...

Not really........... Only replace spindle if it's damaged.

Meh, shock method has never worked for me. It might be worth it to try though... Like I mentioned, if you thread the castle nut backwards on the stud to protect the threads, it's very unlikely you'll mushroom the bolts. Especially if you use a small block of wood to dampen blows, or if you use a brass hammer like I do. (I should have said that earlier.) But yeah, not sure what I'm doing wrong, but I've never been able to free a ball joint via the shock method.

If you have one, a pitman arm puller is the safest method. (Like what SafetyDang used in the vid to pull the tre stud) You could probably rent one, too...

That it! It really is pretty simple, though.

 

FWIW a pitman arm puller worked perfect for me on the TRE's. I used a BFH on the LBJ because I was replacing it anyway.

 

Are these worth selling? If so, how much you think I should try to get from them (local classifieds)? Stock suspension 102k.

 

$100

 

added a bottle of cataclean just to see what happens.

No idea on the history of the Cat but I do know it failed smog 2 years ago and still has the stock or stock replacement cat. No rattling but I'm gonna have it back-pressure checked next Friday too.

 

thanks! i'll post it up as OBO

 

Awesome! I grew up riding one of those. Total blast.

 

Nothing. Honestly. Who wants to spend 100 bucks on 100k stock suspension? I be the bushings are shot and shocks are shot.

 

Those are factory "TRD" shocks with the skinny body Billies. Not to be confused with aftermarket Billies. The bushings are all toast or missing, one of the lower eyes looks bent.
The shocks and the TRD progressive coils were considered a nearly worthless option when new. The springs would sag dramatically in 10K-20K miles, sometimes less.
Those shocks/coils today are worthless except to someone that wants the fronts to sort of "hold their truck up" while their real shocks are being serviced and that's just the fronts.

The top plates have a little value, $10-$15 and the u-bolts have the most value of the group, you might get $20 for all 4 on a good day if they are in good shape.

There is a sucker born every minute but that would be your call.

 

Yea you're right. Rear bushings were all gone and the front bushings for the strut assemblies are trash.

I changed the price to $50. If I don't get any bites before I move back home to Hawaii at the end of August then to the trash they go

Yea I'm not expecting much interest but there might be that one person that might NEED them. Idk no biggie for me if they end up in the trash.

 

Removed the factory hardware from my rattling heat shield and tightened it down with some new stainless stuff. No more annoying rattle whenever I'm at about 1800 rpm.

 

285s

 

been working in a shop for years and did it the way he described hundreds of times and never fucked anything up. where did you get certified to be a mechanic?