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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Apr 19, 2014 at 4:18 PM
    NoTown98Yota

    NoTown98Yota Whiskey Throttle FTW!

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    Scott
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    '98 Tacoma 3.4L V6 W/E-Locker
    -Leer shell with Yakima MegaWarrior -K&N FIPK -18" Magnaflow dumped after axle -Clear headlights -Blacked out bumpers, wheels, badges, mirrors, fuel door, door handles, tail lights, corner markers and turn signals -White LED gauge lights -SpiderTrax 1.5" Spacers -Pinch Weld Mod -Ultra Gauge -6 Switch Plate under single din stereo -Custom Battle Born bedside decals -Eibach 620# coils -Bilstein 5100's -Dakars -Toytec 1" Lift Shackles
    HAHAHA good luck with that.
     
  2. Apr 19, 2014 at 4:23 PM
    lotsoftoys

    lotsoftoys pavement is boring....

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    bunch of crap
    lol


    dont jinx me..... im gonna try real hard
     
  3. Apr 19, 2014 at 4:26 PM
    Dirty Pool

    Dirty Pool FLIES ON THE FRIES, KETCHUPS WATERED DOWN

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    59.4 Miles, 56.67° NE Of Moab
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    Dirty Pool rear bumper/air tank with integrated spare CV shaft storage, DP customized TJM front bumper, 8000 lb Ramsey/Technora rope, E-locked, Extended breathers with front diff catch can, PCV catch can, SAWs with DP heim joint seals, DP custom 6 leaf rear springs/Billies, DP custom skids, 2lo, Gray wire, Cap, Bed Rug, Black steelies, 01 Center console, Map lights, Disraeli gears
    Protruding fasteners on a skid plate are poor design. Counter sunk socket head screws are not much better. Folks have tried and failed at mounting skids since Tacoma day one. The stock mount points for a front skid are barley strong enough to support the weight of the skid alone. They are OK for the mall, not the crawl.

    OEM rear mount, from the factory lightly tack welded in place and consisting of just a strip of not even 1/8" sheet metal, with holes in it for that matter.
    SKDPLT020_569263bba84e5ee7b1f9f6e4a3042e58c571cf39.jpg

    Recessed mount. The wimpy week ass OEM weld nut strip was replaced with with 1/4" plate spanning and filling the U channel portion of the cross member with heavy flange nuts welded behind. Of course the ridiculously flimsy front mount was replaced with a real cross member. This has been standard procedure for IFS Tacos long before this forum came about. An additional benefit is the skid can be located right up against the cross member providing even more ground clearance than the stock skid foil.
    SKDPLT016_f81e2b51e129194b1cdc08b62492848a1692bb4e.jpg

    SKDPLT011_b65555f2830e1d5a91034f5fb5f4ee65ede0eaa2.jpg
     
  4. Apr 19, 2014 at 4:28 PM
    Vann

    Vann Well-Known Member

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    Garth
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    '04 x-cab 4x4, 2.7 5sp. "The Black Pearl"
    stock
    New rear shocks, KYB MonoMax, somehow they fixed the "bro lean" Next is the fronts.
     
  5. Apr 19, 2014 at 4:33 PM
    nagorb

    nagorb Should be a dang perma mod

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    He's an engineer, nuf said
     
  6. Apr 19, 2014 at 4:54 PM
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Chris
    Concord, NC
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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    Just fine for now. I really don't think I'm going to have any issues out of it. I'll probably put a bend in it eventually but you'll do the same to every other skid on the market. The only way to really hurt that shit would be full weight of the truck landing down on a hard object.
     
  7. Apr 19, 2014 at 4:56 PM
    presto

    presto Well-Known Member

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    san francisco
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    Fully armored on 33’s
    Soo I was just changing my transmission fluid and unfortunately I don't have a very accurate torque wrench. When I was putting my drain pan bolt back in I threaded it by hand almost all the way and now its just spinning and I can't even get the bolt out.. I've tried pulling on it while turning and that doesn't seem to be working.. Any suggestions?
     
  8. Apr 19, 2014 at 5:01 PM
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    Maybe try grabbing it with a pair of channel locks or vise-grips if the threads are fubar not like you can hurt them any more. Try twisting and pulling at the same time if you think the threads are fubar which it sounds like they are.
     
  9. Apr 19, 2014 at 5:04 PM
    presto

    presto Well-Known Member

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    Fully armored on 33’s
    I don't have vise grips but I just tried for like 10minutes with channels. I'll try with a bigger pair of channels I guess.. What happens when I get the bolt out?

    Thanks
     
  10. Apr 19, 2014 at 5:22 PM
    presto

    presto Well-Known Member

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    Hmm really doesn't seem like the bolt is coming out I've been pullin pretty damn hard while turning.. So I guess my big question is can I put like RTV or fipg around the bolt until I can get a new pan or something??
     
  11. Apr 19, 2014 at 5:49 PM
    HBtaco02

    HBtaco02 Well-Known Member

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    So true. I broke my drivers side skid mount 1st time I hit it. Very poorly made.
     
  12. Apr 19, 2014 at 6:02 PM
    nagorb

    nagorb Should be a dang perma mod

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    Choice is to get a new pan, weld a but on the back side, or use an insert. For a tranny pan I would just go with a new pan since it would be a good time to either clean or replace the filter. In the meantime you might be able to use fipg. I don't know it it would work though, that's above my pay grade:)

    What make?
     
  13. Apr 19, 2014 at 6:07 PM
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    Shouldn't need a new pan. Just need to get the bolt out and drill and tap it to put a heli-coil in.
     
  14. Apr 19, 2014 at 6:09 PM
    presto

    presto Well-Known Member

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    I like the idea of welding the nut from the inside of pan.. Considering I just used 60% of my fipg when putting the pan back on after changing the filter I'll just wait to see if leaks with fipg over the bolt. If it does then I'll have to drill a small hole in the pan to drain it and re weld the hole and the bolt.

    Thanks for the idea.
     
  15. Apr 19, 2014 at 6:11 PM
    Redneck92

    Redneck92 Well-Known Member

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    Just the norm skids, sliders, & 35's
    You used way to much if you used almost 2/3 of a tube. A thin bead all the way around is all you need
     
  16. Apr 19, 2014 at 6:17 PM
    presto

    presto Well-Known Member

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    I tried as hard as I could to pull/turn it. I even had a gasket scraper pried between the pan and the bolt while pulling down/turning with channels. Don't really know what else I could do? I guess hopefully the fipg will hold because I already smoothered the bolt with it lol..
     
  17. Apr 19, 2014 at 6:36 PM
    SilverGhost

    SilverGhost Well-Known Member

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    RayRay
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    02,03 some 04, it's complicated
    #junkyardparts
    url=http://www.tacomaworld.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/399722/cat/500][​IMG][/url] welded up som sliders
     
  18. Apr 19, 2014 at 7:27 PM
    nagorb

    nagorb Should be a dang perma mod

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    No you don't need a new pan but I don't trust inserts and pans are fairly cheap around 60 if I remember correctly.

    The rat product guy or an engineering student, from what I remember. Not all but in my experience many engineers think they know everything yet it's the guys that build the shit that have to did all their problems.
     
  19. Apr 19, 2014 at 7:33 PM
    4banger4x4

    4banger4x4 Probably should'nt have done that.

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  20. Apr 19, 2014 at 7:35 PM
    Blackdawg

    Blackdawg Dr. Frankenstein

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    The Trifecta of Taco's
    ALL OF THEM!...Then some more.

    when i was in the oil field for a summer working..the mechanics and welders there..loath engineers with a passion. Cause no matter what happens..they ALWAYS have to go through EVERYTHING that is made up there or sent to them to work or whatever..and fix it haha

    Very cliche thing..but..still very true in a lot of ways..
     

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