What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Yes I do have access to a 50 ton press.

After doing a little more research I don't think I need it because I have ADD and not manual hubs.

"If you are doing a conversion, you only have to take that nut off, but you don't have to put it back on. That nut is only used in two wheel drive trucks to hold the wheel bearings together. In the 4wd trucks the axle and 35mm axle nut holds it all together, and the special nut is not installed. So if you are not going to put the two wheel drive spindle back together, forget the special nut and just take it off with an air hammer and chisel or something.

That nut is definately needed, it is what holds the hub onto the bearing. if it isnt there, your hub will eventually work it's way out of the spindle, leaving you with no front wheels!

$67 OTC7941 OTC 7941 Hub Locknut Socket Wrench for Toyota

OTC7941 is the equivelant of the toyota sst, and can be bought online. Search the part number in google and many sources will pop up.

For the manual hub, the outer 35? mm nut is not used, and a snap ring is used to hold the axle in the hub (from the outside). Then, the manual "switch" is installed over the axle and on the hub.


Just to clarify:
-ADD systems use the 35mm nut on the end of the axle hub
-4WD manual hub trucks (and conversions) use the 4-prong nut behind the bearing

These are used to hold the hub in the bearing so the wheel doesn't fall off.

Toyota does have a SST. We've used it. It sucks and likes to break. The best we've found (still breaks every now and then) is the OTT socket, OTT PN 4543-1. We sell this at $52.95, ORS-HB020. This OTT version can also be found through Snap On, Mac, etc. Sometimes they sell it in a set with other sockets that work with other above mentioned applications.

Hope we helped instead of clutter.....

Here is our socket: (http://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/manual_hub_conversion.htm)"


Please tell me this is teh troof!!!

 

Im not saying they arnt good, if you come anywhere close to the cost of an ARB it would not be my choice. If you found one cheaper it would be the way to go. However if you get anywhere close to the ARB price its a no brainer. An elocker can run anywhere from $500-$1000. They are a pain in the dick to install if you don't have the factory housing. They are not known for their reliability. If you Google broken Tacoma elocker or my locker wont unlock you will find a million different issues. Unfortunately a lot of the time you need a new actuator which are expensive (and why they sell cable shift kits). The Ring gear in the 8.4 is probably not really much stronger.

Edit: I just rebuilt mine, and found I have a broken actuator housing. problems you wont have with an ARB.

 

This.

You will need a press. And I have heard it's a major bitch.

 

Would a 1.5 ton arbor press work for this? I have a press looking for uses around the garage.

 

I doubt it. From what I have read a 20 ton barely cuts it

 

Do you have the OME extra leaf in that pack?

 

I wheeled with Dispatch and another club member this past weekend. Good times and great weather.


IROHVA2014 by dblcabmn, on Flickr


IROHVA2014 by dblcabmn, on Flickr


IROHVA2014 by dblcabmn, on Flickr


IROHVA2014 by dblcabmn, on Flickr

 

^^ Nice Pics

 

Looks like fun!

 

No elockers at your shop. I only have one left and it is in my shed. I may use it if I decide to go 4.30.

Modding his 8.4" housing would be hard to do. Only on 3rd gen 4Runners is it relatively easy to mod the housing. This is because both the elocker and open diff housings are 8" on 3rd gen 4Runners. If finding a Tacoma elocker housing is too hard to do, modding a 3rd gen 4Runner housing is also an option if one is dedicated. The 4Runner elocker housings are also stronger than Tacoma elocker housings. The Tacoma housings are necked down quite a bit towards the ends.

 

Nope. That is basic Dakar with OME greasable shackles (no added height) but I took out the pucks. This is only 24 hours and a couple short drives after install. 881s in front.

Tires are stock TRD size 265/70/16

 

Put my Marlin shifter seat in last night. Took a lot of the slop out of the shifter. Old rubber seat was soft and starting to break apart. No pictures since it was dark out. I did it on my 92 and now my 02 and it's one of the easiest, quickest and best mods for the money you can do.

 

I swapped on into my 97. I am working on the wiring for it. I plan to make it 100% factory looking and operating, so it will have the control box and the dash switch. It is not difficult at all if you want to make your own wiring.

No, if you have ADD you do not have the nut, thus no need for the special tool. It does take some work still. You have to remove the entire steering knuckle, press the wheel hub out, remove the seal and snap ring, then press out the bearing. After that it is reverse going back together. Just make SURE that you torque the nut to spec. That is the most vital part of the whole job.

No it wouldn't. I had a 12 ton press and bent the arbor pressing a Tacoma bearing apart. I now use a 20 ton press with no problems.

 

Replacing flexplate and front and rear main seals. Got everything ordered through work. I got OEM seals through our wear house but I could only get a pioneer flexplate. I don't have to pay for it til it get here so I'm wanting to know what y'all think about pioneer flexplates? Should it be fine or should I go OEM? If OEM then where should I get it from cuz dealership wants way too much

 

The ride is awesome. Rear seems much more consistent ride quality with the front now.

 

Also are there any off-road places or anything that sale more heavy duty flexplates since there is more of a strain on it from my setup

 

Flex plates? The top hats on OEM coilovers?

You shouldn't have that on your saws...

 

Yup, pretty sure all coilovers have built in top hats...