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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Jan 11, 2016 at 10:31 PM
    Digiratus

    Digiratus Adventurer

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    A failing rear axle bearing does not make a clunking noise. More of a rhythmic vibration. Ask me how I know.
     
    tibblits920[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:10 PM
    Tacomang

    Tacomang Well-Known Member

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    How do you know good sir? I'm getting a similar vibration now around 40-50mph its more noticeable. I'm also considering what to do about these pesky ball joints. I want to replace all 4 corners, but the uppers need a new control arm right? What's a good option for a DD weekend warrior/mall crawler? Uniball seems like a lot of maintenance.


    Tested out the new tires in some snow and mud, these KO2 are insanely grippy compared to the older KO. Black oak LED makes a confirmed waterproof product :)
    tldr.jpg
     
    FirstGen Jer and tibblits920 like this.
  3. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:11 PM
    06toyoboy

    06toyoboy Well-Known Member

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    Added some light to the bed
    Before, all dark in the garage
    After, only the bed light kit
     
    FirstGen Jer likes this.
  4. Jan 11, 2016 at 11:52 PM
    Adventurer_Alex

    Adventurer_Alex Generic mall crawler

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    Nope, upper ball joints are separate from the uca. Somebody will correct me if I'm wrong but I believe there are 4 bolts holding the upper ball joint to the uca and a castle nut holding it on the spindle. Pretty simple to change :)
     
  5. Jan 12, 2016 at 12:35 AM
    WheelInTheSky

    WheelInTheSky Ramblin' Man

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    Just remove the castle nut and the UCA will flip up and off of the UBJ stud. Push the ball joint out of the spindle and you're good to go.
     
  6. Jan 12, 2016 at 5:46 AM
    tibblits920

    tibblits920 Tacos Everywhere!

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    Thanks..I'll have to check to see if that's what's happening
     
  7. Jan 12, 2016 at 6:56 AM
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    I just got those tires too :) they ride extremely smooth so far! (To my surprise) AND quiet!
     
  8. Jan 12, 2016 at 7:12 AM
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    Nice! Im loving the look of them.
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2016
  9. Jan 12, 2016 at 7:21 AM
    ThunderOne

    ThunderOne Well-Known Member

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    Well I guess that's good! Wonder what the heck this clunking is? I already took out the hitch so I know it's not that..
     
  10. Jan 12, 2016 at 8:14 AM
    frizzman

    frizzman Well-Known Member

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    the lower ball joint has 4 bolts connecting it to the spindle. the upper ball joint is pressed into the spindle. both are attached to the control arms by the post/ball and held by a castle nut.

    the entire spindle can be removed by removing the upper and lower BJ castle nuts (and the CV hub nut for 4wd).
     
    m3bassman likes this.
  11. Jan 12, 2016 at 9:20 AM
    Adventurer_Alex

    Adventurer_Alex Generic mall crawler

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    I was just talking about taking the upper ball joint out, not removing the entire spindle. Went would he do that to change ball joints? Lol
     
  12. Jan 12, 2016 at 9:28 AM
    Squeaky Penguin

    Squeaky Penguin Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    Removing the spindle is the easiest way to change the upper ball joint. The lower ball joint is bolted to the spindle with 4 bolts, but the upper is pressed into the spindle. Swapping the upper is best done with a shop press or you might get lucky with a ball joint press you borrow from an auto parts store.
     
  13. Jan 12, 2016 at 9:40 AM
    Adventurer_Alex

    Adventurer_Alex Generic mall crawler

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    O gotcha, i used an air hammer and pushed it right out super easy.

    Take castle nut off, flip it over screw it back on far enough that its flush with the top of the threads and hit it with the air hammer for 3 seconds. Pops rightoff
     
  14. Jan 12, 2016 at 9:45 AM
    Squeaky Penguin

    Squeaky Penguin Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    I'm somewhat surprised that was enough to remove them. Last time I did them was with a shop press and it takes quite a lot of force unseat them. Also, how then did you install the new ones?

    Regardless, if you're changing upper and lower ball joints, you've essentially removed the spindle anyways.
     
  15. Jan 12, 2016 at 9:53 AM
    tacomatrd22

    tacomatrd22 TRD SuperCharged Tacoma

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    Yes it will, can't wait until it's done. I can beat any V8 truck I want :D but your heading the right way.
     
  16. Jan 12, 2016 at 9:54 AM
    Adventurer_Alex

    Adventurer_Alex Generic mall crawler

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    Yeah that was the other part, I didn't change my lowers at the same time.

    I used an impact on the castle nut and screwed it on/press it in
     
  17. Jan 12, 2016 at 9:58 AM
    Squeaky Penguin

    Squeaky Penguin Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    Are you saying you put the tapered stud through the UCA, and seated the ball joint in the spindle by cranking on it? Because if so, In would highly recommend against doing it that way.
     
  18. Jan 12, 2016 at 10:04 AM
    Adventurer_Alex

    Adventurer_Alex Generic mall crawler

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    Yeah this was back on my 5 lug but that's how we did it
     
  19. Jan 12, 2016 at 10:11 AM
    Squeaky Penguin

    Squeaky Penguin Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    Yeah, we're comparing apples and oranges here. Breaking the taper of the stud is the same on both, and very easy. I usually just hit upwards on the lip of the UCA. But whereas the 5 lugger UBJ is bolted to the control arm, on the 6 lugger it is press fit into the spindle. That's the real bitch, not the tapered stud.
     
  20. Jan 12, 2016 at 11:27 AM
    Tacomang

    Tacomang Well-Known Member

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    Well darn I was hoping it was a good enough excuse to get tc ucas and a mid travel coilover :)
     

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