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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Apr 12, 2016 at 3:21 PM
    TacoVio

    TacoVio Well-Known Member

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    R.I.P '04 Roy Super White ^^
    '00 TRD, Greenbean!, Armor, lifted, Flatty, stuff.
    Looks like a good setup for me. So you welded the plate on the inside correct? Still pretty stable too? If you know the measurements, how far out are the lower mounts from the back of the brake drum? I looked at boxrockets setup too but I didn't like it because his mounts were pushed in towards the center a little too far.

    I really need to invest in a welder...
     
  2. Apr 12, 2016 at 4:22 PM
    sente3

    sente3 -

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    Sliders, rear bumper, front skid, lifted
    Applied the Rain-X to the windshield and side mirrors. Now I've got original Rain-X, their washer fluid, and their Latitude wipers. Looking forward to the next rain storm so I can see how well their stuff can "outsmart the elements".
     
    Chipskip likes this.
  3. Apr 12, 2016 at 4:36 PM
    Tacomang

    Tacomang Well-Known Member

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    So youre relocating for 10" shocks? Why not just ubolt flip and weld lowers and use the stock uppers on the frame? Thats what I did
     
  4. Apr 12, 2016 at 4:44 PM
    alphabravo

    alphabravo Well-Known Member

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    Supercharger AntiDark Hood Light Redline Tuning Hood Struts Morimoto Projectors Grey Wire Mod Tundra 13WL Brake Conversion EBC ED Pads and GD Rotors Mean Green Starter DC Power 250A Alternator Odyssey PC2150 Battery, Artec Cage ADS shocks Total Chaos UCA ComeUp Winch, Factor 55 Splicer Relentless bumpers OTRATTW Switches, Bussman 15304-2-2-4 RTMR, Paranoid Fabrication switch brackets Jensen JHD3630BT Morimoto XB LED Fogs Deaver Custom Springs Ivan Stewart TRD Wheels, Pro Series TRD Wheels
    Is that a plastic key?
     
  5. Apr 12, 2016 at 4:46 PM
    TacoVio

    TacoVio Well-Known Member

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    R.I.P '04 Roy Super White ^^
    '00 TRD, Greenbean!, Armor, lifted, Flatty, stuff.
    Yeah but if I'm gonna relocate I'm gonna do it to maximize travel and get off the stock mounts even though it still will be the same location as the uppermounts as in a cross member up top directly where the driver side top mount is now. Make sense?
     
  6. Apr 12, 2016 at 4:56 PM
    GreenMachine8

    GreenMachine8 Well-Known Member

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    Elko, NV
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    1996 Olive Drab Tacoma DLX 2.7L 4X4
    Off road fiber glass, rhino lined olive drab, retrofit headlights, kings/total chaos mid travel suspension.
    Just finished the interior on my 96! Went from grey to a black, I'll get pictures taken when it quits rainin!
     
  7. Apr 12, 2016 at 4:59 PM
    Squeaky Penguin

    Squeaky Penguin Nothing Ventured, Nothing Gained

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    Yeah, plate is about 4" wide IIRC and welded on the inside of the frame. I've had CBI frame plates on the outside for a while too. What do you mean pretty stable? That crossmember is not going anywhere.

    As far as the axle mounting, if you look at your axle this is some kind of line/mold, they're just outside of that. When I redo it shortly, I'll probably move them further out.

    Boxrocket's setup was shit for anything other than flexing IMO, and even then, not a proper solution. He was still limited to the 8" of vertical travel or whatever the OME rear shocks had, and only moved them inboard because the shock travel is then less than wheel travel for flexing. Decreasing all other aspects of shock performance, just to gain a little flex makes no sense to me. Similar approach to angling the shocks in at a ridiculous angle.

    Anyways, I've tried half-assing it too, in the end you only waste time. Break down your leaf pack, cycle, measure travel, setup shocks and bumps accordingly. My setup works, but there's a reason I'm about to redo it...
     
  8. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:00 PM
    KeptOnChooglin

    KeptOnChooglin Well-Known Member

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    I burned a bunch of plastic at Amazon



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    I dont want to open the doors up twice, so I will deaden/etc, then put the Polks in.
    I will do the rest of the work after the doors some time.

    I ordered Paranoid Fabrication 4x ashtray switch holder.

    I also ordered 4 OSRAM bulbs from Susquehenna motorsports.
     
    SWYPER, JKU3000 and FirstGen Jer like this.
  9. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:18 PM
    TacoVio

    TacoVio Well-Known Member

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    '00 TRD, Greenbean!, Armor, lifted, Flatty, stuff.
    As in when loaded is the truck pretty stable with the shocks like that right now? Yeah I didn't like his solution. And I want them to be as close to the wheels as possible. But what do you mean break down the meatpacking and then measure? Leave like one leaf on or??
     
  10. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:19 PM
    TacoVio

    TacoVio Well-Known Member

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    '00 TRD, Greenbean!, Armor, lifted, Flatty, stuff.
    Do you have them like | | and angled back some?
     
  11. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:20 PM
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    big bear lake, CA / lake havasu, AZ
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    1999 toyota tacoma 3.4l v6 sr5 4x4
    Relentless rear all welded and grinded. Now to paint or powder coat or line-x/bedline? Also gonna install some flood light pods.
    2016-04-12_10.24.50.jpg
    2016-04-12_10.33.37.jpg
     
    ttaM, JKU3000, alphabravo and 5 others like this.
  12. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:21 PM
    TacoVio

    TacoVio Well-Known Member

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    R.I.P '04 Roy Super White ^^
    '00 TRD, Greenbean!, Armor, lifted, Flatty, stuff.
    Not a fan of that. Feel like it would be too unstable
     
  13. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:30 PM
    gray223

    gray223 Well-Known Member

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    Take the pack apart to just have the main leaf, put a block of wood or something between the main leaf and axle housing to represent the other leafs you took out( so the measuements are accurate to when the full pack is in). Then you can see the full drop and compression of the leaf back. Full compression will be when the leaf start to go negative arch. If you have dakars you can go a tad negative since they are designed to be somewhat flat and cycle between positive and negative.you can then see how far the axle when droop and how much it will compress. These measurements will determine the shock length relative to its position.

    Have you ever thought about going to the outside of frame. That will be the most stable.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2016
  14. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:47 PM
    TacoVio

    TacoVio Well-Known Member

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    R.I.P '04 Roy Super White ^^
    '00 TRD, Greenbean!, Armor, lifted, Flatty, stuff.
    I understand that now Thanks. I'll have to read up on getting actual measurements though!
     
  15. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:49 PM
    TacoVio

    TacoVio Well-Known Member

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    R.I.P '04 Roy Super White ^^
    '00 TRD, Greenbean!, Armor, lifted, Flatty, stuff.
    Yeah I dont think dakars are as stiff as deavers but I could be wrong!
     
  16. Apr 12, 2016 at 5:49 PM
    because_wumbo-truck

    because_wumbo-truck TTC#036 1st Degenerate Urban Off-Roader

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    Sliders and bumper, DDI injectors, flowmaster 40
    I thought it was the other way around
     
  17. Apr 12, 2016 at 6:02 PM
    malburg114

    malburg114 Well-Known Member

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    Turned out really good! I always got all my stuff powder coated except for my steps/sliders. Ended being about the same price to have it all powder coated compared to bedlining them myself.
     
    FirstGen Jer[QUOTED] likes this.
  18. Apr 12, 2016 at 6:03 PM
    TacoVio

    TacoVio Well-Known Member

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    Kolton
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    R.I.P '04 Roy Super White ^^
    '00 TRD, Greenbean!, Armor, lifted, Flatty, stuff.
  19. Apr 12, 2016 at 6:08 PM
    FirstGen Jer

    FirstGen Jer Well-Known Member

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    Thanks! Have got a quote to have it powder coated for around $100. Thinking of paint maybe as well. Way easier to touch up when it gets roughed up/scratched
     
  20. Apr 12, 2016 at 6:11 PM
    malburg114

    malburg114 Well-Known Member

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    $100 bucks is a pretty good deal if you ask me. Just touch it up with spray paint on a foam brush or leave the marks. Shows its not a show truck :luvya:
     
    FirstGen Jer[QUOTED] likes this.

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