What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I didn't even think about that...

 

Some call it redneck, but to Tacoma owners this is innovation...

 

So I've had a wobble in the front end of the taco recently, I've done lower ball joints and inner/outer tie rods. Also replaced steering rack bushings with poly. It still wobbles around 50+ mph, I'm thinking the tires wore uneven before I replaced all those parts and so continues to wobble or my steering rack is about shot allowing some back and forth play. I suspect the steering rack because at random the truck will decide to veer right or left while driving. There's no rhyme or reason it just steers at random now and then. Took it back to Toyota for another alignment yesterday and now pulls hard to the right. I don't know what the alignment guy was thinking, it's worse than it was before I took it in. I've also developed a slight screech when turning right, sounds like it's coming from the steering rack. I know it's hard to say without driving it, but you guys have any thoughts?

 

Nice work, Mike!

 

Trying to pick my next set of tires. I'll probably be 75% street & 25% offroad. Wanting good mileage with a nice wide look, which is impossible. So I'm thinking

Cooper at3s p rated. 285s. 14/32 45lbs
GY duratrac d rated. 285s. 18/32 53lbs
Hercules T/D d rated 33x12.50s 20/32 57lbs

Love the look of 12.50s, I have 17x9s w 4.5bs and 1" spacers so I'm in the ballpark for fitment wise. I'm mostly in mud, sand, pavement, and really anything on a normal trail.

 

I'd avoid P rated tires. Designed for passenger cars, very thin sidewall. The others are good choices though.

 

Well, that's what tacomas come stock with right? I'm not a rock crawler. I understand the fact that sticks or something of like like but that seems to be highly unlikely for me

 

I didn't say not to do it, just that I would avoid it. If you're fine with rarely taking it off road and only hauling the occasional couch, then you should be ok.

 

Clean Tacoma. The land cruiser in the background looks pretty good too!

 

Alright then, yall bring up a good point I suppose. So now 285s or 12.50s/305s

 

If you're wanting decent gas milage..

265s or 275s. Not 33s and definitely not a 12.5 wide tire.

Wide contact area=more friction and rolling resistance.

Plus super heavy.

Kiss mpg good bye with that.

 

Will it be that much of a difference between 285s and 12.50s?

 

a 285/70r17 is 32.7" x 11.2", that's not too bad. You won't need your spacers with the wheels you are running.
Your 17x9 wheels will definitely set them wide on the road as is.

 

I thought 1st gens needed 4"bs for 285s...?

 

going down the rabbit hole tonight...
Keep in mind that that "285" designation often is paired with 16x8 wheels, not 17x9.

Most, including me, can run a 16" x 8" wheel with 4.5" backspacing, with a tire up to 285x75r16. Rubbing will happen on the frame at full lock and of course bashing of the inner fender is needed. Some like to run spacers to avoid any rub, it does change your scrub radius and may cause more rubbing in the fender itself.

You 17x9 wheels with 4.5" backspacing actually stretch the tire, and set it more to the outer edge.
I know this because I have the same wheels and just went through it myself.
I'm running 285/75R17, which is a 34" tire, on a 17x9 wheel with 4.5" backspacing. They rub at full lock on the frame and I had to beat the piss out of the firewall just to the point of tubbing. Prolly should have tubbed it anyway

You need to do a ton of research before you make a purchase as a manufacturer's actual size's vary a lot too. You might also consider going to a smaller/narrower wheel.

16x8 with 4.5" backspacing is a 0 offset wheel, meaning it's centered.
17x9 with 4.5" backspacing is a -12 offset wheel and the offset is to the outside edge.

Mounting surface to inner edge of rim is the same with both wheels, 4.5".

 

Over an inch wider overall. So yes.

 

I've had good luck, so far, with my P-rated Michelins for the last 4 years, and have done quite a bit of offroading (Sierra 4x4 trails like Signal Peak, 2 trips to Death Valley area Jeep trails, Prairie City OHV, etc). The side walls are definitely thinner, and are more likely to rip open on sharp rocks, so I have to be more careful of the lines I take, and always have a good spare.

IMHO, for how I use my truck, the advantages of P-rated tires out-weigh the disadvantages.
Much better highway ride and handling, smoother offroad ride, better grip off-road when aired down, lighter, etc.

YMMV

 

I don't see how they give you better grip.

And aired down they are just scary and more likely to pop.

A Lt tire is worth it.

 

Put seat heaters in that I bought on eBay. The prep for Alaska continues.

 

Airing down (say 10 psi less) will allow the tread to 'conform' to the terrain better with a softer 2-ply sidewall tire, and have a bit larger footprint. With a stiffer sidewall, you'd have to air down more for the same effect.

Agreed, I'm increasing the likelyhood of a side-wall puncture, but I'm not doing the Rubicon or Fordyce either. I'm willing to take the chance with my current style of milder off-roading.
And, as I said, so far so good with the Tacoma.

In 20 years of offroading, I've only split sidewalls twice, both times on the Fordyce trail, with my previous rig that had 3-ply BFG's. So nothing is guaranteed.

All that said, if I decided to add 600 pounds of accessories (winch bumpers, winch, RTT, etc) or if I owned a brand new Tacoma, that is much heavier than my '99, I would not mount P-rated tires.