What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Generally its probably negligible in your most of our use. The real strength gain from a uniball comes when you can mount it double shear since the bolt passes all the way through instead of being a studded ball in a socket


A shock but same idea, single shear


double shear

 

They are they have misalignment pieces one them

 

Correct, the way our upper arm mounts it is not double shear. High end off road stuff will have them this way

 

You can tell he knows his stuff by the 3D computer image lol

 

Yeah DTF stuff is pretty sweet

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...rst-gen-race-kit-j-arm-upgrade-option.506984/

 

I want that damn it lol

 

Most just keep the single shear way, some say an OEM ball joint is just as strong as a single sheared uniball, some say the uniball is still better. But the big difference is if you redesign like that, but really only needed if you are smashing some serious rough stuff

 

I'm getting this loud clicking (like if you put a playing card in bicycle spokes) coming from somewhere on the transmission. The slower the truck is, the louder and more obvious it is. At about 30-40 the noise either blends in with the engine noise or disapears. Any ideas?

 

I love Solidworks !

 

I don't think I have ever heard of any major issue with them on 1st gens. I think that was a 2nd gen thing. They do however hit my fender wells at full bump. For me it's been more than just the zerks. Could be because my body mounts are wearing out.

 

Don't uniballs allow more articulation or is that a myth?

 

I think it depends on the uniball, size, spacers, etc.

 

Now that everything is here, just need a couple hours to do these tundra brakes. Thanks @gunny1005 for the fast shipping

 

For easy of maintenance and also a longer life span the SPC ones are the best option.

 

Jba is superior to Light racing in my opinion due to the fact there are no unnecessary adjustments to camber. Just one less thing for shops to screw up or bump out of spec while offroading.

 

It is locked in place mechanically with a little plate and really doen't mess with camber much, it is for caster correction which JBA does not have any adjustment to.

 

How is camber adjustment unnecessary?

 

Many cars do though from the factory, we're odd men out there. My old Explorer had top and bottom camber adjustments, friends subi had it on the strut and lower arm, I think it helps cause then you aren't throwing out caster everytime you go to correct the camber.

 

Yeah but then you can't do this.

 

The LR arms also allow you to max caster on the LCA cams, and fix the camber at the upper, which gains your clearance. Adding caster at the UCA takes it away.