What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I got a 4 runner dip stick from a junk yard and it was to long. I cut it it looks full.

 

haha it isn't an exact science thankfully

 

Does it mount to the engine block?

 

yes

 

No way it fits like that, maybe a picture would help but I would have to morph the hell out of it to make it mount there.

Make a pic would help, haha

 

I'll look for one.

 

QUOTE="SilverGhost, post: 9766873, member: 112635"][/QUOTE]

It's a horrible pic but if you look closely you can see the dip stick holder how it's suppose to face. this was my 2.7 this is the only pic I have with this motor sorry. maybe google it.

 

It's a horrible pic but if you look closely you can see the dip stick holder how it's suppose to face. this was my 2.7 this is the only pic I have with this motor sorry. maybe google it.[/QUOTE]

Ah so it goes in between the back two header pipes?

 

Ah so it goes in between the back two header pipes?[/QUOTE]


I think it goes next to the header and fastens to a heat shield bolt, kinda hard to tell.

 

Mine does that too Monte, in 4low, like the trans is slipping then slamming into gear. I haven’t needed to use it much wheeling in Arizona, but when I have I noticed that..and revs the shit too.

 

It's supposed to, just how autos react when you half the resistance

 

Okay, just thought it was odd. But I did go from a 92 pickup with the 3.0 manual.

 

With nothing stopping the rear output on the tcase it's going to grind going back into park. Like slamming a manual into gear with no clutch. Nothing relieving the pressure. Happens when the transmission is also under load shifting from drive or reverse right into park typically in 4low. I've learned to shift to neutral and let everything unload them into park.

Sit next to a jeep jk while in 4 wheel drive and listen to them shift to park. Makes the same sound unless they do the hole neutral thing.

When I finished my sas I tried to drive it around the block with just the front drive shaft and did the same thing. Nothing's stopping the rear output. Will do it till you get a rear driveshaft

@BartMaster1234

 

Ah so it goes in between the back two header pipes?[/QUOTE]



Here's a better picture.

 

PRERUNNER/4WD SWAP:
THE CONCLUSION
​

For better, or for worse... my truck is now 4WD. Well not really - I'm still missing a rear driveshaft so I'm driving around town in 4HI. I'm probably the only FWD Tacoma in the world right now.

Grinding when shifting went away once I filled the transmission to spec. Initially the grinding happened when I tried to shift to 4HI from D, but I have no rear driveshaft to stop the momentum of the gears on the inside and it resulted in the grinding.

I drove this truck to the garage as a 2WD PreRunner on December 27th, 2017 and drove it out of the garage in (almost) 4WD on January 10th, 2018. I worked on it on and off, and there were some days when I didn't work on it at all - hence the long time gap. People have done this swap on weekends.

It's been a long journey. Thanks to everyone who helped me along the way. I took LOTS of pictures, and yes I will be doing a write-up. I read through almost every single 4WD swap writeup I could find on here, and TTORA and none of them had the fine details that are absolutely imperative to know. (Like making sure you have the dipstick for the A340F, assuming my A340E one would work was an $85 mistake)

 

Thanks for the help - it actually stopped making grinding noises once I filled the tranny all the way to spec. There still seems to be a clunk but hopefully it'll be gone when I have my driveshaft shortened.

 

Does anyone know if the spc light racing uca's are good now? Last I remember they had some problems. Just trying to decide if I should get those or the all pro uca's. Money isn't the issue, but be nice to save the $150 if there just as good.

I do have to deal with salt and all that nasty stuff during the winter months so uni-balls will be a slight problem in terms of keeping up with them.

 

@BartMaster1234

Sorry can't help this time as I am out of town for a few days. When I get back, I'll check to see if you got your answer.

 

I think I remember reading something about them fixing whatever issues they had. When I get ready to buy Ucas I’m gonna look at Light racing and JBA.

 

I had to get my neighbor to help me remove the ARB, with winch and steel cable it was too heavy for one person to not get hurt trying it solo.
I REALLY needed to get this done since it was 50*F last night and expected to fall to 25*F today and stay WELL below freezing for the next week or longer!
I installed a new radiator, had some fitting problems in that the frame horn mounting brackets for my ARB decreased the frame width about 1/4". After unbolting the brackets and moving them outboard, the radiator slipped in between the frame rails!
New headlights and turn signals were installed too. However, I forgot to get pictures. This was the original radiator from 2001 and had gone 248K miles!