What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Haha that good work man, glad you kept it and got it back on the road. Nice touch with the ski goggles as well.

 

I work on some big flying machines and have bought Tekton wrenches. Haven’t been disappointed with what I have bought so you should be good with it, just keep up on its calibration and your set.

 

Did you do that because you engaged the actuator? You shouldn't need to manually push the gear inside unless you are removing the third. If you pulled the actuator, you should put the actuator back with that gear inside in the same position. My best guess is the actuator gear and the gear inside are not even engaging.

 

Just not sure what happen, I tested the actuator before when I was installing the wiring harness. It worked. I installed the rear axle and plugged in the harness and it wasn't moving. Gonna check the grey wire mod double check the pinouts. I took a picture of the pinouts before removing them from the old plug.

 

Battlescars look awesome.

 

Found something finally. So it looks like it has to be in the lock position.

 

My stock sized rotors and pads have been great for 215,000+ miles of city, highway, mountain pass and off road driving.

A great upgrade is a steel braided SS brake line.

 

How numb did your legs get?

 

Put in the lock position, mounted the actuator, turn key off, turn key on. RR lock light turns off so its unlock. GREAT. Try to lock, move passenger side wheel, move driver side wheel. Nothing.

 

This is an e-locker axle you are installing right? But you did not remove the third, correct?

If that's the case, this is likely what your issue is. This is what locked looks like:



The teeth are covering almost the entire hole. You said you pushed it all the way to the right, which is the proper thing to do but to a point. Like the FSM says, those gears need to be visually centered in the hole, so basically seeing a little of it in the top right. Chances are if you barely see any or don't see any of the gear at all, the actuator has nothing to grab.

 

Thing is it was able to 'unlock' when I put my key in. I know this because I had left the key in and went to reassemble by following the image I posted (locked position). Once I removed my key and put it back to 2nd ignition I heard the motor spinning to unlock so it had to have caught the teeth.

 

Yeah but if your button was set to the unlocked position, and then you put the actuator back in the locked position, I would assume then that your actuator now pushed the bar too far over, and now when you actuate the locker button, it would need to go double the distance it would normally need to turn to actuate? Again just a theory, I know the actuator spins based on the internal contacts on the rings in the actuator itself. Someone please chime in if I'm retarded haha

 

its a good thing I only used 2 bolts to hold it in place. Gonna take it out and check a couple things...

 

have you tried engaging it and driving a short distance? The elocker is not known as an "instantaneous" locker. Usually takes a few yards to engage.

Either that or your switch is wired backwards it sounds like.

 

All oem wiring but I'm gonna double check that too.

 

Ah this too. or jack the rear up, engage it and spin one of the wheels if he's got the grey wire mod done.

 

I've never had mine engage right away, it always takes at least a few feet of driving, if not more (and going under 10 mph or so).

 

anyone running 285/75R16 on stock steel 2nd gen wheels?

do you have to run wheel spacers?

 

Not running them, but the answer is yes. 2nd gen wheels have higher backspacing (tucked in). 5.25" I believe. You'll be all over the frame without spacers.

Edit: just saw you said steel wheels so I'm not sure on their BS. Imagine its close to the same though.

 

The truck was on the street, I hit the button, drove around the block in a complete circle back to my driveway. nothing.