What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

was that a complete flushed?

 

It was drained, but there was about 2-3 quarts left in the Torque Converter, and another 1-2 quarts still in the cooling system and in the valve body.

All in all, it took me 3.1 Gallons of ATF to fill the entire transmission.

You'll never get it all just by draining and filling it.

 

Sliders would be great way to combat door dings Plus a nice step to get in or to the top of a roof rack

 

I may have spare knobs, I'll look tonight/soon

 

You're the man

 

What is this product used for?

 

about half of which, went into the converter. Pretty standard on most RWD manual transmissions.

 

Encapsulating rust, it's a rock-hard coating which will stop rust dead in its tracks if applied according to label.

 

Under 200 is ideal

 

Agreed, by me and most engineering types.

There is no "one correct answer within +/- 5 degrees". Run it as cool as you can get it, so long as it's under 175 and above 100, has been my normal approach.

Now, I live in the hot/humid, rarely freezing, Southeast US. If diesel fuel gelling is a concern where you live, you might have different experience (though I sincerely doubt it- tranny fluid is made to flow at all realistic temperatures).

I run all of my coolers downstream of the OEM in-radiator cooler- then I run the absolute largest cooler I can find. If I recall, it's a cooler suitable for cooling a tranmission in a 5-ton RV, all by itself. Something like 12X15". It;s basically identical to the unit someone posted a few messages back. If I can't run it in front of the radiator, I run it under the vehicle, with a dedicated fan.

Other thoughts-
-stacked plate coolers are always superior to tube-fin coolers

-fill from the bottom up. Exhaust from the top. This forces the cooler to fill, and the fluid to get the optimum cooling. Otherwise, if you fill top down, exhaust from the bottom, the fluid will never fill the vessel and you will lose cooling efficiency- and introduce air into the fluid as it syphons through the cooler

-new cooler should be the second to last thing before return to the transmission. If you have a damaged in-tank cooler, it's acceptable to use an external alone- but you may overcool it in cold climates.

-consider an aftermarket, higher-capacity, pan, if you have the clearance. Don't use the models with the integrated cooling tubes- they really aren't going to do much other than collect garbage. While you're at this, get a pan with a drain bolt if yours doesn't have one.

-*ALWAYS* run an external filter. The filter in transmissions isn't much more than a few layers of window screen. External units filter better, change easier, and that encourages frequent servicing. I recommend the Magnefine filters, although there is a close second available at Oreilly and other parts houses. I will have the part number soon if you're interested- it's time to change the ones on my wife's ZJ.

-put that external filter as the very last thing before return to trans pan. If you're replacing the lines/cooler/any part of the system to include the transmission, be sure to blow out the lines while you have it apart- you'd be surprised at all the frag that gets into the system.

As for the filter- let me relate a story- I replaced my wife's 94 ZJ transmission at around 250,000 miles. I got lazy (mainly because it required a transmission fluid bath to change the fluid) and didn't do anything to it for over 90,000 miles. Being an electronically controlled transmission, it started shifting wierd- late shifts, wouldn't shift until you revved it high and then let off, etc. All classic symptoms of dirty fluid and thus dirty shift solenoids (they are after all, electromagnetic solenoids, and thus attract ferrous material in the fluid when it gets dirty. I tried one of these filters on a whim after doing some research (they have a fine filtration media, a magnetic to catch the ferrous material- thus breaking the wear chain- and a bypass valve in case they plug up). Literally a half hour in the parking lot at Oreilly, a couple compression fittings and a screwdriver to install, and the vehicle immediately drove like new after letting it idle for a few minutes to circulate the fluid through the filter. I later changed the fluid and the pan to a deeper unit with a drain plug, and now servicing the tranny is much easier. That was 60,000 miles ago, no issues since. $22 well spent!

Everything I am responsible for now has a filter on the PS and the AT circuit. They're that good.



BTW- get those filters here - https://www.magnefinefilters.com/NE...AqOWP0AnPYCNq6JUf3Liw6m5Di4EyHuhoC4GkQAvD_BwE

I will have a PN for the similar filter later tonight if there's interest.

Yes, I HAVE put way too much thought into this... why do you ask?

 

This came up recently, another member lost those clips too. As said unfortunately you can't buy them seperately.

$15 a knob shipped is not bad. Dealer list is $28 ea. I paid $11 each with my discount.

Be sure you get 01-04 though. Pre 01 knobs are a bit cheaper, they look the same from the front but they don't fit 01-04.

 

To prevent rust.

 

I think the idea is that it can live longer than that. These are all arbitrary numbers, although I can speak from experience in saying if you let a 700R4 run around 250 regularly, it's going to last about a week at most. (Though to be fair, I think the bigger issue was a lack of inline filtration).

I have put in the effort and learned these lessons the hard way- went through 4 transmissions on my S10 before I bought books, tools, dug into research, and built my own.

 

Why not try a little bit of Goop, or Shoe Goo? And I do mean *a little*.

Don't know what they make that stuff out of, but it is freaking tenacious!

 

Oh no not me, I didn't need the clips. I super glued my clips into the knobs the first time they came out the knobs.

I'm not the type to use Goop or glue for reasons like that. Plus I wouldn't risk gluing the knobs on in case you ever have to take the radio/ac vent bezel off.

 

LOL

 

Yessir, I realize. I was just trying to keep the suggestion on the same thread of the general convo.

Have to agree it would be a last ditch effort- and gluing the clips into the knobs is brilliant. We had a similar issue on the wife's ZJ, will do the same.

 

My sincerest condolences

 

Just make sure whatever glue you use to glue the clips into the knobs is fully dry before putting the knobs back on..... or you'll be screwed!

I was worried about that. Although super glue dries fast, I glued them at night & put them back on in the morning.

 

Serviced the transmission this morning. Kind of ironic with the talk of transmissions today.