What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Pardon me for saying since this has been a while (I'm trying to catch up- you people type too much. ;P)

I think the best option, and the one I'm going to go with when time comes, is to drill the bolt heads for safety wire, and safety wire them to each other.

Problem solved. Problem staying solved.

 

I would say replace the breather, clean it all up with brake cleaner & see if it still leaks. But if it has been leaking for a while I would replace it. If you have never had bearings changed before, if it were me I'd have both sides & bearings replaced & is what I did earlier this year.

 

One question, do you want to do this all again in a few months? If not replace it all, seal, bearing, o-ring on both sides.

 

Just saw the pics. That's exactly where mine was leaking.

 

You don't have to use AN fittings. JIC work just as well, and in fact are compatible with AN. They just happen to be heavier as they are steel instead of AL. Since this isn't a fighter jet, JIC gets the nod whenever I do hydro work.

 

Yes you can, but shouldn't.

Think about it- how's it going to drain the air in the filter? You'll be aerating your oil bigtime, and likely never get the bubble out of the filter. This means you won't be using the filter completely, also.

 

Simple job.

 

You get that PSU off Amazon? How's it treating you? I have been looking for a new unit for a while now and have had my eye on a similar unit for a few months.

 

Mine is mounted in the engine bay. I don't have a fancy one though, just a PermaCool one.

My truck came with it so I'm spoiled & have no idea what it feels like to change the filter from the stock location.

I didn't like the mount configuration the PO used so I replaced it.




How it used to be

 

eBay, but I'm 100% sure all those units come from the same factory in China. It's nice, it's never dramatically failed on me yet.

 

Sounds like it. Have to order the bushing.

 

Yes, oil pressure, I feel like the idiot for making that comment...

 

The units from Circuit Specialists are pretty good & reputable. You can find cheaper ones though.

I used to have this one:
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/benchtop-power-supply-csi12001x.html

Sold it & now I have this one:
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/bench-power-supply-csi12003x.html

I use it for mainly anodizing titanium though.

 

Received my battery cable but for the life of me, I can't find any place local that can either sell, rent or crimp 2/0 AWG wire. That's the only thing holding me up from getting this finished now.

 

Try a stereo shop (automotive audio).

 

Are those going to work for full stuff? Im looking at the 5.25" and will probably have to run 2" or 3" spacer still.

 

Don't know what leafs you are running, you'd have to cycle your pack & check. I'm running Deaver J59s with the 4.25" bumps which are good for about up to 3" lifts. Compressed height is 3.5".

5.25" are for custom applications & wow you want to run 2-3" spacers as well? How much lift do you have?

I was running superbumps before which were about the same height as the duros uncompressed.

 

Try a propane torch and electrical solder. It will work just fine.
You DO NOT need to crimp these connections.

 

what's the purpose of those rear bum stops? I cant see myself coming down that hard on the rear? I don't do no Pismo beach crazy shit. The front end takes most the abuse.

 

Same purpose as the fronts