What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

How are you gluing these together? Seems like that would be difficult in-situ.

 

If it doesn't, crib it with 4X4 lumber stacked till it does. Just be sure to crib it *properly*. One piece under the jack is fine if you are only going up 4". Any farther, you need to start cribbing in a 2X2 block pattern.

May look redneck as hell, but it also works exceptionally well. There's a reason rescue orgs and shipyards use cribbing.

 

I thought I took a photo of that incident but it sadly appears I didn't. Much regret.

 

I'm using a hot glue gun. It holds it in place just have to be very carful. Ill admit it I've bump it one of the times to hard and bumper fell off and shattered into pieces. After that I was using a lot more glue to hold the pieces in place.

 

Thanks for looking out for me!
@drr

Now I'll have to move them before Death Valley in April...

 

Yeah that was an expensive lesson to learn.

 

have had a couple of those myself last year...on the bright side, what they taught me I will definitely never forget.

Such as, if you accidentally cross thread the axle nut to your CV axle, don't be lazy like I was...fix it or swap the axle for another one at the auto parts store. Otherwise, you might (in this case 'will') end up with a wheel bearing failure ~400 miles later. Lesson learned.

 

Don’t overtighten them either. I had one I had to warranty because the kid who did it used an impact. 315 ft lbs killed the bearing in a few k miles

 

It seems like I hear more horror stories related to using impact wrenches while working on vehicles than good ones lol.

I have an impact driver that I use a lot but it doesn't put out very much torque, it's good for getting things on/off and then finishing them with a torque wrench.

 

Good Day Today, I just checked my lower ball joints, and have zero movement in them. Looked over all my bushings, and they look good also. Only part I found not right, my drivers side outer tie rod boot has small tear in it. So that will be a soon to be completed project. Now for my Dumb Question for the day. Should I change both outer tie rod ends, or change both outer and inner tie rods while I'm in there. Comments are always welcomed.

 

I just use an impact to get things off and then typically use a ratchet to put things on. Don't wanna booger up the threads or over tighten

 

I used Toyota fpig to install my turbo oil pan. The bung leaked and needed to be rewelded so I had to pull the pan back off. That stuff is strong! I don't think bolts are even needed once it's cured. I'd just use the FPIG. The fsm for the 3rz uses it, no gasket.

 

It's the same as when people use Dremel tools to work on firearms.

 

Brilliant!

Another plus of only doing the one side is, you don't have to sweat making both templates even. Make the one side, then have the parts for that side cut twice.. Mirror image, and tack.

I was going to go with cardboard, but I think this might be easier to get it to not flop around. I assume you're using 1/4" luan ply or similar floor underlayment ply, nothing too pricey (using marine birch would just be stupid, unless you have a line on it for free or dirt cheap).

 

That's one of the lessons I have had to relearn recently- and made sure to teach my son. "Impact tight" is by no means tight enough. Just because you stalled out the impact doesn't mean it's done right. Example from this weekend- helped my son install a front receiver on his XJ (a huge PITA, due to DSPO lack of maintenance, and rust.) This involved removing the front bumper and drilling a few holes, then wrestling everything in place and getting all the fasteners reinstalled. He first tried tightening each bolt as he went (nope, and I have taught him about that, but let him figure it out himself this time), then once all 6 bolts were in, we used my 20V cordless impact to hammer them in. Stalled it and then had him get his new torque wrench to finish the job. he needed 110 ft/lb on the front two bolts, and that was just about everything he could get out of his 150 pound frame. The others were easy at 48, but hard to get to. After the first pass, go back around and check everything. That part, he remembered.

It all comes down to, you just have to be smarter than the tool.

 

Personally I would do both. You're going to need an alignment afterwards, owing to manufacturing variances, so you might as well do them all and pay once. By all means measure them carefully and try to duplicate the length CL-to-CL of the TRE stud, but count yourself VERY lucky if you get it DNO by tape measure.

Your tire bill and wallet will thank you. Cry now or cry later.

 

Taught my son to always start the fasteners by hand with a ratchet. Run them with an impact to speed things up, but finish up with a torque wrench. Bearing in mind that it's entirely possible to have something TOO tight with an impact, then "final torque" it with the torque wrench- and if you didn't see the fastener move before reaching final torque, it's too tight.

 

I am a big fan of the elastomer pan gaskets. I used them on my 5.7 motors when I build them. When time comes to do the Taco, I'll see if it's available.

I have always had the multiple-part gaskets for 5.7 and 4.3 leak if you weren't fastidious about them (butter the surface with a smooth thin layer of RTV, install gasket, butter the block side of the gasket again, install and give it 24 hours to cure). The elastomers you just put in place, bolt it up, and you're done.

 

Not being a dick what so ever but just pointing out that there's a multi-quote option that helps clean up the thread. Keeps it looking nice and easy to read

 

Did you just use a sheet metal screw/bolt through the fender in that position? I need to move mine... I'd already avoided the UCA impact zone after your incident, luckily .

Honestly, I'd like to get them slightly forward and down on the front cross member, behind the skid...but that'll have to wait for longer hoses.

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