What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

It's a 35mm on any I've changed. I've used a 36mm socket and it's close enough to work.

 

Aftermarket vs. OEM? I've seen aftermarket change the nut sizes.

 

It's 35mm in my experience, just did it last week. I got a 36mm socket the first time I attempted it and it was too big, wouldn't hardly grab the nut well at all, definitely not well enough to break loose 175 ft/lbs of torque holding it on. Had to run out and buy a 35mm

 

Agreed.

Any company that is having this many failures, in my opinion, should:

1. go back to the design phase,
2. figure out the problem(s),
3. suggest a solution(s) - isolators or redesign of rad,
4. inform current customer base of solution.
5. offer something to current customers with rad that failed, or of current iteration of rad that has the potential to fail.

Granted that Champion is unable to control the use of their rads once it's installed in a vehicle; there is some due diligence on their part.
Customer service/warranty/social media go along way to influence business to change their methods of manufacturing and how to handle failures.

 

Love the steering wheel and love the idea of controlling the window with it.

 

^^^This

35mm is for my Tacoma CV nuts
36mm is for the CV nuts on my wife's Silverado.

 

Absolutely correct!! Modification would eliminate the flexing, leaking issue.
Being opposed to modifications on this forum is silly!!

 

^This.

Due to the numerous failures that I've seen from TW, I 100% would not purchase one. I'd go stock replacement plastic before the Champion.

 

Maybe we should start a thread titled Champion radiator failure thread and list the failures with the lead times for replacements. That should pop up on google.

 

I've never felt that my OEM radiator was lacking in any way, even supercharged/weighed down well over stock weight. I see 188˚ day to day, maybe 190˚ if my AC is on.

Highest I've ever seen it go was 212˚ but that was climbing a 6% grade for 8 miles in 4th gear @ 70mph with a bunch of camping gear, tent, armor, 33s etc.

 

My truck with stock everything (v6 auto) sits at 205 pretty consistently according to the Scangauge. When I replace the fan clutch, I plan to check the thermostat orientation.

 

Thats a good idea plus the new fan clutch might help too if the current one isn't working as well as it should. Couple years ago I was having overheating issues but that was because of the crappy e-fans the previous owner installed. Tossed those and got a new fan clutch put in, only see ~188˚ under normal conditions now

 

Since I bought the truck, it has never made the telltale Toyota ROAR upon startup like EVERY. OTHER. TACOMA/4Runner/Tundra/LC/Lexus I have heard start up, so I'm pretty sure the fan clutch isn't working quite right.

 

Yeah I would have to agree. Once I got the fan clutch put in I now get that semi truck roar going on the first few seconds after start up. Freaked me out the first time because I was so used to how quiet it was with the e-fans.

 

Not sure why everyone is fussing about there coolant temps. Below 200 is pretty normal. I'd imagine if Toyota wanted your engine to run cooler they would have designed it that way. A cooler Tstat just means coolant starts flowing sooner on warmup. If your cooling system can't remove heat fast enough to keep up it going to remain at it's normal operating temperature.

Cooler cylinder walls mean more heat is absorbed into them and losing energy from pushing against the piston.

Just read an article that said wrx with a cooler Tstat lose up to 15hp. Manufacturers generally know what they are doing.

 

My mention of checking the t-stat when I replace the fan clutch is that there is a known orientation for the V6 that some claim that if oriented incorrectly, causes the engine to run hotter. It's just a small hole and doesn't make sense to me why it would affect it so much. I'm not planning on putting in a cooler t-stat right now. Maybe when I get a supercharger.

 

Classic beer pong in the background

 

That's exactly how a fan clutch is suppose to work. It take a minute for the fluid to get to temperature.

 

Same here with my Denso replacement rad. I rarely see anything over 200. Even fully loaded down with gear climbing up the grades to Stanislaus.

 

MAKE SURE THIS PART NUMBER IS FOR YOUR SPECIFIC ENGINE AND YEAR.
'
https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOYOTA-4RU...254324069961?fits=Make:Toyota&epid=2248416772

If this is the part you need, there are a few left in this price range. Mine came in a Toyota labeled bag.