What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

No, alignment is off. But I rotate the tires regularly.

 

Ultra gauge can do trans temp if you have an 01-04. You have to get the MX version and then program it in. I have it on my 02 double cab right now

How to

 

I had the same thing. It was a wheel bearing. Turn to the driver side (somewhat quickly/sharply) and see if it goes away when the load shifts to the side the noise is coming from. This is how I validated it was a wheel bearing. Wheel was still tight with no play and spun normally when jacked up off the ground.

 

Tire noise is pretty uniform across all 4 if they're wearing evenly. Sounds like something else is messed up to me.

 

Yeah, that’s what I thought. I only hear it from the Passenger side. Could be a wheel bearing, I don’t know the mileage of the manual hub knuckles I have are.

Guess that giant snap ring the parts counter guy handed me instead of the CV snap ring was a sign. Was pretty damn funny when he handed me a 6” snap ring instead of a 3/4” one.

 

Being the passenger side rules out the needle bearing on the drivers side of the diff. My dads truck has a hum that goes away in 4wd mainly on the drivers side. Taking a trip to ECGS tomorrow to get their special bushing installed.

 

After I did my tie rods I had an awful whirring/grinding sound coming from my right front wheel, turned out to be the dust shield rubbing against the back of the rotor. I bent it unknowingly while manhandling it out of the way while doing the tie rods. Easy to do and not realize.

That said, I've had a bad wheel bearing too and it's a different kind of grinding noise...not one I'd call a 'whirring' but maybe it's different for everyone. Hard to tell without hearing it, but check those dust shields.

 

I haven’t tested it in 4WD. I wouldn’t hear it if the CV’s aren’t spinning with the hubs in free right?

 

Very well could be the dust shield. I had to warp the hell out of them when I swapped to Tundra brakes.

 

My money is on that then...I had to take the tire off and pry back on the shield against the back of the rotor with a pry bar. Bent it back and the sound was gone.

Don't pry against it so hard you damage the rotor though, doesn't take much to bend the shield back

 

If you want to know if the hub bearing is bad. Take off the wheel. Take off the caliper. And see if there is any lateral movement in your disc. If it has been making the noise for any amount of time, the disc will have movement if your hub bearing is bad.

 

If it ends up being the wheel bearings I’m going to have Tundra brake shields installed instead of the Tacoma ones.

 

I assume brake rotor when you say disk, lateral as in side-to-side?

 

I don't have headers. But just replaced my starter on Friday... Didn't even have to remove the wheel or skid plates. Took about 2 hours.

 

No, I cut plenty. But the dust shield was rubbing badly when I originally did the swap so I had to bent it around the inner rotor surface.

 

Yes... Brake rotor.

>disc< is easier to type than >brake rotor<

 

The dust shields are very easily bent enough they rub on the >brake rotors< especially with Tundra brakes where you have a lot less clearance. I have had them rub after various repairs, several times, and have had to go back and massage them away from the >brake rotors< again.

 

You have to cut a triangle off the top and the bottom to make the calipers fit... and then, yes, you also have to bend them away from the rotor to give clearance.

 

Sorry... Didn't answer the 2nd part of your question. Lateral meaning the disc should not move sideways (towards or away from the spindle) the only movement you should have in the disc is a, relatively, free spin - turning around like as if the wheel was turning.

It should be >relatively< free spin without the wheel on it. If the weight of the wheel is not on the rotor and you are turning the rotor, and your hub is good, the rotor will not move side to side and it will spin maybe a half turn. If your rotor just spins freely without any weight on it, the bearing may not be gone, but it's worn.

The reason I said to take the caliper off is the brake pads will hold the rotor straight when you try and move it side to side. You don't "Have" to take the caliper off... you could also just take the pads out of the rotor and accomplish giving yourself enough room to see if the rotor has play in it.

 

I see, so sideways as in towards the engine and towards the bed. From what I remember testing if the manual hubs worked yesterday, it doesn’t spin freely. It spins a little bit, as if there was resistance, and stops.