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What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by SlimDigg, Feb 7, 2011.

  1. Jan 9, 2020 at 9:32 PM
    SpikerEng

    SpikerEng Well-Known Member

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    If you already have the SG, I'm not sure it makes sense to switch to the UG. But starting with a clean slate, the UG is cheaper, displays a up to twice as many gauges, and (most importantly IMO) can be set up with audible alarms if/when things go wrong (e.g. a burst coolant hose).
     
  2. Jan 9, 2020 at 10:26 PM
    nagorb

    nagorb Should be a dang perma mod

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    I think the big drawback to the scangauge is the customer support. I've heard there is none.

    Edit, I switched them. Scangauge is supposed to have good support, ultagauge is supposed to not have good support.
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2020
  3. Jan 10, 2020 at 4:30 AM
    SwampYota

    SwampYota Strange things are afoot at the Circle K

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  4. Jan 10, 2020 at 4:53 AM
    Blue92

    Blue92 Well-Known Member

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  5. Jan 10, 2020 at 6:15 AM
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    Be careful with some of those diagrams, they are not all the same.

    The green one is mostly correct, but it assumes that you have a relay that does not have an 87a terminal in the middle. Just connect both lights to the 87 terminal.

    The thing to keep in mind with 1st gen tacoma headlights is that they are ground triggered. You always have a 12v+ signal at the headlights, the high beam trigger that people keep referring to actually gets connected to ground through the headlights switch. If you have dual filament (H4) stock headlights and tap into this circuit, you will actually send power through the low beam circuit as well. This is due to the fact that the high beam indicator on the dash works through the low beam filament (confused yet?).

    The best way to trigger aux lights from the stock high beam is to ground trigger your relay for the aux lights. This ground wire from the aux light relay just needs to tap into that high beam wire (which is only connected to ground when the high beam stalk is activated).
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2020
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  6. Jan 10, 2020 at 6:21 AM
    1997tacomav6

    1997tacomav6 V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger,2"pulley,meth, 660k

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    V6 5sp,RegCab,TRD Supercharger, 2" pulley, methanol injected AC TRD supercharger,(MUST DO) TRD supercharger ported, rebuilt 3 times over 500,000 miles, every 125,000- 150,000 needs rebuild Projector headlights HID 5 speed manual Amsoil for all drive train Smaller 2” pulley,(300hp) (MUST DO) 2004 DESNO fuel injectors, zero ping ping, 2004 side door mirrors Dick Cepek Rims, Michelin tires LTX, ( that last 100,000 miles) Now running Dynopro ATM mud and snow tires KN cold air intake Cat back exhaust with ss exhaust tip, Raised exhaust tail pipe to 2" below body line Optima*dry cell battery,red top Alpine sirius radio, 200 watt amp, focal is165 split door pod speakers Focal door speakers Subwoffer behind seat Viper alarm, Electric Locks Dark tinted windows, 4runner bucket seats, Tacoma Rubber floor mats TRD fender extenders, Bilstien shocks chrome push bar, chrome nerf bars, add a leaf for rear springs trailer iv hitch, electric brake control, Drilled slotted brakes, High carbon steel (MUST DO) EBS green stuff 7000 series pads(MUST DO) TRD engine oil cap TRD stick shift, Rear sliding window 2002 4Runner functional hood scoop cut into Tacoma hood, 4Runner dual overhead map light Gentex Auto dim + Compass + Temp, garage,rearview mirror Corbeau bucket seats Snow Methonal kit stage 2 Champion 3 core aluminum radiator Linex bed liner
    Mmm,
    Not true, I called them up and they help me through setting up the fuel trim x codes.
     
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  7. Jan 10, 2020 at 6:26 AM
    se7enine

    se7enine MCMLXXIX

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    I think it's biggest drawback is it's ugly 90's block of plastic look. For the price I'd expect something better looking. I've had pagers that looked more tech.
     
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  8. Jan 10, 2020 at 6:34 AM
    GQ7227

    GQ7227 mw survivor

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    i thought Windows98 was a super cool piece of machinery back then!
    i carried a big hunk of laptop with that OS in my truck for a few years :anonymous:
     
  9. Jan 10, 2020 at 7:40 AM
    m3bassman

    m3bassman Well-Known Member

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    If my memory serves me, and without digging into the diagrams (much appreciated btw) it is the purple one.
    Yeah it's not as clear as I would like hence why I've put it off for years to actually do this. But your explanation helps. I'm using the hella 12v relay, standard pin layout with no 87a terminal.
    15-amp-hella-relay-with-fuse-2-1.gif
    Is it as simple as connecting pin 85 to the hi beam ground?
     
  10. Jan 10, 2020 at 7:58 AM
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    The other confusing thing is type A vs Type B relay. https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html
    [​IMG]

    The thing to remember is that a relay is just an automated switch.

    The pin numbers are the same, but 30 and 86 get their locations swapped. 30 and 87 are always the switch, 85 and 86 are always the coil. When the coil gets energized, the switch closes.
    87a just does the opposite of 87. 87 is NO (Normally Open) and 87a is NC (Normally Closed).


    30 goes to the battery and 87 goes to the aux thing you're turning on. These could also be connected to ground if you had your aux thing supplied with 12v constant from the battery. Just think about it like you are moving the location of this switch to the ground side of the light, as opposed to the positive side. It's still usually better to have the relay on the positive side to limit the length number of constant hot circuits.

    86 and 85 can be interchanged, one gets power the other gets ground. You can then put a switch on either side (power or ground). These are what automate the switch. In this case your switch is the high beam switch ground, so you connect it to the ground side of this relay.

    Make sense?
     
    Last edited: Jan 10, 2020
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  11. Jan 10, 2020 at 8:28 AM
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    I didn't know you had heated seats, I'll be adding heating elements into my RSX seats soon. Still unsure of where I will put the switch, it's coming with a high/low/off switch, and I doubt OTRATTW have switches like that, so I might need to put it in a hidden spot.
     
  12. Jan 10, 2020 at 8:29 AM
    m3bassman

    m3bassman Well-Known Member

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    I think it all makes sense, admittedly circuits weren't my strong point. Did you mean 87 where you typed 85 where I bolded your text?

    I'm reading this as, my 85 is currently grounded to the chassis, but if I tie it into the hi beam ground instead, I will accomplish what I'm looking for:

    Hit hibeams, it'll ground the relay and fire the aux lights.
     
  13. Jan 10, 2020 at 8:33 AM
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    Yes I meant 87, I'll correct my original post.

    If you have 86 hooked to 12v+ then yes, connecting 85 to the high beam wire will trigger the lights.
     
  14. Jan 10, 2020 at 8:48 AM
    m3bassman

    m3bassman Well-Known Member

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    Perfect that makes sense and is not overly complicated by the looks of it. Now, because I'm not with my truck to get wires on it, this may be a trivial question, but you refer to the high beam wire. I only need to tap into one I believe and it would be located at the headlight assembly correct? I'll shave to dig in and figure out which wire it is in the loom.
     
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  15. Jan 10, 2020 at 9:04 AM
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    Easiest spot is at the headlight. You can also find it near the headlight stalk.
    Red-Yellow (R-Y) is the high beam ground
    Red-Green (R-G) is the low beam ground
    Red-Light Blue (R-L) is 12v+

    If you look at the diagram attached you'll see that the high beam indicator is actually on the low beam wire. When the high beams are activated, power travels through the low beam filament and to the dash indicator. It doesn't illuminate when the low beams are on due to resistance. This is also why the high beam indicator doesn't work when you put in LEDs or HIDs, because there is no low beam filament for the power to travel through.
     

    Attached Files:

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  16. Jan 10, 2020 at 9:06 AM
    cruiserguy

    cruiserguy Well-Known Member

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    Dude brutha my homie. You're typing up what should be stickies. This took forever for me to grasp and mostly because I couldn't wrap my mind around only switching on the ground side. Which is most Toyotas, if not all Japanese makes. But your explanations and analogies are great and I'm glad you typed them up so we can have references here. @RysiuM also understands 12VDC circuits and wiring very well. You guys are a great resource. Thanks.
     
  17. Jan 10, 2020 at 9:11 AM
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    It took me a while to understand it all as well. Things like the Type A vs B relays and the fact that the high beam indicator is on the low beam wire just add to the confusion.

    If you think about DC power like water flowing, it makes more sense.
     
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  18. Jan 10, 2020 at 10:17 AM
    m3bassman

    m3bassman Well-Known Member

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    Cool. Thanks for the diagram. I'll dog into it after work.

    Oddly I did not lose my hi beam indicator with LEDs :notsure:
     
  19. Jan 10, 2020 at 10:21 AM
    nzbrock

    nzbrock Well-Known Member

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    Your low beam LEDs must have a resistor added to match the stock low beam resistance. Higher quality ones will sometimes think about things like this haha.
     
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  20. Jan 10, 2020 at 10:28 AM
    m3bassman

    m3bassman Well-Known Member

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    Yeah these ones aren't the most expensive or the cheapest. Sheilded low beans and fanless hear sinks. Really like them.

    I'll report back but I want to thank you for your thorough and clear explanation on this topic. It has been very encouraging and I hope to get this sorted out. :cheers:
     
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