What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

It's much better than a foot peddle, buti would prefer the center console lever. makes it much easier to hold a manual.

 

A Wheeler's AAL (1.5 inch lift) isn't going to make it neccesary to change bumps or brake lines. (you'll want to replace your shocks though if you haven't already done so)

You don't have to pull the whole leaf apart. Just pull the center pin and put the AAL on the bottom and put a new (longer) center pin in.

 

Mine is zip tied so it stops turning on the light.

 

Mine does that from time to time, if I tighten it up it goes away. There's an adjustment nut for the ebrake on the ebrake bracket beside the frame rail on the driver's side (under the cab)

http://www.lieblweb.com/ebrakeadjustment.html

 

https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/d/la-crescenta-2001-lexus-is300-driver/7126812379.html

has anyone replaced seats but kept the same hardware? I like the manual setup. want to buy these but not if i have to hook them up to power

 

good to know. I run OME shocks so I’m good on that. Does the pin come with the AAL?

 

Yes, all the AALs I've ever seen come with the center pins (bolts).

 

good to know I’ve never done it.

I think my tie rods are done for too. Do I gotta go oem with those too? I’m at 210k Right now. Time for some suspension work.

 

https://www.spcalignment.com/index.php?option=com_spc&task=part_description&pid=25022

 

Sucks for hooning though

 

Got the head off the 97 4runner engine. At 252k she’s got some sludge, but internal wise the motor looks really healthy. So passenger side head will be in the parts washer to get as clean as I can get it, then stripped to replace all the valve seals. Camry cams will go in and I’ll set clearance all set. May even put shimless buckets in for less valve train mass

 

Thanks for the lead. Found it. $69? right now that seems a little high for 3 sq ft of sheet metal. But after I stew on it for a month and realize how many projects have cluttered the garage, i will order it. maybe they will sell a little but for behind the winch also? Many thanks.
My buddy has a CNC plasma table.... maybe he needs to cut a grill for me.

 

Things to be aware of:

1. Be conscious of the seat height. Even a little increase between stock and what you are putting in makes a big difference. Most make it too tall. I did BMW's, and now I sort of have to duck my head getting in, and you notice that your upward visibility is lessened. You have to tilt your head to see traffic lights.

2. You must consider access to the area behind the seat, if you aren't a 4 door.

3. Wiring up the power is somewhere between a bitch and virtually impossible. My passenger seat was a piece of cake. Just add some power, and it worked great. BUT, the driver was just the opposite. Because it had a memory function, it would lock up, because (I assume) it couldn't store/retrieve the settings in the central computer. I had to change out the wiring and switch to one from a passenger side to get it to work.

Lastly, just my opinion, but that looks like a lot for those seats, IMO. I picked mine up for $220, and they were pristine. But I'm in a different market area, so......

 

Camry cam?

 

X2?

 

1993 Camry 3vzFe cams. Engine was a higher Erving engine. I’ve confirmed the cams fit fine. Would move the power band up. But to make full useage of the cams you’d need a higher rev limiter closer to 7k. So you’ll also need a Camry crankshaft to handle that kind of rpm (forged, also a direct drop in)

 

What computer are you going to use?

 

So you are putting in a Camry crankshaft that’s forged too?

 

OK thanks for the info. I really don’t want to hassle of having to wire. With an access cab having a rail that slides back is super convenient. Maybe I should just pay a little bit more and get some racing with a custom bracket?

suggestions appreciated!

 

Plug and play, 30 minutes install time,