What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I recall you mentioning your experience when we were all gathered trying to figure out what had just happened to mine.

I drained my t-case today. No mud in mine.





This oil has about 20K on it. I would normally not change it for at least double that. But I wanted to confirm its condition based on what your experience was. As you can see, it is still in pretty good shape.

 

What did you have to do to fix it?

 

Replaced it with a junkyard case.

 

I got pissed, and replaced with this one.

Auto Dynasty 50"es x 38"es Aluminum Roof Rack Top Cargo Carrier Basket+Cross Bar (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GEWA5MU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I did get stainless bolts, nuts, and washers, and it is doing great. Plastic faded a bit, but some bedliner, and that was better than new.

 

Cleaned up my gas tank skid, brainstorming ideas for reinforcing it.

 

Thanks! I was worried about the full pack overextending my shock, I screwed up and got 5100s that probably aren't long enough... I plan on putting the leaf back in when I get my ubolt flip kit in and get the shock deal figured out. Thinking about relocating the lower mounts. Thanks for the advice

 

I’m running Bilstein 5125s and custom Alcan leafs(about 3-1/2” lift) and they fit pretty damn good. I believe they are a 9” shock. Stock is 8” and often relocations are 10” shocks.
https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...-3-5-lift-shocks-for-1995-2004-toyota-tacoma/

 

Anyone have a cold air intake they’re selling or want to trade for a stock one? Stock box will be to big once I start adding tubes.

 

Yes

PM’d

 

Yeah mine popped out of gear once as well, freaked me out. Just was driving along and all of a sudden rpms skyrocket and I’m not moving. Realize it’s not in 4lo then continued on

 

You can get a stiffer shift spring for the stock case to help remedy popping out of gear between hi and lo range. Should be the same on the push button t-case
as the J-shift. You just don't have a shift spring for the front drive fork shaft since there's an actuator to engage it instead.
https://www.marlincrawler.com/transfer-case/parts-upgrade/shifter-parts/tacoma-shift-spring

 

20014 RAV4 Map lights and Microphone, Gentex 453 Auto Dimming Mirror with compass and temperature display.

 

I'd be 100% in on side reinforcements. Was already going to hit you up for the top plates. Running through making a list of winter projects right now.

I'll also be looking at doing the rear bar relocation bracket on my son's T4R.

 

15hr drive each way, several hours more of driving+wheeling, all over the weekend, and fortunately the only thing that went bad was an engine temperature sensor.







Looks like the one I had was an original. Not bad for 264k miles.

When you do this, don't forget the two washers at the bolt on the fuel rail, not to mention the washer on the temp sensor.

 

How did you mount the mirror?

 

its a lot more complicated than that.

None of it is at 90º angles for starters. The top plate is more like a trapizoid too. So you have a lot of odd angles to deal with

I think it you did it right though with a cut that goes a long the top edge you could make it so it's a stiched cut to allow people to bend it themselves as they need then just weld it up. Provides another contact point to weld as well for a big piece of steel.

 

right but i found on mine at least that no side was the same either. So you have to make a driver side and passenger one. Plus then im sure you'd have to give a magin for error on peoples shit being tweaked a bit from old age/abuse plus the machine welds being different slightly possibly and hell for all we know the coil bucket design changed a tad year to year. Wouldn't be that surprising given all the other shit they changed constantly.

To me if you shipped it flat you'd save a lot of cost and peopl could fit it beter to their own truck.


I highly doubt no matter what though something will be able to be made that won't need a small adjustment with grinders on the end user's side.

 

impressive...but also WAY far off from reality haha but keep at it!

 

Hows my 5 min drawing compare? Hahaha



Sort of shows how I'd do it.

Add on a rear side too and make the holes go 100% around the uca bolt to a fully enclosed option. Only way to weld that up though is pulling the engine.

 

nah I think doing the UCA bolt holes as partial holes is fine or half moons even. Simplier to weld up that way. The ones I made I don't think needed it and one wasn't actually fully enclosed anyways.




Certainly though not the funnest thing to weld. I ended up removing the body bushings and jacking up the body high as I could per side. Helped a lot.