What is this part called?

bought this part way over priced, but waiten to get it, reverse engineer it and waterjet n press break some if anyones interested in one in stainless or aluminuim

 

A metal piece would probably be a nice option considering how many cracked ones I've noticed.

 

I spent 60 bucks on the replacement, sti) havent gotten it yet either

 

If you get it and make a couple I'd be interested if it'll work with my ARE. I can't imagine it's be that hard to do with CAD (cardboard aided design) and access to a large enough brake (something I definitely don't have). I'd think aluminum would be preferable to keep the weight down, maybe spray it with some bedliner?

 

i got a whole fab shop at my disposal, waterjet, machine shop and press brake, i jus want to get a fresh part to reverse engineer from

 

has anyone manufactured or fabricated anything up yet? pictures?

mine finally broke off on the highway, now my box is constantly full of dust

 

Also interested. Any update machineman89? Make some dealz!

 

Bump, anyone make anything?

 

@jaydon.mccarthy @Ebymon @slcsez2000 I proto'd a replacement part using some 3" neoprene and pop-rivets. It works very well and I will be making a cleaner-looking replacement this spring.

Details and photos here.

 

$60 is just ridiculous. I now have three cracks starting from the rivets. I drilled a small hole at the end of each crack to stop it from getting worse (since the piece hadn't actually broken all the way through yet), ran a thin router bit along both sides of the cracks to open it a little and dabbed on black ABS glue. It's been on there since probably April and seems to be holding. I still think a coated aluminum piece (and some actual quality rubber) would be the way to go.

 

Nice!

I’ll need to figure out something soon. Just got my first cap.

logged on Craiglist Christmas night and saw one same color for $200
I almost fainted and just knew it was already gone.
It wasn’t and that piece is the only thing wrong with it.

where did you get the neoprene part?

 

That's a great score!

The cheapest source due to the small quantities needed was Amazon. I believe there is a link to the roll of material in the linked post, listed as "Flap".

 

gotcha!
Thanks!

 

Just spent the last couple hours trying to figure out what this piece is…. I am going to try BahaTacoma’s suggestion of the black ABS glue. I was actually thinking about using some black jb weld and smoothing it out. I just replaced the gas shocks and now I’m worried that plastic piece is gonna break off. I’m tired of babying it.

 

I am an ARE dealer, this is indeed called a Contour Strip. I replace a lot of these since they like to crack at the rivets.

ARE part numbers:


PA-15856 05 Tacoma Contour Strip w/rivets (for CX/MX Series)
PA-15223 05 Tacoma Contour Strip w/rivets (for V/TW Series)

PA-19105 05 Tacoma Contour Strip w/rivets (for CX/MX Series - Used after 5/1/2010)
PA-19104 05 Tacoma Contour Strip w/rivets (for V/TW Series - Used after 5/1/2010)

PA-22717 2016 Tacoma Contour Strip w/rivets (for CX/MX Series)
PA-22715-001 2016 Tacoma Contour Strip w/rivets (for V Series)
PA-22715-002 2016 Tacoma Contour Strip w/rivets (for TW Series)

 

The problem is the contour strip expands and contracts like crazy with temperature, then cracks at the rivets. I haven't tried it yet, but I plan to oval all the holes in the strip for the rivets except for the one at the center. This will allow the part to expand some and not bind on the rivets.

 

I've ordered the part and removed the broken contour strip. Any hints or suggestions for removing the old rivets. If I snip them off they seem to remain in the existing holes and are really hard to remove. The new rivets look like they pound or press in the old cleaned out holes. I'm not really sure how to attach the new piece. Please help.

 

I just drill them out with a 3/16 drill bit. Or just drill of the head and use a punch and hammer to push the rest of the rivet into the door frame. There is really no way to get them out so they kinda rattle around in there when you open and close the door it but no one has ever complained about it. Then just use new rivets to attach it.

Sometimes you need to ream out the holes with a 3/16 bit of they don’t line up exactly.

 

Thanks! That worked like a charm. Just had to get a pop rivet gun and I'm back in business.

 

Late to party on an old thread but I will add incase someone comes across this.

Aluminum Angle Stock was my solution. Bought some angle that was exact same in drop, ripped down the other side that is riveted in the window trim, rounded the corners, and flat spray paint. It has lasted about 8 years so far. Paint is chipped but otherwise still good.