What kind of camper do you have?

No mods to the hitch - just a common 2" coupler welded onto the frame.




I did add the framework to mount two six volt golf cart batteries wired in series and the storage cabinet to the left of them. The female pipe elbow is for my flagpole.

Hooking up is actually a little easy for me than a standard bumper pull (Unless my wife tries to help). Just center the hitch arm in the sliding rear window and back until the lowered tailgate nudges the camper. I bought a second hand crank used to raise/lower the front legs and cut it down to fit my cordless drill so not much effort is involved in getting the camper up or down. If I don't take the genset (or leave the fuel can so I can turn the generator sideways), there are no clearance problems when turning as sharp as necessary. With the genny, fuel can and cooler, the nose of the trailer will make contact at around 75*s on a left turn. Not a problem, you just have to be aware of it.

Shown below is the hitch setup that Scamp now sells for all trucks. I'm not sure how they recommend attaching it to the vehicle but the flat stock and OEM bed bolts system I used should certainly work for it as well. Scamp also offers a 3" block lift for the camper axle which will probably be required for any of the newer trucks full or mid-sized. I'll probably add that over the winter as mine sits a little nose high with the Firestone bags bringing the rear end up to spec.



There's a Canadian company, Escape Trailers, that makes a molded fiberglass true fifth wheel trailer. With the current exchange rate, these are a pretty good deal for anyone looking to buy new https://escapetrailer.com/trailers/the-5-0-escape/

 

I like the tandem axle on the Escape! I wish they made a bunkhouse version though of either. Seems like both the Scamps and Escapes are designed more as a couple's camper.

 

Some more great info. Honestly, I never looked at a Scamp before. I appreciate all of your feedback. I definitely need to look into these. Have fun with that nice little package. Thanks again.

 

I notice you are not using any extended tow mirrors. Did that cause any concerns?

 

Craig - Thanks and just let me know if you have questions I might be able to help with.

Melikemybeer - Scamps are 6'8" wide and most owners are fine with the stock mirrors. I've not had any problems with those on the Tacoma.

 

I have towing mirrors. I find them invaluable when towing. Kinda a pain when not towing.

 

My family has this trailer down on the eastern shore of Virginia.

41' park model with 2 real bedrooms and house appliances. As a family we have been going down to the shore there for about 30 yrs, and bought this place approaching 20 yrs ago.
Thankfully it is prominently there, as the Tacoma does not move it very well.

And white trailer park would be complete Kama without some grade a trailer trash? This guy who lucky for us is right across the road from us loads to walk around searching for other people's trash or going through the dumpster. He then leaves all the ships sitting in his sight. Neither of those 2 golf carts have operated in the past 5 years.

 

I don't tow a Scamp but a T@B. I use just the original truck mirrors and no rear cameras. I'm towed "things" for 40 years, both commercially and personally so I'm comfortable this way. I've found helpful assistance when towing comes from a rear view camera. Not a backup, but one on the rear of the trailer so you can monitor what is behind you. This seems to really help people the most, especially beginners.

 

Keystone Hideout 19FLB; Sticker weight; 4080lbs, Hitch; 405lbs, GVWR 6800lbs, Dry 4172lbs.

 

We had our first "real" trip with the new camper (previous was just a test run to a place 10 minutes from home). This time we went about 2 hours away. I tried filling up on 91 octane on a near empty tank before heading out and got around 10.9 MPG. We did some running around and, by the time we were close to leaving, the truck was already under 1/4 tank, so I filled with standard 87 octane on the way home. Gas mileage was a little worse at 10.5 MPG, but I don't think it makes up for the cost difference which is 40-50c per gallon. I maybe noticed a small difference in power, but maybe it was just placebo because it was negligible if anything.

Coachman Apex Nano 208BHS, 4000lbs dry, E2 WDH, Tekonsha P3 controller.



Question on the Tekonsha P3 - I was told to calibrate it you should get up to ~20 MPH and then just hit the manual brakes on the trailer alone, keep increasing the value on the Tekonsha until they lock up, and then back down a bit from there. I tried to do that but I went all the way up to the max setting and still didn't think the trailer brakes ever "locked up". I ended up leaving it around the middle at 7.0 for the time being. Anyone run into something similar? What do you use for your setting on a similarly sized trailer at around 4k lbs dry?

 

On a new trailer it may be the trailer brakes not the P3. I had a similar situation with my electric trailer brakes on a new 3200# Rpod 179. My brake controller is a Tekonsha Prodigy RF controller set up high (10) but the principle is the same. The brakes would not lock up so I had a mechanic check it out. He advised me that he found no problem but that the brakes take a bit of use before they will come on hard. After a few trips this summer I had to back the setting off (6.5) because the brakes did start locking up on the higher setting.

Perhaps your trailer is similar and your brakes will begin working normally after a few trips.

 

We went over Teton Pass last summer coming back from a Yellowstone/Southern Wyoming Mtb trip. No trailer towing, but that is one of the steepest paved roads around. Anyone towing - even full size trucks - were lugging their way up that road. I am still in awe at the grade!

 

If you want to run 91 octane you have to give the computer time to adjust to the higher octane to get the full benefit (a few tanks).
For the brakes, you have to warm up the brakes on the camper before calibrating. I drive a few miles in town then pick a nice quiet residential street and run through the calibration. Yes I do this everytime, being able to stop is GOOD! Might want to check brake temp at your first stop just to be sure your not dragging a little.

 

Thanks for the info on the Tekonsha and brakes guys. I'll have to fiddle with it some more and try to get it working better.

 

Here’s ours, don’t think the Tacoma wants to try it. 36’ long bumper to tongue. Weighs almost 10k.

 

Little late response, but the trip was great the family especially the wife is happier camping when she can sleep in AC. It pulls great I am glad I went with a WDH and sway bar just for comfort. Any mods you done to the trailer yet?

 

I went with a WDH set up as well — for the peace of mind. Basic quality of life mods so far: built a ladder for the bunks, battery kill switch, propane gauge, and vent cover on the roof. Considering propane cover and electric tongue jack.

 

The battery kill switch and propane gauge will be a good idea before my next trip out. I was going to build a ladder but my son said he doesn’t want one. If you have a pic of how you did your ladder that would be awesome. I looked at adding the electric tongue but for now I am just going to crank it.

 

What propane gauge are you guys using? Been thinking it would be nice to tell how much is in there and not just go until it runs out, when of course I would probably really need it and be no where near where I can get it filled. First time I've had one (first RV and always used charcoal for grills), so still trying to figure it out.

 

I do not have one yet, but that is a good question.