What kind of camper do you have?

I've also heard that adding water and a bag or two of ice and driving around can help clean off the sensors.

 

My GD 22RBE has tongue weight dry of 515 but loaded with propane, battery, and other stuff it's 650-700 lbs.

 

Give this guy a read. It worked for me. Use borax with each empty and Dawn every 2nd or 3rd time.

https://www.trbowlin.com/2021/01/28/are-your-rvs-holding-tank-level-sensors-not-working/

 

Have you considered a Lift Kit like this one for your trailer?

 

That might be an option also . Right now I just noticed how low my black and grey tank drain is to the pavement . Making me nervous. My previous Jayco was not like this .
I purchased this used from Camping World and I’m now wondering why it was traded in so quickly it’s a 2020

 

My method did not work Everytime I drain the black tank the water is clean. You would think if there is crap on the walls some of it would change the water color . Hot water and every thing .

 

Did you fill the tank completely? If nothing else, change the sensors. Chances are it's the top one that's fouled, but hell it's only 30 bucks for a set of 4.

 

Four Wheel Camper If Needed But I prefer this with a 15 minuter pack and go.

 

Tank hold 36 gallons . I used a 5 gallon pail,about 7 -8 trips with pail almost full . . Water was so close I could see it right there below the flush valve . Took it for 2 rides today one with about 15 gallons of water and dishwasher soap another almost completely full . Hot water both times . Water crystal clear every time I drained it .

 

I had a Jayco several years ago that we wanted to take back country. So I flipped the axles under (had leafs) and fitted a larger wheel / tire combo to get it up a bit. That helped some - but still had to have a skid bar added to protect the drain piping.

 

I feel like mine is really low, so I went out and measured. I wouldn't want it much lower, especially with how far back it is mounted.

 

Those metal straps that hold it up, look pretty crappy and not factory. Is it supposed to be mounted some other way and higher up?

 

I have no idea but I’m going to add more strapping . I’m getting some other answers and pictures from a RV forum and they all look pretty low . It’s amazing what a travel trailer cost and how shitty they are made .SMH

 

Exhaust hangers work good to replace the strapping that manufacturers use.

 

Par for the course. I had to completely rewire mine, along with replace and reinforce certain odds and ends. And forget about the dealer helping you out with that shit, unless you want it to sit in the shop for the next 6 months. RV ownership is a crash course in DIY repairs.

Unless you own an airstream or other completely overbuilt unit that's 10 times the cost of a comparable Jayco or FR, of course.

 

My Rpod 178 has the factory 3” lift. Makes all the difference in the world.

 

I think that once you've had a TT you become a better TT shopper. And know a few more owner mods......

One of my welders showed me a neat trick for the scissor stabilizers. He welds a 2" square tube extension across the top of the jacks and a 2" box hitch on the frame. That lets them be pulled and rotated 90 deg for towing. He also put a lug nut size hex on the screw.

 

That's a really cool idea.

I use the camco 3/4" socket and my impact driver to deploy my stabilizers.

I always kinda wondered if the bigger trailers get the shakes from people walking around. My little camper drove me nuts with how bad it wobbled.

A set of lock-arms made it solid as a brick foundation. But unfortunately that would make a quick disconnect a bit of a challenge.

 

What camper is that?
Looks nice and high off the ground.

 

Looking at a Micro Minnie 1700BH. Has the cold weather/4 season package.