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What kind of coolant should i use??

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by WARGASM723, Aug 18, 2010.

  1. Aug 18, 2010 at 6:06 PM
    #1
    WARGASM723

    WARGASM723 [OP] Member

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    Hello, I need a Engine coolant flush done and The dealer told me to use only "the Factory Coolant". It costs about $28 dollars and change for one Gallon!!!!!! Anybody know where else i can buy the same kind of coolant for less?? I know that my coolant on my 2005 Toyota Tacoma Pre runner (2wd) is pink and is called "Toyota Super Long Life Coolant".
    Thanks!!:)
     
  2. Aug 18, 2010 at 6:08 PM
    #2
    08pretaco

    08pretaco Almost there

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    for a often as you change it, not very, just pay the 28 and use theirs!
     
  3. Aug 18, 2010 at 6:11 PM
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    tacomakid96

    tacomakid96 Can you skin Grizz, pilgram?

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    I use Prestone
     
  4. Aug 18, 2010 at 6:16 PM
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    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    I just put some of that GM red stuff they sell at autozone in there. But I totally flushed it...
     
  5. Aug 18, 2010 at 6:21 PM
    #5
    larryde09

    larryde09 Well-Known Member

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    I just used prestone...but it is no longer "long life" and should be changed every 30k miles. However, I would still recommend changing a "long life" coolant at 30k miles anyway.
     
  6. Aug 18, 2010 at 7:04 PM
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    WARGASM723

    WARGASM723 [OP] Member

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    K...got it. Second thing....anybody know a previous post or link on how to change the coolant on this Forum??? (cause im new)
    Thanks again
     
  7. Aug 18, 2010 at 7:10 PM
    #7
    ktmrider

    ktmrider Senior Member

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    I use the toyota long life red in the supercharger and intercooler (red), and I use prestone snot green in the radiator so if I ever have a leak I can easily tell where the leak is coming from.
     
  8. Aug 18, 2010 at 10:58 PM
    #8
    Hans Moleman

    Hans Moleman Well-Known Member

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  9. Aug 19, 2010 at 4:05 AM
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    larryde09

    larryde09 Well-Known Member

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    I'm pretty sure I've seen previous posts...try the search function. Also, the Haynes manual shows how to do it.

    If you change your coolant every 30k, you really don't need the additives and stuff. Also, a "full" flush isn't entirely necessary...this means removing the drains plugs in the block, running water through the entire system, removing and/or replacing thermostat, etc.

    I keep up w/ my maintenance, so here's an abbreviated version of the steps I take, but if it has been awhile, you might want to consider a full flush doing some of the items I mentioned above.

    Basic steps:

    1. Make sure the engine is cool
    2. Open radiator cap
    3. Open radiator drain plug and let coolant drain
    4. close drain plug
    5. Fill radiator with water
    6. Run engine until dash indicator says the system's warm (I keep the radiator cap open so that it doesn't repressurize the system and makes it warm faster)
    7. Cool engine
    8. Drain water from radiator
    9. Fill radiator with 50/50 water/coolant mix
    10. Close cap, run engine, check levels
    11. Keep checking the level for the next couple days of driving

    Make sure you do you homework before getting starting. And dispose of your coolant properly....Good luck!
     
  10. Aug 19, 2010 at 7:20 AM
    #10
    tiger955

    tiger955 Well-Known Member

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    As a professional mechanic for many years I have checked most types of coolant for ph level as part of doing services. I have found the GM Dexcool (pink) has a very high acid level. I strongly believe that is why I change so many leaking, eroded GM intake and head gaskets at work. I wouldn't use that stuff in anything.
    There are several types of Pink coolant out there these days and they don't mix. Dexcool doesn't mix with anything else, both asian and europeans have pink coolant, I don't think they are compatable either, not sure.
    I like the new "global" coolant that mixes with anything, you can get Prestone at Walmat for about 10 bucks a gallon. It is more economical to buy the straight stuff and mix it 50/50 with water than to buy the premixed.
     
  11. Aug 19, 2010 at 7:59 AM
    #11
    Steve_P

    Steve_P Well-Known Member

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    some constructive criticism on this method: If you do as you've outlined you will have a block full of mostly water after step 8 and then you add 50/50 to the rad in step 9 so you will be well below a 50/50 mix overall when done which may lead to troubles. And you're not flushing out all the old mix, as you've said, just part of it by only draining the rad.

    I usually do similar to the above but I generally leave the rad petcock open w engine running and keep adding water to the rad for a while as it is running/draining (removing all the old mix). Once I have all water in the system, I shut off the engine, let the rad drain, close everything up and put straight coolant in the rad in step 9. This really isn't "right" as it doesn't guarantee a 50/50 mix but I've never had a problem. And of course you should get a coolant hydrometer and verify where you're at after some run time and everything is mixed up.

    The right way is drain the rad and block and add all fresh 50/50.
     
  12. Aug 19, 2010 at 8:17 AM
    #12
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    If you are changing coolant types safest thing to do is to ensure that you flush all the old coolant out first via; draining block and rad; "professional" flush; flush kit and a garden hose. Less chance of any inter-species coolant reactions... Then re-drain and add the new coolant. If I've flushed it I usually add straight coolant up to the mix level, then finish up with water, since there will be left over water in the system.

    I have always used the Prestone "universal" coolant when doing this. Once the old is out, you're not at the dealers pricing mercy any longer.
     
  13. Aug 19, 2010 at 11:15 AM
    #13
    WARGASM723

    WARGASM723 [OP] Member

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    Nice!!! Thanks guys for the info!!!!
     
  14. Aug 19, 2010 at 2:26 PM
    #14
    larryde09

    larryde09 Well-Known Member

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    Agree 100%...I just accepted the risk by ensuring I flush it at regular intervals.


    This is a good point...ensuring "incompatible" coolant is fully flushed before you start with another type. I have read though that you can mix long life and "non-long life" coolant, just remember that you don't have the "long life" benefit anymore. I largely chose not to do the garden hose method because I didn't have enough containers to catch all that coolant/water/rust to dispose of.
     
  15. Aug 20, 2010 at 5:47 AM
    #15
    Lurkin

    Lurkin Well-Known Member

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    Understandable point. Depends on where you're at, and what environmental concerns you have, or are enforced.

    I see what I didn't mention though was that I will drain the rad and block before hosing it.
     
  16. Aug 20, 2010 at 6:04 AM
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    Trap

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    Before you find out the engine coolant will not drain from the engine on the V6, there is two valves on the drivers side of the engine that need to be opened. It's a real process to change the coolant on the V6. I'd suggest you search and find the thread before you start. What ever was posted up above is not going to work on the v6.

    This thread here says there is only one drain plug on the block on the passenger side. The book says there is two on the drivers side. I've never done it yet so I don't know what is correct.
    http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2nd-gen-tacomas/88414-correct-way-drain-fill-4-0-antifreeze.html
     
  17. Aug 20, 2010 at 6:24 AM
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    Mush Mouse

    Mush Mouse Club Soda Not Seals

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  18. Aug 20, 2010 at 6:38 AM
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    Trap

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  19. Aug 20, 2010 at 7:14 AM
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    larryde09

    larryde09 Well-Known Member

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  20. Aug 20, 2010 at 8:12 AM
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    T0LLPHR33

    T0LLPHR33 Well-Known Member

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    i just use the toyota long life pre-mix...when there's a link it will leave a pink residue which helps you determine where the leak is coming from...i get it for $15 cause I know the parts guy and he always hooks me up with his employee discount...:D
     
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