What oil and octane do YOU run in your Gen III Taco?

Just curious....why 91 with the OV tune? The tune can't change the engine's compression. Does it somehow keep the timing in a more advanced state? Does it interact with the knock sensors to keep things safe?

Genuinely curious. I know nothing about the OVT.

 

You're doing no harm. In fact, if you look at the manual it says, "87 is the minimum octane rating" to be used. If using an octane higher than 87, the knock sensors will tell the ECM that it's ok to advance the timing a bit to compensate for the higher octanes tendency to ignite later in the combustion stroke.

But, if you're in a high elevation part of Colorado....then you're truly wasting money...even more so than sea level people. Some high elevation people get away with 86 or even 85 octane because the engine's compression is lower at elevation...requiring even less octane to operate. Of course, the net effect of that is reduced power. But you can't change air density without some sort of forced induction. Or come back down to sea level.

Stick with a Top Tier 87 fuel and put a little change in your pocket

 

I run whatever the minimum available octane is. That's 85 in Colorado and the surrounding mountain states. 87 everywhere else.

$52 0W-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0W-20 oil, Mobile 1, Valvoline, Castrol, whatever.

 

Think of all the aggravation you've saved yourself by simply following the recommendations and NOT overthinking things.

 

87 gives noticeable power reduction compared to the 91 tune. Comparing the two 91 is the much better tune. This is 1.04 tune though.

 

Yeah....I know nothing about it. It has to be a timing thing. Or maybe a more aggressive throttle tip-in

 

Thanks i use shell and will go for 87 on my next fill up .

 

I use the owners manual as a guide. 87 OCT, 0W/20, full synthetic. I know its a waste but change the oil and filter every 5000.MI. I sleep better.

 

I wonder why Toyota recommends 5k OCIs for severe service...that's literally the only thing causing me to "hedge" with EP for a 10k interval.

While I don't beat on my truck, its almost exclusively used for short trips in a range of temperatures and occasionally tows a small camper.

 

For the severe duty use....they’re just playing it safe.

 

Then we would argue which color looks best on Lada Niva, comrade : black, or off-white?

 

Fuel loading of the oil is the main issue with heavy loads (more likely to have more direct injection use and more fuel make its way into crankcase)and idling. The only way to fix fuel dilution is to dump it out. Another issue with direct injection is that it produces a soot that is smaller than a simple uoa can detect. This soot is however abrasive.
My thought, I will change at 5k intervals until a lot of these10k interval fks’s reach 100k without needing a timing chain stretch fixed to see if toyota materials can beat the DI timing chain longevity odds.

See the below reference articles and threads

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0301679X15000432

https://www.infineuminsight.com/articles/passenger-cars/timing-chain-wear/

https://www.lubrizoladditives360.com/ilsac-add-timing-chain-wear-test-gf-6/

http://www.import-car.com/timing-chain-wear/

https://www.northamericanmotoring.c...13563-direct-injection-and-chain-stretch.html

This is a quote from the above link.

Direct Injection & Chain Stretch


For those that do not wish to read the entire study I'll give you the cliff notes version before posting the link below. Some of this may seem counter intuitive to all the hype from the auto industry about direct injection. Just keep in mind that with traditional port injection the injectors can be open for

1. Direct Injection results in a less homogeneous gas-phase mixing resulting in incomplete burning and clumping of particulates. In fact gasoline direct injection engines produce more soot than diesel engines equipped with a particulate filter.

2. These soot particles invariably build up in the engine oil and increase the rate of wear. In point of fact chain "stretch" is considerably accelerated by elongation caused by wear of the chain pins and bushings.

I think we can infer some solutions to help us happily motor on much longer.

1. Change your oil more frequently. Yes, synthetic motor oil will in fact retain it's viscosity and lubrication properties much longer than conventional motor oil. But no matter how good the oil is it's not able to do it's job very well with a handful of sand thrown into it. As soot accumulates in the oil it will increase the rate of wear on the timing chain, main bearings, etc...

2. Consider increasing your oil viscosity. Oil film thickness correlates to viscosity when measured in a kinematic or high shear rate viscometer. A thicker oil film will do a better job of preventing larger particles from abrading surfaces. Manufacturer's are constantly pursuing increased gas mileage and efficiency and many have lowered their recommend oil viscosity to further that goal.

3. There's been some question as to if or why cryogenic treatment of the timing chain by some of our vendors (Detroit Tuned) results in less chain stretch. The short answer is that cyro treatment increases hardness and abrasion resistance. The conversion of austenite to martensite results in an increase of about 2 on the Rockwell hardness scale and the precipitation of Eta-carbides helps close the grain structure of the surface of the metal. Both combined will result in a longer lasting chain.

Here's the full article for those interested.
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science...01679X15000432

Food for thought

 

0/20 93

 

Castrol EDGE Professional
LL IV FE 0W20.
15-20k mile OCI.

Costco 91 octane.

83,000 miles on odometer.

 

Check the official thread. I just know that the 91 tune out does the 87 tune as far as power goes, and that is not a seat of the pants thing.

 

10k oci dealer, 92 octane. Almost 30k miles original air filter lol

 

Royal Purple 0W20 for my first 2 oil changes. Probably switch to Mobil 1 (just because it's available at Costco) moving forward.
92oct

 

Toyota 0W-20/ 93 OCT

 

Redline 0w-20
87 octane from 711 or ARCO.

 

I was running 87 in mine, then last tank I decided to try 89. Mileage instantly shot up from 19 hwy to 22, and it seemed to run a lot better. Less stuttering and soft misfiring. It had never, ever shown 22 on the meter before. Of course, this is right before I traded it off on a new 4runner. :O It was a very noticeable difference, not placebo. (I'm the biggest skeptic ever) Maybe the 87 I had been using was really crappy? I wish I had tried it earlier, but oh well.