What Oil Filter Do You Use?

I don't know, I would assume WIX.

One of my fellow employees went on a tour and he said WIX made a lot of stuff for other people... it would roll off the line and they would just slap different labels on them

 

OEM Toyota filters are the best...

 

You would be correct.

A few manufacturers make most filters.
Bosch purchased Purolator but retained the name... Bosch filters used to be Champion, they are now Purolator.
15 years ago, the "retail" Toyota filters were apparently identical to Purolator, but the factory-installed filter was different.
AC Delco? They are Champion Labs (not the spark plug people), and they are identical to Supertech and STP.
Fram makes filters for MicroGuard (that's what the Chevy dealer put on my '08 before I took delivery), Pennzoil, and others.

 

Alright so I know a lot of people doesn't like the fram oil filters. I recently found this http://fram.com/products/oil_filters/fram_ultra_oil_filter?select_region=1. It's called the ultra filter. It's supposed to be redesigned to replace the cardboard and other cheap components. Plus it has a 99% dirt trapping efficiency. Do ya'll think these are any better than the old ones?

 

Given that Fram now owns Champion Labs, that is probably their version of the Mobil-1/K&N/TRD filter.

Likely a decent filter... but is it really worth $8/$10/$12/$16 when the OEM filter is $4?
I quit using Mobil-1 filters when they jacked their prices up to the $12-$14 range and moved to Purolator or Bosch. Now using Toyota on the Tacoma, but I still have a few Purolators to burn through on the wife's Rav4.
But she's already got a case of Toyota filters for when the Purolators are gone.

 

Yeah you're right about the price. I'm just glad Fram stepped it up a notch after years and years of complaints.

 

They won't get rid of the cheap stuff.
I suspect that they bought Champion to get the Ecore technology... even cheaper than Fram, using a plastic "cage" core support instead of a steel tube, but it gets away from the "cardboard" stygma and replaces it with a fiber sheet of some kind.

The Champion Ecore (Supertech, STP, Delco, Champ) really is no better than Fram from a construction viewpoint... the effectiveness of the drainback and bypass seals remains to be verified. There were some reports early on from some Chevy 5.7 owners that the core had collapsed and the outlet plugged... but there were so few reports that I'm not sure I believe them. I file them under "cautiously pessimistic"

 

I use a K&N filter. The welded nut on the end of it is very helpful when trying to take the filter off.
Removing the filter from a 2.7 is a bitch. I can get an extension up there and access the nut and use it to spin the filter off.

 

Stock, denso stamped, authentic toyota filters for me.

 

Yea, the 2.7 is a pain with a skid plate. I only hand tighten my filters, so that usually makes it easier to remove, but I think last time I spun it a little to hard, and it's going to be a pain to remove. Thinking of cutting a hole big enough to slid a filter and a hand up through in the skid.

If you have a dealership near by, the toyota filters are the best bet. Can also order them online. That's what I did on my F150. Used nothing but motorcraft oil and filters. 150k not a single engine problem. The heater core did crap out on me though due to negligence with coolant change/flush. That was a $100 and 12+ hours of cussing lesson.

 

Pay attention to how good the check valve is. When you first start the truck in the morning, notice how long it takes for the oil pressure light to go out. If the check valve in the filter is good (like the OEM filters), then the oil pressure light will go out almost instantly when the motor fires. When I have tried other brands in the past, the oil pressure light will often stay on for a full second or two after it fires, indicating that the check valve in the filter isn't good and is allowing oil to drain back out of the oil system into the oil pan, leaving your motor with no oil pressure for the first second or two of a cold start up. The OEM filters are the best I have found so far.

 

I am currently using the Purolator Pureone, it was a special with Valvoline at Advance Auto. I think its the best they make, only thing I don't like is it has a little overspray of the textured surface on the inside of the lip.

Can't beat getting a 5.1 quart jug of oil for $22, and a $12 oil filter for one more dollar.

I had to remind the idiot behind the counter what his special was though, and then he brought me the cheap filter when I told him about the special. So I sent him back to get the right one, he doesn't deserve his job.

 

Usually what ever is part of package at the store. I've ran frams on every vehicle no issues ever. so for me its a

 

Removing (and replacing) the skid is not hard, plus doing this allows you to inspect the entire underside of the engine for other issues, which is always a good idea on older vehicles. The first time I did it on this truck, I swore a lot. But the trick is to not separate the two skid plate pieces.

It has hanger hooks on the front. Take out the two front outside bolts, and loosen the middle front bolt.
Do not touch the two middle bolts that join the two plates. They do not hold it to the truck.
Roll feet-first under the skid (with your body under it) and reach down to undo the back two bolts completely. Your body/knees let you control lowering the plate as a single assembly.
Reach forward and undo the last center front bolt. Unhook the front edge frome the holes in the frame.
Rest the whole skid on you body and roll out.

Install is reverse, but do not tighten any bolts until you have all of them started.

 

Royal purple

 

OEM for me. as others have referenced, there's a great thread started by chris4x4 showing the internals of a number of different filters.

OEM filters can be had for very cheap (~$4) and look to be very good quality.

 

I did the same thing.
I thought Id try the toyota filters after I read the filter comparison thread.
I swear it ran better after I switched to toyota.

Just sayin.....

 

I don't think it will change the way it feels but ill go buy a case at cost tomorrow only $11 so who cares

 

That's the anti-drainback valve, and it depends on the engine.
The 2.7, and the 2.4 in my wife's Rav4, the filter is inverted. Nowhere for the oil to go.
The V6? Ya... it can drain back, and it is a very important point on these engines.

 

i've only used toyota filters.