1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

What shock valving for rear long travel?

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by rzimm001, Oct 30, 2010.

  1. Oct 30, 2010 at 6:03 PM
    #1
    rzimm001

    rzimm001 [OP] Tearmytaco

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2009
    Member:
    #14812
    Messages:
    967
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bobby
    Wildomar
    Vehicle:
    08 PreRunner SR5 Mid-travel
    King 2.5 coilovers w/ resi and adjustable compression. Factory spindles w/ ALLPRO gussets. Total Chaos tower gussets. Energy Poly cab mounts and steering rack mounts. Light Racing UCA's. Glassworks fenders. DMZ bed cage. King 2.5x14 smoothbody remote resi shocks in the rear. Icon progressive add a leaf 1.5" lift. Race radio (2meter). Removed swaybar. Removed front mud flaps. Removed secondary carbon air filter. Magnaflow exhaust. Phram fresh air cabin filter. Sirius satellite radio. HID headlights high/low beam and fog lights. Remote start system. K&N replacement filter, After market stereo with 10" subwoofer, Grillcraft grill, custom fabled roof rack with 7" HID's, TRD seat covers.
    To all you long travel guys who have ever played around with your shock valving on the rear setup of a 2nd gen taco. First gen is considerably lighter but if somebody has valving specs for a first gen I'd be interested as well. what shims are you running? I'm not long travel but I'm using 2.5x14 remote resi shocks and I think the valving is a little firm for mobbing through the dezert. Currently I'm running a pyramid stack of .015 thickness shims. I'd say the rear is about 20% more firm than the front Icons I have. Just curious if anyone has a valving spec that has really worked well for them.
     
  2. Oct 30, 2010 at 7:20 PM
    #2
    username

    username Fluffer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2010
    Member:
    #44704
    Messages:
    4,570
    Pendleton, Or
    Vehicle:
    05 Taco with some crap welded to it
    mostly stock
    The short answer is their is no valving guide. The long of it is that it depends on your particular setup. Your "firm" valving might seem soft to me, especially on my truck as I have a 1:1 ratio and 1800 lbs sitting on my rear axle. The next factor is that it depends on terrain and speed over the terrain, axle and wheel/tire weight etc. My truck seems firm to most, but I have to really do something stupid to bottom it out and my tires stay planted, so it works for me. Bypass shocks make valving easy because I can turn a screw to dial it in and revalve when I run out of screw, but there really isn't a shortcut for smoothies. Just get a .10 stack and mix and match until you are happy. Get a couple quarts of oil (seems like you always lose some) and head for the desert. You can dial it in with a couple hours of time.

    EDIT: I didn't realize you weren't long travel. The stock Icon's are super mushy, revalve those first. It's not a bad idea to bump up the spring rate a notch too. Adrian@ Icon does repair work on thursdays, stop by and see him, might revalve them on the spot for next to nothing...
     
  3. Oct 30, 2010 at 7:34 PM
    #3
    rzimm001

    rzimm001 [OP] Tearmytaco

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2009
    Member:
    #14812
    Messages:
    967
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bobby
    Wildomar
    Vehicle:
    08 PreRunner SR5 Mid-travel
    King 2.5 coilovers w/ resi and adjustable compression. Factory spindles w/ ALLPRO gussets. Total Chaos tower gussets. Energy Poly cab mounts and steering rack mounts. Light Racing UCA's. Glassworks fenders. DMZ bed cage. King 2.5x14 smoothbody remote resi shocks in the rear. Icon progressive add a leaf 1.5" lift. Race radio (2meter). Removed swaybar. Removed front mud flaps. Removed secondary carbon air filter. Magnaflow exhaust. Phram fresh air cabin filter. Sirius satellite radio. HID headlights high/low beam and fog lights. Remote start system. K&N replacement filter, After market stereo with 10" subwoofer, Grillcraft grill, custom fabled roof rack with 7" HID's, TRD seat covers.
    Haha I bought my icons from adrian and have his number on speed dial. I'm always asking him for good setup tips. He's revalved the front once already since I've gotten them. Funny shit

    I'm thinking of getting a stack of .010s and see what happens. The icons are definitely soft by pro racing standards but I'm thinking for my situation I would benefit more from softening the rear valving. One question though. Would you say that the front and rear should feel roughly similar in how firm they are. Like I said, I can definitely feel that the front is less firm than the rear. Isn't there a balance to be maintained?
     
  4. Oct 30, 2010 at 9:00 PM
    #4
    username

    username Fluffer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2010
    Member:
    #44704
    Messages:
    4,570
    Pendleton, Or
    Vehicle:
    05 Taco with some crap welded to it
    mostly stock
    Depends on the terrain. Calico is slow and off camber so soft/soft works great there. Lucerne is mostly fast rollers and g-outs with a few choppy sections so medium front/ soft rear works well there (as long as you aren't bottoming out on either end). Barstow is super gnar rough so firm front medium rear works well there, but the "balance" is more about weight distribution than valving. Get it as close to 50/50 front to rear as you can, with the center of gravity under the "B" pillar. Hard to do with a stock rig though. Either way, as soon as you start bottoming out you have to A) revalve, or B) slow down.
     
  5. Oct 31, 2010 at 8:34 AM
    #5
    rzimm001

    rzimm001 [OP] Tearmytaco

    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2009
    Member:
    #14812
    Messages:
    967
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bobby
    Wildomar
    Vehicle:
    08 PreRunner SR5 Mid-travel
    King 2.5 coilovers w/ resi and adjustable compression. Factory spindles w/ ALLPRO gussets. Total Chaos tower gussets. Energy Poly cab mounts and steering rack mounts. Light Racing UCA's. Glassworks fenders. DMZ bed cage. King 2.5x14 smoothbody remote resi shocks in the rear. Icon progressive add a leaf 1.5" lift. Race radio (2meter). Removed swaybar. Removed front mud flaps. Removed secondary carbon air filter. Magnaflow exhaust. Phram fresh air cabin filter. Sirius satellite radio. HID headlights high/low beam and fog lights. Remote start system. K&N replacement filter, After market stereo with 10" subwoofer, Grillcraft grill, custom fabled roof rack with 7" HID's, TRD seat covers.
    Definitely makes sense what you're saying.

    I talked to Adrian about it and he said that I should just try pulling out some shims. I have a stack of six 015 shims on compression and he suggested I pull out three. I do tend to hit terrain with fast rollers so that sounds like a good start. Is there any perks or drawbacks to having more or fewer shims? I was thinking of just replacing a few 015 shims with .010 shims but like I said before, Adrian suggested just pulling a few out. Opinions?
     
  6. Oct 31, 2010 at 5:01 PM
    #6
    username

    username Fluffer

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2010
    Member:
    #44704
    Messages:
    4,570
    Pendleton, Or
    Vehicle:
    05 Taco with some crap welded to it
    mostly stock
    The shaft speed will increase a little by removing a few, but that's kind of the point. It won't hurt anything to try, and it's free. I like free.
     
To Top