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What the F*** don't I get?

Discussion in 'Suspension' started by Nick54, Jun 8, 2011.

  1. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:17 AM
    #1
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is there something I'm not getting here? I have a 2010 TRD Sport DC LB with the rear TSB. I installed Bilsteins all around - front's set at 0. Wrapped them in Eibach coils and installed LR UCA's - after many adjustments, now set at 0. I'm rolling on Duratrac 265/70/17 mounted on Procomp 7033's with 4.75 setback. I cannot get a good alignment and no rub.

    Should I set Bills at .85 (I'm not dead level at 0, front 1" lower than back) and start over with the UCA's?

    Do I dump the tires for a 265/65/17 which was stock?

    Other recommendations?

    I'm a patient guy but honestly it's beginning to wear thin.


    FINALLY - NOT PERFECT .....

    But a heck of a lot better. After the adjustments made in the post above, these were the results prior to alignment. Left Camber +1.4, Caster +4.3. Toe +.38 - Right Camber -.4, Caster +4.9, Toe +.56 After the alignment Left Camber +.4, Caster +4.0, Toe -0.02 - Right Camber +.03, Caster +4.7, Toe +0.09. I think if I were doing the wrenching, I would have pushed for better Toe but at this point I don't think I'm going to eat the tires off the truck and the handling seem very good. Big + no tire rub anywhere. So I think the biggest take away here is if your rubbing after tire and lift changes you may want to consider first pushing your lower ball joints either forward (for rear well rub) or backward (for front well rub) then start working with the ball joint position to get your alignment numbers where you need them. I had to drive the LCA forward adjusters so that the bolts were fully inboard 3 o’clock (driver side) 9 o’clock (pass side) position and the rear adjusters fully outboard 9 o’clock (driver side) and 3 o’clock (pass side) looking from rear of truck, to get the wheel out of the rear of the well and centered in the well. I'm hoping this saga will save someone else some time and money. BE SURE YOUR INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE LR UCA's IS NOT REV. 6/10 Bottom Right Corner of Page. It is mirror image backwards and will totally screw you up trying to get the ball joint position set correctly. The rev. I finally used was 2/11 thanks to PRS 2 TiFJ, TW member.
     
  2. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:20 AM
    #2
    BFA

    BFA Nuttier than squirrel shit.

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    4.5" backspacing is stock for tacomas. the more backspacing the more your wheel is tucked in and closer to the frame and more rubbing.
     
  3. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:27 AM
    #3
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Beside chucking brand new wheels, is there a fix?
     
  4. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:28 AM
    #4
    NetMonkey

    NetMonkey Well-Known Member

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    wheel spacers?
     
  5. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:36 AM
    #5
    BFA

    BFA Nuttier than squirrel shit.

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    id same maybe some spidertrax? 1.25" spacers but pretty expensive and as far as your alignment goes it should be fine maybe slightly off if at all, maybe the shop is just retarded?
     
  6. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:38 AM
    #6
    PreRunnerSeth

    PreRunnerSeth Well-Known Member

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    Spidertrax will make him rub worse. I think he needs to find a better alignment shop. with 265s theres no way he should be rubbing. unless thats a typo and hes running 285s. In that case. need to know if he has removed the mud flaps and such.
     
  7. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:40 AM
    #7
    TheHansen

    TheHansen Well-Known Member

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    where are your rubbing?
     
  8. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:41 AM
    #8
    BFA

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    i dont know of any other spacer besides those cheap 1/4" spacers.. would be worth a shot to try those though.
     
  9. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:41 AM
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    BFA

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    probably should have asked that... im only slightly retarded
     
  10. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:43 AM
    #10
    Pugga

    Pugga Pasti-Dip Free 1983 - 2015... It was a good run

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    Depends on what's rubbing. If the tire is rubbing the UCA, spidertrax will space him out to help his problem, if it's rubbing the body or the mud flaps, it could make it worse. He's most likely rubbing because it sounds like he changed the backspacing on the wheels in which case wheel spacers would solve the problem. With stock wheels, you shouldn't rub with that set-up.
     
  11. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:44 AM
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    BFA

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    im guessing the frame and maybe the uca..
     
  12. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:52 AM
    #12
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    The only rubbing I am certain of is the rear of the wheel well. Without flaps just barely no rub, with them rub. The tires extend beyond the fender flairs and throw crap all up the side of the truck without them. I know its sounds stupid but removing the flaps is not a good option for me, unless absolutely no other way. No typo on the tire size 265/70/17
     
  13. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:57 AM
    #13
    BFA

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    well stick your head in there and look for clean spots along the frame and along the plastic liner and tell us what you see
     
  14. Jun 8, 2011 at 8:59 AM
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    Burgman

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    Im guessing the added camber? The ucas are giving u that u dont need fir that tire size
     
  15. Jun 8, 2011 at 9:13 AM
    #15
    bjmoose

    bjmoose Bullwinkle J. Moose

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    Man, Nick, you are going around and around with this. I understand your frustration at this point. To summarize what we've got here is:

    1. Moderate lift with Eibach coils - say 1.5" ?

    2. Increased wheel diameter - 32" vs. stock of 31" (265/70R17 vs 265/65R17)

    3. Increased wheel "negative offset" ProComp 7033 has 4.75 backspace on 9" wide rim (-6mm offset)

    4. Still running factory mudflaps.

    Both 2 and 3 require increased wheel well clearance, right? You might be able to get away with one or the other keeping stock mudflaps - but apparently not both, as evidenced by the rubbing.

    I'll take your word that setting the LR UCAs at the -1 setting didn't let you align the truck.

    So, I think your choices come down to:

    1. remove the mudflaps, which you say you don't want to do

    OR

    2. go back to factory rim which has more positive offset. Spacers WILL NOT help here - as they're moving the wheel THE WRONG WAY increasing negative offset, which will make the problem WORSE not better.

    OR

    3. go back to factory tire size 265/65R17

    OR

    4. Go back to the alignment shop and try increasing your Caster "out of spec" using the assymetrics to go as far forward as possible on the caster to something like +3 to +4 to move the wheel forward in the wheel well. That sounds bad, but legend has it that the caster on the 2WD non-pre runner tacoma is running caster of something like +5???

    OR

    5. Try going back to factory upper control arms - most folks only find they need them when lifted higher than you are currently lifted.

    I'm not so sure more height by setting the 5100s to .85 will help - the mudflaps limit your clearance on the "X Axis" (that is, forward and back) so you might still be hitting the darn things.
     
  16. Jun 8, 2011 at 9:17 AM
    #16
    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    On first gens. Second gens have 5.5"
     
  17. Jun 8, 2011 at 9:18 AM
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    BFA

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    my bad.
     
  18. Jun 8, 2011 at 9:21 AM
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    98tacoma27

    98tacoma27 is gooder 'en chicken Moderator

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    OP, I would go to .85 and realign
     
  19. Jun 8, 2011 at 9:26 AM
    #19
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Steve, you pretty much nailed it. Tonight when I get home I will verify my caster, I believe it's already set +6 (driver side) and +5 (pass side) range and the truck is pushing right. At this point I am only hitting the mud flaps. If I raise up to .85, will I bring the UCA's into play on alignment? I get what your saying about the spacer not working for me. I guess if .85 won't help then I'm selling like new Duratracs (sucks)
     
  20. Jun 8, 2011 at 9:28 AM
    #20
    Nick54

    Nick54 [OP] Well-Known Member

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    So am I to understand that at 4.75 backspacing I'm good?
     
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