What to do for seized alignment cams?

Use a ratchet straps and tie it to the other side LCA. They may come down further.

 

The potential issue I see with the Whitelines is they don't appear to be tapered. On OEM and most other aftermarket bushings there is a 'mushroomed' section at the bottom of the bushing - about 3/8" on the OEM and Moogs, and 3/4" on Mevotechs. It is only this section that makes contact with the LCA. It appears that the entire surface area of the Whiteline bushing will make contact with the LCA. This would translate into a lot of pressure to install them, and to remove them down the line.

I measured about 56.5mm OD on the mushroomed section of the large bushing and 55mm OD on the non-mushroomed section. This is using a cheap HB plastic caliper, just for comparison purposes.

 

Just curious, is there any way of preventing the OEM bushings from seizing before its time for replacement?

 

@VaGlock
You bring up a 2nd issue. The original post is about the alignment cam assembly sleeve seizing inside the bushing's metal sleeve. That can be prevented by removing it and coating the outside sleeve with grease. The bolt that goes inside can also be coated but I have not heard if it seizing. And it's usually the front cams that seize as they face forward and take the most abuse from the elements, although many members have reported all 4 cams seizing.
Your question is about the bushing seizing to the LCA, which is a common issue for all vehicles. This is difficult to prevent unless you remove the bushing from the LCA, coat it with grease, and press it back in - not a practical practice. Since there is a 1 mm clearance; maybe, you can spray some silicone into that space with those read skinny straws that come with some sprays.

 

Thanks, I have read many threads about the cams and bushings being seized and if there is anything I can do too help prevent it from happening I am willing to put in the effort.

 

this sounds like a very good idea, it cannot hurt to try this because Silicone will not harm rubber as far as I know unless there is Petroleum dissalates in it. there are also oil injection needles to inject it farther, definetly couldn't hurt to try this as long as the lubrication oil doesn't adversely affect the rubber. very good idea

BSTEAN 10ml Syringes 14Ga 1.5" Blunt Tip Needle Storage Caps - Glue Applicator, Oil Dispensing (Pack of 5)

https://www.amazon.com/10ml-Syringe...pID=519MTwMVFxL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

 

me too

 

I spent the better part of today trying to do this. The back ones are adjusted just by the bolt. The front ones have the bolt through a sleeve. The front cam plate on the front sleeves comes off with a chisel.
My sleeves are stuck tight. I did the 1/2" bolt through with a big shim and tried pressing the passenger side one out. I already smoked one grade 8 bolt and nut. I now have another one on it with a lot of pressure on it and have been spraying around the sleeve with PB Blaster. We'll see if it relaxes over night.
If it doesn't, I'm going to buy the removal tool from Wheeler's Offroad. I've replaced bushings before on another Toyota and don't really want to go that route now if I can avoid it. I may end up there though if I can't get these damned things out.

 

+"I spent the better part of today trying to do this."

Are you working on your 2014, if so how many miles on your truck? The reason I ask, is this something that happens normally on a 4 year old truck? I see also you are in Illinois so you must see some major snow and salted roads.
Here in Virginia they have started putting down salt brine before any hint of snow, and that stuff is terrible on vehicles. The vehicles are covered in salt before the snow even comes down and sometimes it never even snows.

 

I think I'm at about 56,000 miles right now. Our winters have been pretty mild for the last couple of years but I drove through some water on some flooded roads a couple of years ago. It didn't make it up to the body of the truck but I'm sure it soaked the LCA cam bolts. I got all of the bolts out but those damned sleeves.....
I'll report back when I finally get them out whether it's with the home made bolt assembly, the removal tool or a Sawzall. I keep my frame welds painted and lube the frame, rockers and doors pretty regularly so the rest of my undercarriage is in pretty good shape.

 

There have been more than one person pull the cams on their new trucks and treat them to anti-seize or other. It was one of the first things I did to my new taco. I started using the Permatex marine grade stuff. Also pull the O2 sensors and use a nickel anti-seize on the threads.

 

I should know this but where are the 02 sensors?

 

how hard and whats involved with pulling and greasing the cams? is a new alignment needed afterwards?

 

Anyone have a page from the manual that shows the LCA and cam bolt assemblies? Thanks in advance

 

These Beck/Arnley LCAs any good?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2010,tacoma,4.0l+v6,1445515,suspension,control+arm,10401

 

Yes this! If you do the O2 sensors just be careful not to put on too much antisieze that it gets on the sensor itself. Spark plugs too.

 

Got some from eBay the other day after learning mine were seized and I couldn't get the total Chaos cam tab gussets done. They were $128 shipped to my door and are of surprisingly great quality:

 

I’ve never done it on these in particular but they can possibly be driven out with an air hammer? Done this to drive out rivets on truck frames. For things that are frozen “shocking” is a great way to free up frozen fasteners. Brute force usually snaps them.

 

Hmm, I like this idea. Maybe that and some heat