What # to torque wheel lugs too?

Just reading about rotor/brake issue,and it is recommended you torque the lugs. I have a 99 4 banger SR-5, what # should they be torqued too?? thanks!

 

This, i was told just to torque them to 80-85.
Or just get them tight with a lug wrench (mechanical, not electric), i've found that me pulling pretty hard gets them to ~80.

 

My Pro Comp wheels came with instructions for 80-85ft-lbs

 

I've found that if I tork 'em to the official 80 foot pounds, then I would not be able to remove them, if I got a flat tire while on the trail. Way too tight.

I use the 'old man' one-grunt method.

I snug 'em up while off the ground, lower the jack, and tighten em with a star wrench to what I call 'one grunt'. Worked fine for 20 years now. I always carry that star wrench in the back. I think whats important is to tork all six to the same. These are not head bolts that have to be exactly tork'd.

I think shops over-tork them (to spec) because of potential law-suits. When I get new tires, as soon as I get back to my garage, I always break out my breaker-bar to loosen the nuts and re-tork down to 'one-grunt'. Hate to be stuck out on the trail and not be able to get them off after trashing a tire.

YMMV

 

^^ I agree with above. If you torque them with an air gun too much then they are a bear to take off on the side of the road. I usually tighten them while still in the air by hand to seat the lug nuts and then drop the jack. Ill go all the way around with the socket and breaker bar until snug and then do the star pattern with an extra quarter turn. This is usually adequate.

 

I have a big ass 3.5 foot breaker bar. I just ask because there seems to be alot of rotor-warp going on, and this may help solve it. So will the new rotors I'm looking at.

 

When I remove/replace tires, I torque them until they feel good & tight using the star pattern & never had any problems. I guess after 20+ years of driving I'm doing it wrong, lol.

 

Don't use a breaker bar on your lug nuts.

 

Why not?

 

83 ft lbs!! Criss cross pattern when tightening them, double check afterwards.

A lot of shops use torque sticks, which have a preset torque for an impact gun, but are designed for a certain air pressure, shops always use a pressure way higher so lug nuts are way over tightened. I worked at toyota and used an 80lb torque stick which actually tightened lugs to about 120 or so.. Get a torque wrench (not harbor freight) and evenly tighten your lugs, will help prevent rotor runout

 

If you can't loosen a lug nut tightened to 80rlft-lbs maybe next time you get a flat call AAA. that's what my wife does.

 

There is a difference between 80lbs on an alloy wheel and 80lbs on a steel wheel. Steel wheels can be harder to take off because a layer of rust will set in where the lug has worn away the paint of the wheel

 

It is important to get the correct torque for all of the lug nuts. Having one or more that are at a different torque can, and many times has, caused rotor warping.

Technically, yes you have. 20+ years ago it was not such a big deal. With today's automobiles torque spec, including wheel lug nuts, are much less tolerable to variances. Sure, you have not had any trouble with the way you have been doing it, but yes, you have been doing it wrong. Not being a smart ass, but just stating the facts. Rotors warp all the time due to incorrectly torqued lug nuts.

If you look at the air pressure specs for the torque sticks it lists a MINIMUM spec. The metal of the torque stick is designed to not allow anything past the rated torque to transfer, even with different pressures. You know, if you have worked in shops before, that impact guns vary from brand to brand, and type to type. If air pressure or air flow were an issue with torque sticks, then they would have limitations on the guns as well. If you had a stick that was over torquing, then the stick itself has lost its metal elasticity properties.

 

Well mine have not warped so I'm pretty sure my method works just fine.

 

And like I said, it does not always happen, but it is very common that the rotors warp due to incorrect torquing of the lug nuts. My intention is not so much to say your method does not work for YOU, but that it is not the correct method to do it, and may cause someone ELSE a problem if they do not get them to the proper torque. I always do my best to provide people with the correct information, not "What has worked for me".

 

Gotcha, not meaning to disrespect you I just know that there are a lot of know-it-all's on here that think their way/opinion is always best. I have never had issues thus far doing it the way I always have, but I know some things change & certain things need special attention to prevent damage. Thanks for the heads up!