What Wire Gauge Did Toyota Use for Factory 400W Inverter?

I believe it's under the center console.

Also how much did they fuse the factory 400W inverter for?

Thanks

 

Let me guess. You are trying to up the max output on the factory inverter? If I remember correctly I believe the limitation itself is integrated into the actual inverter unit itself and that's where the bottleneck is. That being said there is really no point in trying to up the output of it. That is, unless you are an expert in circuit board upgrades, then I'm sure it can be done.

Maybe I should give it a stab myself.

 

It is easy to upgrade the inverter.

Unplug and remove original inverter.

Verify wires can handle the load of the upgraded inverter.

Install and connect new upgraded inverter.

Done.

 

Do you have a part number for an upgraded inverter?

 

Agreed.


As long as the wires and outlet can handle it.

The wiring part should be simple.. Using the factory switch is feasible but both modes probably isn't wanted or easily feasible.

 

If the wire is a #10 then it's all ready at the max.

 

No. A google will show you the way my son:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Electrical/Power-Inverter/_/N-4blw

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Power+Converter!s!Inverter/N0202/C0107.oap

 

#10 can handle a lot more than 3 amps or 400w

 

400 watts at 12.7 volts is over 31 amps. Now on the 120 volt side you can use a much smaller wire.

 

Owners manual page 458:

I'm assuming thats the fuse in question?

Also assuming they used a pretty 'heavy gauge' wire to the center console...?

Has anybody successfully used that wiring for an aftermarket inverter (similar or lesser capacity than 400W OE inverter)?

 

My '14 is an SR5, not a TRD and so it only has the small gauge logic/on/off wiring - no heavy gauge power supply pre-wired under the center console. The one option I wanted from the TRD that didn't come with the SR5 was the factory inverter. The extra $1600 just wasn't worth it for a 400W inverter for me. So now I'm installing an inexpensive aftermarket 400W inverter ($24 @ Harbor Freight). No specific needs, save maybe recharging a tablet or camera batteries.

Instead of purchasing heavy gauge wire by the foot I picked up an inexpensive 8ga jumper cable set ($9 @ Harbor Freight) and cut the wire from it.

I'm temporarily locating the inverter under the driver's seat with some stand-offs to keep it above the carpet for now. I may eventually relocate it under the center console but that will require some surgery to the inverter itself to relocate the on/off switch and LEDs... more than I have time for right now. I'll just leave some extra cable length for later.

Several posts mention going through a grommet and running the wiring along the brake lines. I don't like the idea of the heavy ampered cable exposed under the truck or near the fuel lines. I found there is an extra unused rubber protrusion in the main wire harness grommet on the driver's side. I cut off the tip and, after using plenty of silicone grease, was able to push the positive battery cable through... It's certainly a tight fit. Cable will run along the sill and up under the seat like the other factory wiring.

I'll ground the inverter to a threaded mount under the center console, scratching off some paint.

I plan to use one of those large clear plastic fuse holders inline near the battery/fuse box. For starters am trying a 30A fuse. If that proves insufficient I'll work my way up to a 50A.

 

I would think that the instructions for the Harbor Freight Special would inform you what size fuse for the incoming power and what gauge wire ... did you look?

 

Note- There is a chassis ground point to the frame right under the seats, a grommet there under the seat already has wire running out under the truck. I used this for grounding my AMP under the passenger seat. Just take off the tape on the end of the grommet, lube up the wire, push it through and re-tape the end of the grommet back up.

 

Yes