What you need to know about lifting a 2016 Tacoma - Presented by Toytec Lifts

For awhile. The stock UCA is just not designed to hold that angle for a really long time. It will pre-maturely wear out. Depending on how you use your truck that could be 1yr or it could be 3yrs. Just keep in the back of your head that you should upgrade those at some point in the future when your funds are re-stocked.

 

See my reply above this one. The same would apply for you if you went 2.5" or less. But I am pretty sure you already got the anewer to this today.

 

What's the average cost ?
And thanks

 

They range from about $450 to $1500 depending on how much bling you want.

 

Haha yes I did and thanks for the tip!! David was extremely helpful and knowledgeable! Got me on the right track and had the reasons why!! Pretty sure imma do the boss system, CMC and just do 285/55 20's with a 20x9 -18 wheel. It'll be a month or so but I really wanted to just pull the trigger today while I was on the phone lol.

 

Well David will be ready for your order when you are ready to pull the trigger. I have always been impressed with @ToyTec Lifts customer service.

 

@CMFK73 Life is going to suck with a 2" block, I had major axle wrap. I now have Dakars, but if I were to do it again, I'd go with a 3 leaf add-a-leaf kit, and save a bit of money.

 

I have to agree with this even if you only occasionally go off road. Toytec has a multitude of AAL options that you can add into what you discussed with David today.

 

Foot in mouth, my bad, this is ToyTec's thread. I use lots of vendors on here.

 

All good man. You bring up a good point and that helps guide others in their decisions.

 

Hey fellas and felletes, I'm looking to put a lift on my Taco. 90% of the time I'll be driving my Taco on the road, however I want a lift that will keep my on road feel the same or improve it and allow me to have some fun in the mountains. Not planning on doing hard core trails, mainly getting through trails when I go hike 14ers and some occasional moderate off-roading. What lift do y'all recommend? Details would be helpful. Appreciate the help

 

What's an ADD bearing?

 

This is not meant as a discouragement to lifting your vehicle. Please note: this is just to inform you.

If you are not willing to spend thousands of dollars, don't mess with your suspension's ride height.

Here is the scoop. If you change your ride height, you need to fix all of the suspension and driveline geometry you just threw out of whack. Non-negotiable.

Let's start with the front... Raising the front requires you to correct the roll center, camber gain, bump steer, Ackerman steering, and then an front end alignment. The first 4 cost a lot of money. Don't forget: if you have a 4wd, then you need to correct the driveline geometry you just messed up. Again, money.

Now for the rear... Raising the rear cause less trouble than the front, but you need to be diligent none the less. The most important thing you need to correct is driveline geometry. With a 2 piece driveshaft, there are a lot of angles to be mindful off. These must be corrected when lifting a vehicle. Roll center needs to be considered as well, but this is very minor. Last, a front end alignment to correct the faster you just through out. Finally, you need to test for vibrations in the driveline and correct as needed.

Failing to correct the geometry after a lift results in a realization that you paid money to make your vehicle worse. Though, to be fair, it may look a little nicer.

 

Something of concern came up during a conversation today with a new coworker. He has a 15' he used a Toytec AAL as part of his Toytec/5100/Total Chaos 3/2 lift. I realize this is a 3rd gen thread but there isnt much difference between the 2nd and 3rd gens when discussing the rear suspension. Here is what he told me. After the install of his lift, he towed his boat. The boat was well within the tow rating of the factory specs. When he took the boat off the AAL had actually flattened out and stayed this way causing loss of all lift from the AAL. He also noted that the AAL was rather noisy. I understand that an AAL engages right away with the factory pak and have read they are better for handling loads etc. What do you think the issue was to cause this to happen? This is very concerning to me because I still want to have some towing/hauling capabilities and an AAL is on my list to do.

Btw, he since moved to the full Dakar pak and has had zero issues under loads of any kind.

 

An AAL is a solid solution for lifting the truck and occasionally carrying more load. It is not a solution for lift if you plan to tow or carry extra weight all the time. You need a new complete spring set designed for that like the Dakars.

On top of this the factory springs are horribly soft. So the AAL is doing a ton of extra work to hold things up. A 3 leaf AAL should last longer since it is using 3 leaves to help out the weak factory springs.

 

Thank's @Gramps. I've read many of your responses on lifts and you seem to know what you are talking about. At least you make sense to me. When thinking about AAL and loads this seems pretty obvious to me.

Thanks again!

 

Well said Gramps. A complete leaf pack, with an appropriately matched dampener (shock absorber) is always the best way to go. Proper driveline angles should be carefully confirmed as well.

 

Btw, I don't plan on hauling/towing heavier loads all the time. But when I do I want the performance from my rear suspension. I plan on keeping my 3rd gen for many, many years and want the lift done properly. I don't want to get into the rear suspension down the road if a mono AAL fails me. I want it done right the first time. Even if that means I need to wait longer to save money for the Dakar. Which it seems that would be the right choice for the long term even though my towing/hauling heavier loads is done occasionally. Does this sound right?

 

Also, I would advise you to choose a front spring rate (and of course matching valved dampeners) that compliments the higher spring rate rears, or you could end up with an undesirable over-steer condition.

 

Seems most aftermarket front spring rates I'm seeing with OME are around 590. I'm hoping the 5100 would match what you are saying properly. I've seen some setups like this using the Dakar but for me personally, I have no idea if this matches or not. It also seems its a big secret what those specs are from the well known manufacturers.