What's Leaking in cylinder 6 ?

That stuff was pretty thin. It had the consistency of maybe rubbing alcohol.

We'll see

 

Wait, I'm starting to get some heat.
Maybe the product attached to some crud in the heater core?

It seems to have pushed through.

I assume this is why the instructions says to add it while the system is flowing. Also it says to idle for 50 minutes.

 

When you pulled the spark plug did it smell like gas? Maybe you have a leaking fuel injector on that cylinder. Are you loosing coolant?

 

Within maybe a week or two, i lost just under one quart of coolant.

When i first got the code, resivor was just above full cold (haven't touched that system in years). After i swapped coil/plugs, a few days later, code was coming back and resivor was just about empty cold. No visible leaks, my engine bay is completely clean.

The dirty plug didn't smell like gas. It smelled more like burnt something and was black/sticky.

 

Exactly what happened to my truck when my head gasket started going it was at cylinder 6 and would start rough when sitting for more then 6 hours. In the end it was $1,500.00 to get it replaced. Wish I could have done it myself but I don't have a place for the truck to sit while I work on it.

 

That's too bad. Looks like it may be the head gasket then. Sorry about that.

 

which bank is cylinder 6? is that the one on the drivers side closest the firewall?

 

Yes that's correct

 

oh boy

 

Update, i followed the directions exactly.
After she idled for 50 min, i turned off and let cool for 30 min, then opened rad cap and fluid level was fill, looking normal. Reservor was half way full.

I started engine again and let idle with heater on. It blew hot air and seemed to run normal.

We will see tomorrow after she sits over night, if there's still a leak.

I'm gonna pull the battery to clear the check engine light. Im putting a new battery today anyway.

 

I used K&W block seal on a head crack on a 4 cylinder '86 Isuzu Trooper. The were famous for cracking in the area of the valves and this was a replacement head that cracked again. It was an aluminum head on cast iron block. I followed the directions on the can exactly and it held pressure. I sold it, running well, to two guys that were into Troopers with full disclosure of the problem and I gave them the empty can so they would know what was used. It ran fine after that sealer but I don't know for how long after. I think they wanted the body and had an engine. Coolant would erupt from the overflow tank after the overheat. That was the symptom in this case.

As an aside, the reason the second one cracked.... We were shoveling snow and I started the Trooper to de-ice the windshield. I didn't notice that the grill and radiator were blocked with snow and ice. It boiled over in the driveway. Damage done, but it did have 186,000 miles on it. The original owner had the head replaced once too I think.

 

You only use head gasket sealer in a bottle to hide the bad head gasket when trading in a vehicle. If you plan on keeping it, you should do the repair the right way.

I had a WRX with a major leaking head gasket. I did not want to put any more money into so I used Blue Devil to stop the leak to make it look it doesn't have a problem to get max trade in value.

 

you dirty dirty man. SMH

 

So, after reading hundreds of reviews on these types of products, and looking up the MSDS, then dozens of articles, I think i have a thorough understanding of how sodium silicate works. It's actually not that complicated, but most of the negative reviews seem to be from people that don't understand anything automotive.

The potential for disaster is definitely present, but using the product exactly as intended under the conditions and parameters stated by the manufacturer gives me some confidence. I'm about to go start the truck, it will have been 24 hours since installation.

I'll report back

 

Update

Fired up fine
Idled smoothly
No code
No peanut butter
Got up to temp as normal
Heater blows hot as normal

New possible issue- its 40deg F and she wants to idle at about 1500rmp.
Sat in the lot for 5 min, she never went back down to 950rpm (like normal)
Drove around 5 min. Turned her off and started back up, idling like normal warm now at about 700rpm.

I'll update again tomorrow.

 

This^ If the plug was fouled black, that is likely fuel not coolant. If you are not sure, move the injector to another cylinder.

 

Your funky idle is just from replacing battery

 

You may now be able to put a lower pressure radiator cap on it and nurse it along for quite a while until you get the resources to fix it if you decide to. Let's see what happens over the next few days What did it cost ? A few dollars and some time. Just make sure radiator fins are clean and coolant level is checked often and kept full. Give it the best chance you can.

 

Was this on your 2007?
I got 2007 hopefully this won't happen to me

 

Noted.

Thanks