Whats the point of 35s?

You can't technically "fit" 40s with that set up, you have to sacrifice uptravel to roll on 40s with that kit. Properly done SAS will still be superior and not cost much more.

 

Except you run the risk of all of your electronics not working correctly with the sas. Im not sure how the rclt kit effects the electronics. Also SAS is not a drop in. From reading the MC forum, it specifically was designed as a bolt together kit.

 

You need armor not 35’s... okay BOTH

 

Fitting anything larger than a 35 and retaining full travel requires tubbing, no way around it. If you are OK with gimping uptravel a couple inches you could avoid it though.....Even with 35s, with how hes describing it, you won't be able to utilize all of the available travel of that kit without tubbing.

Apparently the spindles are supposed to be able to maintain ABS functionality. On a SAS you completely lose ABS and all its auxiliary systems since you would lose the stock bearings to full float hub Assemblies.

Some of the kit will be, but all of the steering rack upgrades that are being developed by Fab shops all require welding/drill/modifications to the cross member to fit the larger racks

 

Truth. My armor took a beating, but it saved everything except my driveshaft. Hence 35s.

 

Im just qoute what the website said. https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=103556.0

Hes got 37s with just the trimming he used for 285s. no tubbing.

 

Crawler guys have different standards for what is "fit". To them, they will do whatever it takes to stuff a bigger tire in, including gimping suspension travel.

Front tubbing for 37s on my truck with a +2 kit. An additional 3/4 inch track width won't change much.



There's no magic to fitting tires larger than 35s.... .you either put pucks in on your bump stops or you tub. Also consider that his kit pushes the wheel forward 1-2"...that will actually make the inference worse at the front of the wheel well for the sake of avoiding cutting the firewall.

 

I'll be that guy, and just point out that clearance is almost never the solution to the problem because the problem is poor choices on the path taken.

I have 33's and a 2.5/1 leveling kit. I have already taken this brand new truck with 5k miles down places that friends with super swamped 35s and up and 6" lifts cannot get out of because they arent picking the path properly. If the terrains low points are I nevitably deeper than the clearance to your rear differential, don't do it. All the armor and lifts in the world can't protect you from bad decisions.

That said, going from a 33 to a 35 is pretty ridiculous to consider as the answer to a scuffed skid plate. The equates to less than a 1" addition of lift, and costs you "1 of upward shock travel before it hits in the wheel well.

A little preplanning and saying nope when the road gets too rough will save you a lot of money, and frustration!

PS: I've never scraped anything underneath on this truck, and I'm still Rollin with the boys driving 35,37,40,44. Tires on 3-10" lifts in back trail washouts and logging roads. Just be smart!

 

Because they look awesome and give you more reasons to upgrade when you break stuff!

 

Well, if you have a leveling kit, you have already reduced up travel. And if the line taken is what matters most, why change factory size of tires at all? Just pick the line you need, use stock size.

You should totally be fine lol

 

This thread = lulz

There are like 4 people who have said something smart and/or accurate, the rest is all garbage.

 

wow...seriously? there are literally zero objects that would have remotely came close to "banging your undercarriage" in that last pic

Better add a snorkel, just in case you encounter any more small puddles!

 

I tried to offer good information then everyone went off the rails...

 

33"'s will clear all the speed bumps in the mall lot.

So no. You don't need 'em.

Try 39"'s instead.

 

35’s because it triggers everyone. Ha!

 

Starting with this post
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/whats-the-point-of-35s.623215/#post-21269271

 

cause fat chicks cant jump

 

63s or GTFO

 

1. I’m so glad I have Sun/Mon off from work or I’d be laughing obnoxiously in front of coworkers reading this damn thread while they think I’m stoned..

2. Let’s be honest - 35s on a 3rd gen just look sexy. 33s look good too, just not as good, although as a 2.7 owner without the added width of fender flares - 33s will look plenty good stance wise (something to consider)

3. I feel like if you’re beating the hell out of your truck running 35s, you’re at a point where SAS and 35+ would do you a world of good in all aspects.

As much as I think 2.7 + 5.29 + 35s on my 2017 AC Manual would be badass and “unique” for a 3rd gen, I think it’s a dumbass move as someone who wants his truck to last 8-10 years without major issues and commutes 30 miles round trip five days a week.

If I want to thrash my vehicle Up in the rubicon a few hours away, I’ll hop on Craigslist and get a 1st gen SAS on 35+ For the price of the lift you’d have to get to “properly” run 35s on IFS.

 

oh please. Just because you are running an easy trail with guys on 40's doesn't mean you are "rolling with them,". The reality is, they are "rolling" with you because youre truck can't do much more. I ran my stock truck up China wall with guys on 35s+ but that doesnt mean I can I just go anywhere they can.

It goes without saying that you need to have a proper line for an obstacle and many people choose harder or easier lines depending on their truck. I often pick a harder line by choice but often there isnt a choice. You are welcome to hit up the V-notch on chinaman and let me know which line you "pick..."

Additionally, your assumption of only 1" of clearance is incredibly superficial. No one legitimately offroads with 35+ psi. Everyone airs down. Have you ever measure your clearance between tires? Whats the clearance between an LT285@15psi vs a bias 35@8psi?