Wheel Backspacing and Offset Info

Again, I'm not knowledgeable enough to say yes or no, but it sounds to me like you'll be rubbing.
Most who mount 285/70r16, I believe have some issues and have to do some cutting/heating.
Ima thinkin' the 18's will, more so. Maybe that extra 1/2" lift over mine, is enough, but IDK
Before you pull the trigger, I'd search out someone running those, to confirm.
Even check with some that have the 16's.
As stated above, I'm runnin' LT275/70R17 on a 17x8 wheel w/ 2.5" lift, and I'm real close.
I'm sure I'd rub if I stuffed 'em while articulating the suspension @ full lock.
I'd search 285/70r16 +/or 285/70r18 and see if you can confirm.
Seems to me there are threads asking the same question.
Good Luck



CC

 

So icon recommends 285/70r16 for their stage 4 lift. I think I can get away with an 18" of at least I hope. Back to the search button

 

285 is tire width in mm, 70 is your sidewall and is 70% of your 285mm tread width 285x.70=199.5mm of Sidewall / 199.5mm=7.854307"
7.85" + 16" + 7.85" = 31.7" Tire/16"Wheel Diameter (.5" smaller diam than mine)
7.85" + 18" + 7.85" = 33.7" Tire/18"Wheel Diameter (1.5" larger diam than mine)
BIG DIFFERENCE
My Tire/Wheel Diameters are 32.2" for the A/T and 32.1" for The Blizzaks, and once again, I'm close
Also of Note: I had them set my alignment caster (picture front wheel of a shopping cart) @ 2.5°, instead of the 3°, everyone here, recommends.
Meaning my front wheel is more forward @ 2.5° than @ 3°.
0° is straight up and down or perfectly plumb. Picture the front wheel of the shopping cart again.
Each degree angles the wheel backward (shopping cart again). @ 3° I'd rub my mud Flap.
When you start going below 2.5° Caster (toward 0°), it will effect your steering.
Wandering on the highway, or having to pull you wheel back from lock instead of it straightening itself.

You will NEED to understand all these figures, to understand why a tire will rub.
Do your homework, or do it twice

My Tires Pictured Below........

And again, good luck

 

Hello all, looking for some 16" D wheel steelies for my 2001. Have been looking at some Vision Wheel 84 Series D windows with 4" backspacing but it has -12mm offset, wondering if it will hit my calipers. I'm also looking at some Allied Wheels 51 series with 0mm offset. What is the preferred sizing to not only not interfere with not only the OE brakes, but in case I want to go with Tundra's in the future? I'm also looking to have a wide stance vs. having to get spacers. If this is in some other sticky I must have missed it.

 

Thank you cape codder for the info.

 

You're Welcome
Always willing to share what little I know.
Hope you're making progress
Remember: Educate yourself


CC

 

Chose to get a bumper before wheels and tires... though the search for the right wheels will never be over.

 

So if I ran 16 X8.5 6-139.70 -25off set, would that clear the UCAs with 285/75/r16s? Or would going with a -12 offset be ok? -6 wasn't enough and I still grabbed the UCA with the tires.

 

Ok my turn to be the rookie. Im looking to run 17x8.5 with 4.5 BS and -05 offset. If i put 285/70 on there what will rub?

 

Im looking at XD Addicts 798 wheels. They have two different sizes, both in 17X9 rim.

Does anyone have pics of the blacked out Addicts in the typical 4.5 BS and 12 mm offset VS the 5.71 BS and 18mm offset? One distributer stated that the 5.7 would rub the brake calipers, another disagreed?


Looking at the 265 70 17 Toyo open country to wrap them in.

 

Is there a thread that talks about wheel spacers? I'm trying to pick a 1.25" spacer but I'm not sure what lug centric and hub centric means and what lugs are compatible with which spacer.

TIA

 

I'm running second gen stock wheels on my 1st gen and with 265/70/16 I rub the frame when turned all the way. Both sides but it looks like a bit more rubbing on the passenger side. I didn't realize what wheels I had when they came with the truck brand new in boxes. I took off the 15 inch 31's because they wouldn't pass inspection in Maine. After reading and posting for a few days I'm thinking of these spacers: https://www.uswheeladapters.com/shop/1-25-6x5-50-6x5-50-wheel-spacer/
Primarily it seems like I'll be getting the wheels back to where they belong and so I am not concerned with "stress" on the wheel bearings. I understand that ideally I'd have the correct wheels or smaller tires but it's what I have and I can't undo it now. I really do like the look of the newer "stock" wheels on the first gen. Anyone familiar with these spacers and is 1.25 inches enough? It seems like it will be plenty after looking at some other first gens with same size tires on stock first gen wheels. Thanks!

 

I wouldnt touch those personally. Always stick with adapters/spacetrs that are both wheel and hub centric.

 

Thanks Steveo! I thought the ones I posted on were hub centric. So I'm thinking that you found that they are not also wheel centric. Which honestly I know need to read up on! Spidertrax are wheel and hub centric then? As if I know what I'm saying!

 

Hey all Im new here and have read a gazillion threads on wheel size and fitment and have not found the answer Im looking for yet. Hoping someone here can give an answer so I can order a set of TRD SEMA wheels.

To begin, I have a stock height 2016 TRD Sport DCLB, I want to simply put black TRD SEMA wheels on my stock size 265/65-17 tires. My owners manual says my 16 taco either has 7" or 8" wide rims. According to tire distributors website, my tire will fit rim sizes 7.5-9".
What Ive found on flea bay is either 7 or 8" wheels, but what I cant determine is what offset to go with. They list 4mm, 12mm, or 15mm. I dont want to lift the truck nor add any spacers. I want to keep it as close to the stock width or stance as I can.
Can anyone say with certainty which offset will work for what I am looking for? Thanks in advance for any help. Next item to identify is correct exterior led conversion.

 

I have a question I'm currently running fuel deep hostages 20x12 with a -44 offset on 35s and I wanted to drop down to 17s or 18s methods but was wondering if the difference in offset would cause a problem with rubbing and if it does what size wheel spacers would I have to run for it not to rub. Really appreciate it.

 

if they are the mag style lugs then usually are hub centric. acorn style are usually rim centric.

right now i am trying to determine if moving off of my 16x8's (i forget back spacing) to level-8's striker-6 16x8.5's with 4.25" backspace with my 285/75 tires if i'll have rub issue. right now with lift, uca's, and bushwacker flares i dont really rub that much, have not done the frame alteration yet either.

 

I have read so many posts in this thread and my brain hurts. So much good information here, but I'm not positive I am comprehending it.

Let me explain my situation and hopefully someone can help me understand what to expect.

Tires are 285/70/17's

I own a set of TRD Pro wheels that are 7" wide with a positive 11mm offset. I am interested in a set of Method wheels that are 8.5" wide 0 offset.

What will change with the new wheels? With a 0 offset, would the tread be 11mm closer to the inner wheel well? Could I go from not rubbing with the 11mm positive offset to rubbing with the 0 offset?

Any input would be appreciated.

 

According to this illustration, having a negative offset should put your tires farther out away from the wheel well. You will have less backspace with negative offset - making the wheel stick out more.

http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server4000/366a8/product_images/uploaded_images/rimoffset.jpg

Your new wheels are 1.5" wider with 0mm offset. So it is 0.75" (19mm) wider on the inside and outside of the center line.
The added width to the insde is more than difference in offset. So inside rim of the new wheel will be 8mm closer to the wheel well than the old wheel.

At least that's how I understand it based on the graph.

 

Will these fit?...
I have a 2009 Tacoma 4 door long bed...

Wheels... bolt pattern 6x139.7 [6x5.5"] -44mm offset. 108.1Center Bore. 3.75 backspace

I know the bolt pattern is going to.

The center bore shouldn't be a big deal because I can just buy a hub ring kit.

But the offset and backspace worrie me. I don't plan on doing my lift for a few months and I don't want to buy them and waste the money if they won't work.