Wheel bearing/hub combo bolts too long

Hi all. Hope you can help with this one. Trying to replace front wheel bearings on 2006 4x4 TRD. Local garage charged $600 back in 2011. Found several options for bearing hub combos and have purchase 2 separate sets to do it myself. First from Maxspeedingrods.com and now Carparts.com. In both cases the 4 trapped bolts are longer than the originals. The taps on the truck are blind (not thru hole) so the bolts bottom out well before they fasten the bearing assembly. The first time I thought China screwed up and that's why the combo was only $100 for both sides. But I just received the other set from Car Parts.com and the same issue? Am I overlooking something?
The original bolts stick thru 0.55".
The new ones 0.89"?
See pix
What the what?

 

Unfortunately, you get what you pay for. That really sucks though.

 

4x4 vs prerunner hubs???

 

I looked up the Prerunners are got the impression that they were all 2WD.
Is that right?
This is a 2006 4x4 TRD. Everything about the bearing /hub is correct other than the captured bolt length.
Was hoping someone else had experience with this and could either tell me what I'm overlooking or if they've had luck cutting the bolts down and re-threading while captured in the hub..

 

Looks like there are no lock washers on the new bolts. Could this be where the length discrepancy is?

 

The washer and lock washer are there.
The length of the new bolts stick thru 3/8" or 0.375" (~10mm) more than the originals.

 

Return them. Napa has a kit with the O ring and the seal on the back side where the cv axle seats for just over $200.00

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NDP77010691

Edit:
Imo, for the time and agrivation you'll spend on trying to cut those bolts down, which i believe are hardened, it'll be quicker and easier to just get new and return the wrong ones.

 

Get a nut and washers to use as a cut off gauge. Put the washers and nut on the bolt and snug it up leaving .34” exposed. Cut off the excess then back the nut off to redress the threads and repeat. Honestly I’d be a little concerned about the quality of the part if they can’t get the bolt length correct.

 

Well, unless the one he's got is Dorman (who makes "NOE", which is nothing but a label) which looks possible.

Also, if it's Dorman (or, honestly, whatever white box brand) you can probably cut the bolts pretty easily, despite them supposedly being hardened.

On a slight side note, pretty sure I've got one or both going out. Look at the Dorman/NOE at work... lifetime warranty? Hells yes, I'm buying one, and a real quality bearing. Stick the Dorman in, get my good OE hub out & pressed into a quality bearing at my leisure, and swap them back out when I get to it... put the Dorman on a shelf for the next time!

 

Your original toyota wheel bearing assembly will probably need more than a bearing to rebuild it. The hub usually gets ruined too. That’s why most folks just buy the complete assembly.

 

Return all and go w this guy:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...x4-prerunner-nsk.537080/page-30#post-20347493

 

No reason for the hub to be ruined, unless one doesn't know how to press it out and damages it, or you run the bearing so long it gets enough play to rub on something.

Most people, even shop techs, are too lazy to get the inner bearing race off, though. I sell a decent bit of hubs at work for press-in bearings of all types because of that. I've had a few service managers from chain shops act like they can't possibly do the job without one if they're out of stock. Heaven forbid the tech have to do anything but press the old stuff out and toss it in the scrap bin!

Those are often the same ones who'll press the new hub into the new bearing and then press the whole thing into the knuckle by the hub, then say they got a crap bearing when it's howling 1000 miles later cuz they side-loaded the hell out of the bearing.

 

I've done wheel bearings on a 2008 4x4 and a 2010 4x4 and they both had bolts like your new hubs not like your old hub. Those bolts on your new hub w/washers look like factory bolts to me. Can we get a picture where the hubs mount I suspect that this is the problem not the hubs.

 

This is what I was referencing. Some of these bearings get replaced long after they begin to fail.
I don’t have a press so I would have to pay some stranger and trust it was done right. As you pointed out some folks and even some poorly trained techs would press on the outer race and likely ruin the new bearing during install.
I replaced both wheel bearing assemblies when one side failed and kept the old parts. I bought them from a trusted member on here. Had considered rebuilding the old parts to get some of the money back but having to pay someone to do the press work would probably kill any real profit.

 

Hi all, appreciate the feedback. Another rainy day here in New England. Perfect for changing out bearings. Maybe I'll try the nut/washer, cut off, back off method to shorten the bolts. Sounds reasonable.
It would be nice to crack this mystery though. Wish I took pics of the bearing assembly side of the knuckle when it was apart but did not.
All looked as expected though. I cleaned up all the surfaces before reassembling and nothing seemed out of place.
Here' a pic of the knuckle from the backside. Had to do a sanity check to make sure the taps really were blind and not thru-hole.
Are some knuckles thicker? Where does all that extra bolt length go?
One other thing to mention, since several have posted that the 4 captured bolts are 17mm, mine are 18mm - which was a pain cuz both wrench sets I had included 17mm and 19mm but not 18..

 

Stop being so cheap and trying to kludge a $50 wheel bearing assembly to fit your truck. The next thing that's going to happen is that you're going to cut the bolts off and then it's not going to fit for some other reason and you can't take it back. As mentioned above, if they can't even get the bolts right.....???? Seriously, 18mm head?

Buy a quality wheel bearing from a respected TW member that has supplied hundreds of bearings to TW members.

 

Thanks for your support..
Note that I got the idea of replacing the bearing as an assembly from Tacoma World. Didn't know that was an option until reading a thread.
There are several options on line with similar pricing. Tried two separate places already.
The picture of the one from NAPA looks like it has the same longer bolt length.
It seems strange that all these places bought up defective parts and are trying to pawn it off cheap.
There may be more to this and was hoping someone else could provide facts based on experience.
The 18mm head bolts are the ones on the truck now. Had a garage replace the originals with Moog in 2011.

Borrowing this image from another post for reference. Front side of knuckle..

 

Valid question and something that has me wondering if I should pull it back apart and re-evaluate.
Check out the first pic in the thread. The Loctite shows how deep the bolt threaded before stopping. And it was a hard stop. Tried backing it out and trying again without advancement. However, I didn't try poking around in there or chacing it with a tap. Maybe time for that if no one else has experienced this same issue.

 

A quick update on this. I gave up way too quick when trying to replace the drivers side bearing assembly. The one tap I tried had a burr and the garage that did the bearing last time used shorter bolts with 18mm heads.
Ran a tap in there and all was good to go. Both bearing hub assemblies replaced for $100 delivered! We shall see how long they last. Thank you for those who repled with helpful info. Mike