Wheel bearing replacement options

2015 TRD OR. Lifted the truck with Bilstein 6112s/5160s and Icon RXTs on option 1 a few months ago. 2” all around. Also had the ECGS bushing installed. I tried to install it myself but ended up having ECGS do it, mainly because their needle bearing removal tool was not manufactured correctly. But I also couldn’t get the CV out of the driver’s wheel hub. Not a show stopper but becomes important later. Also of note, the hub nut cap edge was bent up, like someone tried to remove it with a screwdriver.

So the lift created a vibe and the ECGS bushing fixed it not long after.

Then I started experiencing a vibe again, so I assumed it had to be a driveshaft geometry issue due to the rear lift. Bought shims and a carrier bearing spacer kit. But never installed either because I never was quite sure it was the driveshaft. Still felt like the front left part of the vehicle. Been driving me nuts.

I don’t have great shops in the local area so I bit the bullet and took the truck to the dealership for diagnosis. They said front driver’s wheel bearing with zero hesitation, which was a thought that had been creeping into my mind. Remember that CV fused to the hub, and the nut cap with a damaged edge? My theory is enough water got in through that nut cap to allow corrosion on the CV end and in the wheel bearing too. I wonder if the change in geometry may have finally caused the wheel bearing to become noisy.

Anyway, dealership wants about $800 to do the job. Two local shops are more in the $550-$600 neighborhood. None of these quotes include an alignment. One of the local shops is a pain in the ass to deal with because they don’t take appointments and the front desk is extremely difficult to deal with, but they do great work. The other shop had difficulty identifying the correct part number which made me wary, only ever used them for alignments in the past, but they have a good reputation.

So two questions, first, am I insane to let a dealership do this job for more significantly more $, the advantage being I can book the job in advance, get a loner if needed, and know they know the correct parts to order. Strangely enough, peace of mind. Second, do I need an alignment afterwards?

I would do this job myself and then consider an alignment, but I was unable to get the CV out of the hub previously. I’m just going to get stuck on that same step.

 

That's not how that works. The CV outer stub, that nut, and the cap are sealing... the CV stub, and the actual hub (what goes over the CV stub, and then your wheel mounts to), splines. The bearings themselves are sealed, inside the bolt-in housing, with some more seals.

You don't particularly need an alignment. I mean, theoretically there could be enough play that if you'd recently had an alignment done, it would've been with erroneous camber. But in that case it'd be so loud you wouldn't need a diagnosis to tell you what the noise is.

To be fair, it's not "a part" like most expect when you see a bolted-in bearing, unless you buy the Dorman assembly (which I personally wouldn't) or buy a pre-assembled one from a member here (which I would, but a shop wouldn't)... the bearing itself is separate from the hub, the seals are separate, and the bolts are captured upon assembly & only available from Toyota.

Personally, I put mine together with a Koyo bearing, Dorman hub, and good seals... took me about 10 minutes total. And if you want to DIY it... PB Blaster (or Kroil, or whatever creeping lube tou prefer) and a punch & BFH, or an air chisel & blunt tip if you have air, will get the CV free no problem... I refuse to believe otherwise in 7 years of southern weather. I've needed to heat some with a torch before... but that's more like 15-20 years old, and in the northeast.

 

Yeah the shop that was trying to look up the part was looking for a top assembly part number…I know there are other options but I definitely don’t know what options are best for the piece parts so thanks for that info. I’m sure I could order any of the piece parts however I want them and provide for pressing/assembly and then installation (well maybe Toyota wouldn’t accept this route).

I don’t necessarily trust 7 year old seals to keep water out, but if you’re saying there are multiple layers then perhaps it’s unlikely. I just find it hard to believe that there was enough corrosion to freeze the CV end to the hub AND that bearing went. Maybe the other side is equally frozen with a good bearing who knows. Yes it’s southern climate with no salt but also lots of beach driving for some. On the other hand my frame is beautiful.

As far as unfreezing the CV, I liberally soaked with Kroil overnight and then with PB Blaster in the morning, after I realized it was frozen. Went at it with punch and hammer, no luck, and then again with punch and hammer after heating it with a torch for about a solid minute. I’m not one to give up but at that point, not having air tools, I called it quits.

Now, I never did ask ECGS if they removed the CV at both ends when they did their install…obviously you can do it with the CV still in the hub, just have to disassemble more of the suspension.

Maybe I should order all the parts as you said, assemble, attempt myself and if unable to unfreeze the CV take to a local shop, I’d still save some money that way.

 

I just did both of my front bearings on the 5th. Ordered complete assemblies from an ebay seller that is a toyota master tech. I has koyo bearings, toyota oil seal and dorman hub. o ring is included. I recommend doing both of the seals as well.

 

Excellent, thanks. What was your install time per side? And if you don’t mind posting up the link to the assemblies I’d love to take a look.

 

These were the bearings https://www.ebay.com/itm/161936484299. Im a mechanic so its kind of tough to give time estimates but for me I was able to do the first side in two hours. Each side I did the bearing, and both seals as well as cleaning all the rust from the knuckle and cv axle seal location. the other side took an hour since I already had every tool I wanted and had a method to install the new seals.

 

Thanks — did you sand to remove the rust, or just scrape?

 

Die grinder with cookie sanding wheels. Im pretty anal about having a clean flat surface to put new parts on.

 

If you can do rotors, you can do the hubs.
You’ll need a 17mm wrench for the hub bolts.

The seals aren’t too bad. See link below for how I did it.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-wheel-bearing-and-hub.744976/#post-26522738

 

If you had the needle bearing replaced with the bushing yes they had to pull the CV shaft out all the way.
So with the wheels still on the ground you loosen the 35mm nut and with it still on to protect the CV threads hit that shaft with at least a 3-4 lb metal sledge and it will move.
That big nut was torqued on to near 200ft-lbs or air wrench or by a guy standing on the breaker bar like DIY guys do as no 200 ft-lb torque wrench!
When doing the CV shaft removal the tierod was left on but much easier if the swaybar link unbolted (that nut was hard to remove as shaft rotates).

The hub/nut cap edges can be straightened with some pliers or channel locks and when reinstalling I put some Permatex on to ensure a good seal - can't see it after wheels on.
Watch out for the rear of the hub as there is a metal flange/lip that the CV fits into and if the CV was pulled it also gets bent (but part of a new hub if doing them).

Complete bearing assembly is easy way to go.
On a 15 why a new hub do you have close to 100k on it?

ECGS removal tool only works with the inserted piece in the correct direction and even then it's a tight fit. Their install tool worked well and also their seal tool as that is a pain to pound in due to access.

No alignment normally required unless you did control arms or changed the front shock/spring assembly but that must have been done after your lift already.
As for the vibes there are a ton of posts on that issue especially after a lift so good luck. If front was over 2" lift the UCA may have to be aftermarket.

 

You can absolutely leave the CV attached to the wheel hub and still remove the other end from the diff. Multiple videos on YT, and I know because I did it myself. Honestly after finding that out I wondered why one would bother removing it completely, especially if you already have much of the suspension apart anyway allowing the hub to rotate out, which is what allows CV removal from just the diff. There’s also a benefit in that you don’t need a second set of hands to hold the CV when you remove and reinstall.

There are tons of posts and threads on here where members had to grind down the bearing removal tool for it to fit. I can guarantee you mine did not and I didn’t have the equipment or desire to grind it. I don’t think they’re all coming out of ECGS manufactured to the same spec so your experience can vary from anyone else’s.

As for the nut cap I would much rather reinstall new than try to repair it. Cheap part.

I have 80K on the truck. I guess you wouldn’t fully know the condition of the hub until you got to it and even removed it. Plus, then you have to take that hub to get the bearing pressed in, in a vehicle other than the truck that’s now immobile. I’m sometimes willing to spend more money to make a job simpler, and depending on the cost of purchasing a complete assembly rather than just the bearing, that might be entirely worth it to me. Especially in terms of the cost of time.

 

Im sure you've seen the thread by 05Taco4x4 on here?

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/wheel-bearings-hubs-press-service-4x4-6-lug-2wd.537080/

 

I have but I’d kind of forgotten about it. Thanks for the reminder, will consider that route.

 

You definitely can't feel the hub with the CV axle & brakes still on, unless it's totally thrashed. I've actually got mine apart as we speak to do a LBJ & hopefully ECGS bushing, and decided to throw in the bearing I had built up.

For reference, I'm at >155k, about 30k of that on 32s, I'm about 99.99% sure I just pulled the knuckle apart for the first time, and... my left bearing felt a little dry. Not bad, just kinda dry. BTW, you can pre-build your own bearing easy-peasy, as long as you're not stuck on having the actual hub be OE (if so, you need a donor to disassemble for the hub, which is what my old one now is)... new bearing, new outer seal, 4 new bolts from Toyota, put the seal on the outer lip of the bearing, put the bolts in, and mash together. TBH you could probably do it with a long, hardened bolt or allthread, and some nuts & washers, if you don't wanna mess with a press. (I have easy access to bum a press, so that's what I did) From there, you'll want the O-ring that goes on the back of the bearing, and the knuckle/inner seal (neither of which you need to have to assemble the bearing, the seal doesn't even touch the bearing)

 

If you post nicely in your regional thread, maybe a local TW member can help you with install. It’s not too technical a job, but it can be hampered if you have lots of rust. Offer lots of beer, but don't drink while working. I am on my third set of wheel bearings. I have about 40K on DuraGo bearings and hubs. They sell them assembled but I got individual pieces as I have a press.

 

I have a few friends who could help me; I’m not at all intimidated by the job. But the possibility of not being able to get the CV out as well as having to deal with grinding down some rusted surfaces has me likely taking this job in to a shop. The truck also does pull a tad and even if this job doesn’t require an alignment I’ll still get one for this reason. Also a good opportunity for a tire rotation that’s due.

Mainly I started this thread to see if I was crazy to let the dealer do this at the price they quoted, versus a less expensive independent shop.

 

What are they doing for $800? If it's all OE parts, that's only mildly wack these days.

If they're slapping together aftermarket parts, not much point besides they'll hopefully know & have the ancillary parts, and not get this naked bearing & be all "uh, what do?" like I've seen some shops do. You could solve that most places with a conversation and/or friendly parts list to a service writer. And if they're going to slap in a pre-assembled unit, there's really no point (especially since IMO all the aftermarket assemblies are lacking in quality)

 

I forget the exact breakdown but my best recollection is $350 parts, whatever 3 hours labor comes to, plus tax. I’d be really surprised if $350 wasn’t for OEM parts but I will definitely ask.

 

There is not much to remove to see if the CV shaft can be pushed out of the hub. Once the axle nut is removed, use a dead blow hammer to break free the axle by hammering inward. Once free the shaft should slide inward about an inch and a half. If that don't do it, try a punch that fits in the dent at the end of the shaft.

 

How did you like those assemblies?