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Wheel studs are too short! What to do....

Discussion in 'Wheels & Tires' started by KPT, Oct 24, 2010.

  1. river rat 69

    river rat 69 Well-Known Member

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    NO Chrome,3" NFab's steps,TRD skid,Wet okie's.011 grill, k&n,5100's,All this comes right off when the old lady says let's go get a NEW ONE!!!
    Had to pull tow my travel trailer 5 mi in town to a RV dealer for some work.. When I got back 1 lug and stud was gone on the D.S.rear, looked at the P.S.rear also one missing:eek:... this is #3&4 of the broke studs so Im done with stock studs. Looking for someone who knows what is the longest I can go on the studs just changing the studs only.. Thanks,Jim
     
  2. TeamLombardo

    TeamLombardo WE'VE LANDED ON THE MOON!

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    WTMF?! Why they hell did the studs break off? Did you recently have the wheels off the truck? Is it possible that you or someone else improperly torqued them down when the wheels were put back on?

    I keep reading about these damn studs breaking off. I remove my wheels often and am afraid that the constant torquing of the lugs will eventually weaken my shit.
     
  3. KPT

    KPT [OP] sees what you did there.

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    I don't know the answer. Sorry Jim.
     
  4. river rat 69

    river rat 69 Well-Known Member

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    NO Chrome,3" NFab's steps,TRD skid,Wet okie's.011 grill, k&n,5100's,All this comes right off when the old lady says let's go get a NEW ONE!!!
    ^^^^Not this from the tire and wheel man^^^^:smash::boom:
     
  5. TeamLombardo

    TeamLombardo WE'VE LANDED ON THE MOON!

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    LOL
     
  6. river rat 69

    river rat 69 Well-Known Member

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    NO Chrome,3" NFab's steps,TRD skid,Wet okie's.011 grill, k&n,5100's,All this comes right off when the old lady says let's go get a NEW ONE!!!
    Stock rear studs are,1.736 in. ...Front's are 1.575 in. Next size up are 2.165in.---2.34in.---2.6in,,,, The last I know are too long for stock wheels..
     
  7. TeamLombardo

    TeamLombardo WE'VE LANDED ON THE MOON!

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    Where did you get this info from? for the stock lengths that is.
     
  8. river rat 69

    river rat 69 Well-Known Member

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    NO Chrome,3" NFab's steps,TRD skid,Wet okie's.011 grill, k&n,5100's,All this comes right off when the old lady says let's go get a NEW ONE!!!
    First post,, This thread under,, Hunt4Steve
     
  9. Desert Drifter

    Desert Drifter Well-Known Member

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    Icon MT suspension, Pelfreybuilt front bumper, Relentless skids, Avid sliders, Avid custom rack. Pelfreybilt HC Rear bumper.
    If you are going to replace wheel studs check out BILDON for some good hardened wheel studs. I run these on my BMW (to replace the factory wheel bolts) and they are good strong items. Factory studs work fin on my Tacoma (so far).
     
  10. nimrod712

    nimrod712 Well-Known Member

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    Those of you that are running the "Matrix studs"- any issues? Running them on all 4 corners? I'm just curious if they would be too long for the rear wheels...
     
  11. Wicked 2007

    Wicked 2007 Well-Known Member

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    Mine are working out fine. No issues. Running 16x8 rims with 35" tires
     
  12. DaveSmith

    DaveSmith Active Member

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    I was pulling out of my paved driveway this evening and my passenger front wheel came off. All 6 studs sheared off. Tires were last rotated by the dealer 200 miles ago? I'll post details on my after market tires, wheels, lugs and stock studs along with pics ASAP. After reading this thread I'm going to replace all the studs, all the lugs and check the torque on a monthly basis and especially after the dealer does anything. This could have been bad!
     
  13. barbaricroots187

    barbaricroots187 Rather die alive than live dead.

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    BFG KM2 33's, 3 in lift, bilstein 5100s in Rancho coils, Pro Comp AAL, diff and sway bar drop kit, kartec cv boots, URD short shifter, Flowmaster Series 10 muffler, herculiner sides, bumpers, and canopy, K&N Intake, CS 144 Alternator swap, Big 3 upgrade, 04 Matrix wheel studs, Alpine CDA-9886, 2 alpine 10's type R's, 2 amps, 4 infinity kappa perfected, 10 farad cap.
    I put 04 Matrix studs on my 96 and so far so good. Only issue is the fronts didn't sink in the way the rear's did. I'm going to pull the front back apart and see if the sank after I torqued the wheel on. I ordered mine from rockauto.com for 62 bucks shipped for Dormans. After I ordered I realized I could have ordered 2 packs of 10 then 4 individual. Would have been cheaper. Great site by the way. I ordered my CS 144 alternator through them for 83 bucks shipped. That's the 140 amp. That install went really well too.

    Update on this: LOL! Don't do what I did and use the same Matrix studs you use on the front for the rear. The "teeth" toward the base of the stud is not long enough and the base is also not quite wide enough to keep these things from slipping forever. I had them in for only a few months and found 3 out of 6 studs per side slipping (When I torqued down on the lug nut the stud would spin even though it was fully seated). I went down to O Reilly's and got some Dorman stock ones and installed those. The fronts are really the big problem anyway when you're talking about this mod.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2013
  14. Wishbone Runner

    Wishbone Runner Because 4R

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    • 04 SR5 V6 • King/Camburg/Icon/Metal Tech • 16" MT Classic Lock • Hankook RT03 295/75/16 • Shrockworks Sliders • RCI Skids • Hella 4000
    I replaced the front wheel studs with the Dorman ones that are a half inch or so longer, worked out great!

    123autoparts.com #610-463

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  15. asus611

    asus611 Well-Known Member

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    Looks great ! What kind of lug nuts are those?
     
  16. Taco No Baka

    Taco No Baka Interco Tire Snob

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    Thanks! This is exactly what I was looking for! Man, so simple...Toyota Matrix wheel studs...who'd a'thunk?
     
  17. KevinsTaco

    KevinsTaco Member

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    I had this same issue. I went offroading once i got new wheels put on and the studs were to short and they didnt say anything just shoved them on there. So they replaced them with the studs that come on a TX baja tacoma and those are slightly longer and they are the perfect length for what i needed
     
  18. Taco No Baka

    Taco No Baka Interco Tire Snob

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    Okay, my studs came in yesterday and I knocked this out this morning. Here's how it went:

    Here's what I started with. I'm running Procomp Series 97 15x8 wheels with 3.75" BS. I had to get .25" wheel spacers from Wheeler's for these wheels to clear the brake caliper. In retrospect, I should have gotten the wheels from Wheeler's as well, but I wanted 3.75" BS and Wheeler's only had 4" BS in 15x8s. These probably would have been fine, but I wanted to run 33x13.50 R15 Super Swamper LTBs and I thought I would need the extra BS to clear the UCA. Anyway, on with the mod...

    [​IMG]

    So after removing the tire, I removed the brake caliper and hung it from the UCA with a piece of .032 safety wire. Then I removed the brake rotor.

    [​IMG]

    To get the old wheel studs out, I used a rivet gun/air hammer with a flush set milled flat. Here you see the difference in length. It's actually more than the .5" everyone has been saying. The new stud is 15mm longer. That's a little bit over 9/16", roughly 19/32". This length is in the shank area, so if you aren't running wheel spacers or thick wheels, be careful that you can tighten the lug nuts down all the way, especially if your spare isn't on the same type of wheel as your regular tires are. On mine, the shank stuck through the wheel spacer, but the wheel was thick enough for this not to be a problem.

    [​IMG]

    Because of their length, the new wheel studs require a lot more room to install. Luckily, Toyota was kind enough to provide a spot to accommodate this on my 1st Gen. There is a dimple in about the 11 o'clock (driver's side. 1 o'clock on the passenger) position in the dust shield that allows ample clearance to slip the longer stud through. Not certain if it's there on a 2nd Gen.

    [​IMG]

    To press the stud in, a previous poster suggested using a ball joint press. This is probably healthier for the stud, I guess, but for me, it seemed like there was a bigger PITA getting all that junk aligned. I just used a couple of old nuts that were big enough to slip over the stud and an old lug nut. I tightened it down with my impact until the head of the stud pulled down against the hub flange. My impact was only rated at 75 or 80 ft-lbs @ 90psi when it was new. It's been badly abused so it's doubtful that it would even produce that these days. Anyway, factory torque calls out for 83 ft-lbs on the lug nuts, so I'm fairly confident the studs can take the stress of using the lug nuts to pull them in.

    [​IMG]

    And that's the finished product. Much safer. Be careful that your lug nuts don't bottom out before tightening the wheel down though. Mine are close, but I hand tightened one down on a new stud and it only had about 2 threads exposed when it bottomed out so they should be okay.

    Thanks again to the OP for providing us with this important fix!
     
  19. Dragons Taco

    Dragons Taco Well-Known Member

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    Can ya spell Tonneau
    No Baka ,
    Nice job on your write up. Good info.
    ++ on making sure your lugs don't bottom out on the stud before giving enough clamping pressure. Check your wheel lug wholes for signs of being rounded out or the stud from being grooved by the wheel. I lost a wheel @ 35mph because my wheel was shifting enough to wear grooves in the studs until they broke. Not on a Taco!
     
  20. Taco No Baka

    Taco No Baka Interco Tire Snob

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    Thanks! Hope it helps someone out. TW has been a gold mine of information for me, so it'd be nice to give back. :D
     
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