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Wheel Well Rust Repair

Discussion in '1st Gen. Tacomas (1995-2004)' started by Chopchop, Jan 28, 2018.

  1. Jan 30, 2018 at 5:58 PM
    #21
    OnHartung'sRoad

    OnHartung'sRoad -So glad I didn't take the other...

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    Somewhere in the Mojave Desert...
    Vehicle:
    2017 Tacoma OR 4x4 (formerly a 1998 SR5 PU, 2002 OR 4x4, 1995 4x4 4Runner, 1985 4x4 Toy PU) ... and RIP’s (rust in pieces) to a Bronco II 4x4 & S10 Blazer 4x4
    Would a M416 trailer bed fit on it? That would be a less expensive expedition style bed than the AT trailer shown in the previous post...
     
  2. Jan 30, 2018 at 6:05 PM
    #22
    Itchyfeet

    Itchyfeet Well-Known Member

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    Ho Lee Fuk I just gave a way a bed that had a very small rusted area in a floor seam that looked better than this. It had zero rust in the sides.

    The beds of these trucks are really prone to rusting in the floor bed seams. If you look under where the floor joins the inner fender Toyota cheaped out and never applied seam sealer they just relied on the undercoat/schultz coating which had gaps exposing where the panels were spot welded together. The weird part is they applied seam sealer to the top only (finish side)

    They also rust behind the outsider bedside stay that's centerline with the wheel well as you'll notice in this truck the stay is rotted away. Flares or not this stay gets packed with mud and road piss and just festers
     
  3. Jan 30, 2018 at 6:39 PM
    #23
    Chopchop

    Chopchop [OP] Active Member

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    Bartmaster, no not exactly. They say the frame was replaced in 2011 so it is not eligible for frame replacement.

    I inspected the frame today and it is pretty solid, but the salted roads if the northeast have taken a toll on it. All of the parts underneath show marked compromise.

    I’ve been working on the emergency brake. Big problem there not so much corrosion, but they sprayed the undercoating material all over it and that gummed it up so bad.

    I’ve got my hands full getting issues resolved due to the salt and the undercoating.
     
    BartMaster1234 likes this.
  4. Jan 30, 2018 at 6:48 PM
    #24
    Chopchop

    Chopchop [OP] Active Member

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    Considering a utility bed, but if anyone has a bed that will fit like itchyfeet, I would really like to talk to you.

    Thanks again for the ideas and suggestions.

    Here’s some pics of my frame I took today.B7B51AC9-4072-47ED-8911-B2A51E7CB59A.jpgD5ED30DF-2B4F-4D6E-96CE-95B51C50BBF0.jpg

    BE7DE762-5CF7-4999-A78F-392993C2FBC9.jpg
     
  5. Jan 30, 2018 at 7:01 PM
    #25
    Chopchop

    Chopchop [OP] Active Member

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    M416 tub might be a good option?

    Thanks for the suggestion.
     
  6. Jan 30, 2018 at 7:43 PM
    #26
    OnHartung'sRoad

    OnHartung'sRoad -So glad I didn't take the other...

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    Somewhere in the Mojave Desert...
    Vehicle:
    2017 Tacoma OR 4x4 (formerly a 1998 SR5 PU, 2002 OR 4x4, 1995 4x4 4Runner, 1985 4x4 Toy PU) ... and RIP’s (rust in pieces) to a Bronco II 4x4 & S10 Blazer 4x4
    Not sure of the size, but something from surplus sales like it may work out nicely.

    That frame looks like it came from the Titanic, you guys go through a lot of maintenance on your older vehicles back east. We take used cars almost for granted out here.
     
  7. Jan 30, 2018 at 7:49 PM
    #27
    Itchyfeet

    Itchyfeet Well-Known Member

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    Given the state of the frame IMO that's a goner
     
    Coot83 likes this.
  8. Jan 30, 2018 at 7:50 PM
    #28
    Chopchop

    Chopchop [OP] Active Member

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    OnHartung'sRoad.... your observation is consistent with my brother...He flew from Lubbock, TX with me to Philadelphia to pick up this Tacoma... We drove it back to Texas over 2200 miles without a dealer's tag or inspection sticker...and were never stopped...truck ran perfect...I think my luck may be running out though as I contemplate what to do about the rust... we don't have rust on our frames out here in West Texas either...but lots of dust...
     
  9. Jan 30, 2018 at 8:02 PM
    #29
    ClevSix

    ClevSix Well-Known Member

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    Suspension, 33s, some armor... Rust, Gray wire and 2Low, and more. T4r is stock.
    @Itchyfeet Yee of little faith, that frame is in need of some love but it isn't that bad.

    OP, look up a few frame repair threads on here. There is a ton of info on the subject. If you're any good with a grinder and welder you'll be just fine. Just don't let it go untreated for very long.
     
    WOODEX M.E. likes this.
  10. Jan 31, 2018 at 4:33 AM
    #30
    Coot83

    Coot83 DORKEL NATION

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    TC 3.5 LT, RCV axles, Demello sliders, BD light bar/fogs, LP6, DMZ rear, SOS skids, custom bumper, King 16" triples, Locked-on hydro rear bumps...
    Ho lee chet! I think its seriously time to list it or part it out, I wouldn't want to drive that more than I needed to.

    Good luck with it.
     
  11. Jan 31, 2018 at 10:16 AM
    #31
    OnHartung'sRoad

    OnHartung'sRoad -So glad I didn't take the other...

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    Somewhere in the Mojave Desert...
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    2017 Tacoma OR 4x4 (formerly a 1998 SR5 PU, 2002 OR 4x4, 1995 4x4 4Runner, 1985 4x4 Toy PU) ... and RIP’s (rust in pieces) to a Bronco II 4x4 & S10 Blazer 4x4
    Sorry about your truck, there’s a nice taco under all that if you are up to the project. If you are still contemplating an alternate bed, maybe one like this? You might find a good one from this site closer to your neck of the woods too.

    http://www.govplanet.com/jsp/s/search.ips

    Current bid opening price $175:


    EFF3E9BB-4C5B-49D6-8716-BB68AC44DFE1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2018
  12. Jan 31, 2018 at 2:30 PM
    #32
    onakat

    onakat Well-Known Member

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    You'll need to scrape off that old undercoat as it is junk (the toyota undercoat was just a bandaid, btw). It has dried and is now cracked and lets moisture and crap get underneath it, trapping it and making the frame rust even faster.

    You have to remove it all and remove all the loose rust (power washer and wire brush should do it). Then you'll see the whole extent of rust damage on the frame, giving you a better idea of the situation and what would need repairs. You'll also have to clean the inside of the frame, as it rusts from the inside too

    After that, you'll have to treat the frame with a rust killer/converter, then repaint it (optional) and grease it. Even if you are in texas, in a dry warm climate, you should rustproof it both inside and out, to not give rust a chance to worsen and spread further
     
  13. Feb 2, 2018 at 4:56 PM
    #33
    Chopchop

    Chopchop [OP] Active Member

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    I agree...I still think the truck is worth the effort. We have replaced one fender so far and it is going pretty good.

    I might need some coaching on cleaning out the inside of the frame. I’ll do some looking on the forum.

    What a tremendous resource. I am very pleased to interact with fellow Tacoma affectionados.
     
  14. Feb 2, 2018 at 5:15 PM
    #34
    ghs57

    ghs57 Well-Known Member

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    Chops
    Catskill Mts. NY
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    Pretty much stock right now

    So, you're saying that this is a replaced frame? That's not encouraging to anyone with a replaced frame.

    I've not seen a bed in that condition around here. Even mine's not that bad. Actually, looks very good in comparison. Don't know what they use on the roads in Philly, but glad they don't use it here. Looking forward to see how this comes out.
     
  15. Feb 2, 2018 at 5:17 PM
    #35
    Chopchop

    Chopchop [OP] Active Member

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    Here’s where I am at this point

    CD6190EF-265A-4E44-B975-5F4E0D74F9B6.jpg
    DA05B924-94B4-4722-8639-0B9EA62E8BFE.jpg
     
  16. Feb 2, 2018 at 6:29 PM
    #36
    85GT 79FJ40

    85GT 79FJ40 Well-Known Member

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    I did that same repair panel on mine a few months back. Haven't taken the flare off the other side yet but there's a little bubbling around the flare so I suspect I'll be doing that one too. And fixing spots on the top corners of the windshield, putting on a new driver's fender, a new tailgate, maybe a driver's door, then respraying the whole truck. Project creep at it's best.

    I love the comments about it being a total goner. Apparently some people have never lived where they use road salt. I would treat the frame for sure though. Mine got a new one in 2012 and it was already a little rusty on the welds when I got it last summer. Cleaned it all up, painted it all, and fluid filmed the crap out of it inside and out.
     
  17. Feb 2, 2018 at 8:19 PM
    #37
    INSAYN

    INSAYN Well-Known Member

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    DIY Fabricobbler.

    Are you welding with MIG flux core or stick? That doesn't look like normal 75/25 MIG, and obviously not TIG.
     
  18. Feb 2, 2018 at 8:21 PM
    #38
    Chopchop

    Chopchop [OP] Active Member

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    It's a welder purchased from Harbor Freight on special. Flux core set on low power and slow feed. Just got started, but the spot welds went good.
     
  19. Feb 2, 2018 at 10:10 PM
    #39
    INSAYN

    INSAYN Well-Known Member

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    DIY Fabricobbler.

    Props to you for making a go at it. :thumbsup:

    Hope it works out for you and keep the warping, or burn through down to a minimum. It's hard enough to do body work with the cleaner 75/25 mix MIG on super low settings. I can't imagine attempting it with the much dirtier flux process.
     
  20. Feb 3, 2018 at 6:51 AM
    #40
    Chopchop

    Chopchop [OP] Active Member

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    Not that familiar with mig welding. I’ll do some research. Thanks for your interest and comments.
     

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