"Wheeler's Anonymous"

Yes! Definitely drain the diff. It WILL get messy.

In my experience, it's easier to do a one time purchase of napa golds at about $130 each instead of dealing with the mess of a new boot. The golds have a nice warranty.

 

Just got back from Big Bear. Went to Gold Mountain.

 

Sorry lovin it's a sport. No factory e-locker

 

And for good measure, a failed attempt.

I have an intake duct that's broken and held together with duct tape so I have a leak after the MAF, and power dies when I need it most. You can hear when it starts to struggle, and that's with the throttle wide open.

 

Leaving for rowher/ Texas canyon in 20.

 

I might go to Azusa Canyon to grill burgers and watch people crash with my gf today if anybody wants to tag along. Nothing for sure, just a lazy Sunday.

 

only last 2 hours. High 30s with 20mph winds. Eefffff that. Saw a white dcsb taco with mesh grill and some other stuff throw up the horns on the way out. I forgot why I never go to rowher, too damn rocky

 

Replace the axle with the ap rcb axle and be done with it. Damn expensive but not a yolk. Way more articulation and stronger. Its what ill do the sane

 

I went with the O'Reilly specials. $79 completely new axle with new cv's and boots. I will be looking into the AP RCB axle though. I will be rebuilding my old cv axles to keep as a spare set. Thank you all for the suggestions and help!

 

I'd put your oem axle back in once you rebuild it and use the orielly axle as your spare. Those $100 specially axles aren't nearly as reliable as oem

 

Or get 934s


I'm kidding before I get flamed

 

I respect you and I listen when you talk. I look forward to talking to you further on this. I have a trillion questions.

 

If you search through REALLY old threads from a long time ago you'll find that OEM are the most reliable. At one time NAPA may have used the same source for their house brand CVs as Toyota, but that may have changed. Safest choice for CVs is Toyota OEM, historically they are the strongest, heard a lot of stories of non-OEM failures with just light offroading. Thats why you never hear a lot about people using anything other then OEM, anything else has a terrible failure rate.

 

Ed, I've built CV axles before (NOTE: car NOT truck... but in the end, it is all pretty much the same... half shafts are half shafts) and it is a very, VERY MESSY job!!! Just look for pitting on the rollers and be mindful of how it is taken apart... I'm TELLING YOU from experience!!! The half shaft I took apart had a particular spacer/washer/seperator piece that LOOKS like it could go in any direction, but when in fact, if you took a closer look, it did NOT!!! It only went in one way!!! Anyways, that was years ago on a Dodge that I had. All I'm saying is just make sure to look for pitting, grease the hell out of the rollers and be mindful of how it came apart in the first place. Pretty obvious statement, I know, just say'n bro!!!

They should just slide right out as well??? The only hard part for me was to get that damn thing to stay in while I was fighting 20trillion other things hanging around the F'N suspension and what not, LMAO!!! Again, it was for a Dodge car though. I would think a truck would be very, very similar in nature?!

I had to do it!!! LOL!!! PLEASE don't hit me Harley, because you are ONE BIG DUDE!!! LMAO!!!

 

He'd knock you across the room

 

"F" dude, his size, through the F'N brick wall into the next FEW ROOMS OVER, LOL!!!

I'd be "eating" dinner through a coffee straw the rest of my life!!!

 

Oh geeze I'm gentle