1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Wheeling with tire chains?

Discussion in 'Off-Roading & Trails' started by Badwin45, Aug 3, 2010.

  1. Aug 3, 2010 at 3:02 PM
    #1
    Badwin45

    Badwin45 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2010
    Member:
    #39905
    Messages:
    251
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    OKC
    Vehicle:
    '10 DC 4x4 & '00 Pre-Runner
    Aries 4" Oval step tubes, Brute Force Fab rear bumper, Weathertech digifit floor liners.
    Since I do 95% of my driving on pavement and don't generally go off-road except when hunting, I've decided on the Hankook Dynapro ATM's for my next set of tires. Occasionally though, I need to drive some muddy county roads to get where I'm going. The surface of these roads are pretty solid except that the top 1"-3" are slimy clay after rains over 1". The ditches on either side get deep though and I'd like some extra traction to help keep me out of them if possible. Speed on these roads is 25 mph when dry and obviously less when wet. Will tire chains serve my needs here?

    Thinking about these:
    http://www.tirechain.com/DIAMONDSTYLECARCHAINS.htm
     
  2. Aug 6, 2010 at 7:56 PM
    #2
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2008
    Member:
    #11062
    Messages:
    1,298
    Gender:
    Male
    Reno, NV
    Vehicle:
    2009 Tacoma TRD OR Access Cab
    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    If you're up for the hassle chains will help in that type of mud. I've used some on a UTV before in similar mud-type, it was night and day once the chains were on. Traction went from 0 without chains, to 80% w/chains.

    Those chains in your link look a bit tame for off-road chains; that type of chain is fairly specific for traction on snow/ice, kinda weak for trails.

    You should look into something a little beefier, thicker chain, to help get through that top layer better. Those smaller chains look like they will just load up real quick or break.
     
  3. Aug 6, 2010 at 10:23 PM
    #3
    Badwin45

    Badwin45 [OP] Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2010
    Member:
    #39905
    Messages:
    251
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Chris
    OKC
    Vehicle:
    '10 DC 4x4 & '00 Pre-Runner
    Aries 4" Oval step tubes, Brute Force Fab rear bumper, Weathertech digifit floor liners.
    Thanks guys. I called the vendor and they were very helpful. The did say that the diamond pattern chains are too weak for mud use and to go with the heavier round-twisted link or square link chains. I'm going to try to have a set of the square links before hunting season hits.
     
  4. Aug 8, 2010 at 5:47 PM
    #4
    6spdtaco

    6spdtaco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2010
    Member:
    #32654
    Messages:
    603
    Gender:
    Male
    VT
    Vehicle:
    Taco
    I've used chains pretty extensively. Mostly in snow/ice, but also in mud. If you want real traction get some v-bar chains. Also carry with you 6-8 bunjee cords(3-4) per wheel. The more the better. Don't rely on the ones that come with the chains. Get the heavy duty rubber ones. By getting the chains as tight as possible with the bunjees, you can go faster without them moving themselves or hitting your wheel wells. Beware of damage though, I have broken a chain at high wheel speeds while stuck and the chain rapped itself around my axle and tore my ABS all to hell about 7 years ago. Expensive fix. There is still a single chain link hooked on a brake line on that vehicle that I've never bothered cutting off. I prefer only two chains for most applications, but carry 4 in my truck. Chaining the rear wheels is best for overall traction, and GREAT if you have a locker. Actual driving speeds with "real" tire chains is very limited and I wouldn't recommend much more than 15-20 mph. If you get less aggressive chains the speeds can be higher. You shouldn't need chains if you can drive that fast though.
     
  5. Aug 8, 2010 at 9:09 PM
    #5
    nvdeserted

    nvdeserted Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2008
    Member:
    #11062
    Messages:
    1,298
    Gender:
    Male
    Reno, NV
    Vehicle:
    2009 Tacoma TRD OR Access Cab
    Electric Dynolock tailgate, TrailGear Slides, , 285/75-16 Yoko Geolanders on Wheelers Type B, SAW 2.0 front and back, Camburg b/j UCA, 1.5" AAL, Ubolt flip, ARB bump.
    6spd reminds me of a good point, if your tires are close to rubbing, or already rub, don't even think about putting chains on the front wheels: when your front suspension is compressed or the wheels are turn-locked the chains will just rip out inner fenders/flares/etc.

    If you're running 32s or smaller you should be fine. and you'll be fine on the rears with up to a 33 probably.

    Also take the extra effort to readjust/retighten the chains often. Like 6spd said, if a chain comes off it can F S up!
     

Products Discussed in

To Top